From afar, the view is stunning. Up close? A massive traffic jam at the entrance to the Mamilla parking lot, horns blaring and people shouting. The air grows colder, marking the start of a true winter day. Mountain air “clear as wine,” with a side of city noise. Welcome to Jerusalem.
The goal was simple: a quick 24-hour getaway, not too far from home but still offering that vacation feeling. And what better candidate than Israel’s capital?
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The view from Notre Dame Cathedral
(Photo: Nily Levin)
Well, full disclosure, the writer of these lines has never been especially fond of Jerusalem. In the long-standing rivalry with Tel Aviv, the city by the sea has always won. No mountains, no curfews, and the lights never go out. Still, Jerusalem has its own kind of magic — one that few cities in the world can rival.
To experience that magic properly, you’ll want to settle in and ditch the car. (There’s a line to exit the parking lot anyway.) Enter Nucha, a new adults-only boutique hotel opened by the Fattal chain in the heart of the capital. Its crown jewel? The rooftop, with sweeping views. But more on that later — first, the location.
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Nucha Hotel
(Photo: Aya Ben Ezri)
Nucha Hotel is on Ben Sira Street, near Independence Park, within walking distance of Ben Yehuda Street, Zion Square, Mamilla, the Old City and the Machane Yehuda market. That’s a serious advantage. Whether it’s the charming Nahalat Shiva streets, the colorful market or the alleyways of the Old City, everything is within reach. Looking for a lively bar, a romantic dinner or just a bowl of hot soup? It’s all nearby.
The hotel is for adults only, which might explain the surprisingly calm atmosphere, even on a packed Thursday. There’s a polished coffee station in the lobby (yes, with cookies), a small gym two floors down and a spa offering treatments. The rooms are compact but pleasant, clean and well-kept. November rates range from about 1,000 to 1,400 shekels per night. The staff are warm and welcoming — Jerusalemites really are nice.
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Hotel room
(Photo: Aya Ben Ezri)
But the hotel’s highlight is the rooftop bar, open even now, though the pool sits empty for the winter. The view of Jerusalem’s rooftops and the impressive kosher cocktail bar fill the void. The vibe strikes a rare balance: appealing to both a traditional, older crowd and younger guests. There’s a DJ, creative drinks, and that elusive quality every great bar needs — atmosphere. It’s not exactly Tel Avivian; it’s distinctly Jerusalemite. One bartender, an ultra-Orthodox man, expertly prepares a small, flawless dish, while another chats in fluent English with guests before offering a smoky cocktail.
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The rooftop pool will open when summer returns
(Photo: Aya Ben Ezri)
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The hotel bar
(Photo: Aya Ben Ezri)
On dry evenings, guests can sit outside with a drink, snacks and a view, breathing in that crisp air again. The shift manager explains their vision: “We wanted a kosher place that still has energy—something usually only found in secular Jerusalem.” Mission accomplished.
The hotel’s full restaurant hasn’t opened yet (it’s expected soon), but the bar menu is tempting. Breakfast is served in the restaurant space, and a variety of eateries are just steps away. Word has it that Chef Assaf Granit’s new grill house nearby is worth the visit.
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Drinks and snacks at the bar
(Photo: Nily Levin)
Yes, a Jerusalem vacation could be all about food, but that would be a missed opportunity. For all its tensions, the city is stunning. Nucha’s location allows you to head in at least two directions, both within a 10- to 20-minute walk: toward the Old City or down Jaffa Street to the market.
Heading toward the Old City, a stop at Notre Dame of Jerusalem is worthwhile. Though primarily a hotel, the ground floor houses a beautiful church and the fourth-floor terrace offers a 360-degree view of the area, including the city walls, the Tower of David, the Dome of the Rock and church spires. Entry costs 15 shekels and is well worth it.
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The view from Notre Dame
(Photo: Nily Levin)
From there, descend straight into the Christian Quarter. It’s a step into another world, like traveling abroad. On a rainy Friday morning, the alleyways are quiet, lined with cafés and shops (though not all open, perhaps due to the ongoing “situation”?). The area is spotless, almost like a medieval European town. Kudos to the Jerusalem Municipality — the city is gleaming.
Back in the alleyways, guided tours are a great way to explore the streets and hidden flavors. For lovers of architecture, art or simply beauty, a visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a must. Believed to be the site of Jesus’s crucifixion, burial and resurrection, the ornate, multi-level structure is breathtaking, and packed with worshippers, so be respectful.
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Church of the Holy Sepulchre
(Photo: Sapir Gordo)
The other direction leads from the hotel along Jaffa Street, where the light rail runs and crowds bustle. At Zion Square, artificial grass, seating areas and a public piano invite spontaneous music. A pleasant 20-minute walk brings you to Machane Yehuda Market and its surroundings, a feast for the senses. It’s clean, well-organized and full of energy. Afterward, a stroll back to the hotel for a nap feels just right.
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Machane Yehuda market
(Photo: Nily Levin)
Of course, Jerusalem offers countless other attractions — from the Western Wall and the Israel Museum to the new National Library. Its sites, people, streets and even the light rail make it an ideal urban getaway.
So yes, somewhere between the traffic, the shouting and the church bells, there’s a city that even the most cynical will have to admit: it’s an experience. Just don’t compromise on location.
The writer was a guest of Nucha Hotel.