Most first-time visitors to Lisbon will spend some time in the Alfama neighbourhood. Mostly because it’s home to Castelo Saint Jorge (an ancient fortress that has been pivotal throughout Lisbon’s past). It’s worth a visit to learn the local history but also for the incredible views of the city below. On your way down from the castle, you’ll navigate the cobbled, laundry-draped streets that weave their way up and down the hillside. Trawl through the Feira da Ladra vintage flea market that runs every Tuesday and have dinner at O Velho Eurico, which serves a new-generation Portuguese menu in an old tasca. It’s developed something of a cult following among tourists and locals in recent years for its lively atmosphere, free-flowing pours of Aguardente Bagaceira (a potent Portuguese brandy) and seriously indulgent dishes like chicken hearts and piglet empanadas. It’s an experience you won’t forget. If you can’t get one of the elusive reservations, your options are to queue early and wait a few hours for a second sitting or order bar snacks through the hole in the wall. Everyone around you will enthusiastically agree that it’s worth the wait.
Part of what gives Lisbon its “big little city” feel has to do with its proximity to the beach. Ericeira is a barefoot surf oasis on the Atlantic and only a 45-minute drive away, making it the perfect day trip from the city. The pace change is instant. Start with a pastry at Sourdough Bread Ericeira before joining a surf lesson or going for a clifftop stroll. In town, you’ll find endless independent surf shops and one of my favourite restaurants in Portugal, Costa Fria, with some of the most inventive and delicious plates of seafood I’ve had. From there you can hop from beach to bay along the coast until sunset – the way the sun glows over the Atlantic Ocean is truly something special.
Just across the river from Lisbon’s centre is Calcihas – an old fishing outpost that has now been absorbed into the city limits but still manages to keep its village charm. You can take the commuter ferry across every 15 minutes for a wander or lunch. Ponto Final is famous for its simple seafood staples and that incredible view of the 25 de Abril Bridge. But back in the city, sunset draws the locals out to the riverside. You’ll find people fishing, meeting friends, perching on the wharf with a takeaway beer or spontaneously dancing to live music the whole way along the promenade at Cais do Sodre. There’s a tangible sense of community. I’d be surprised if you weren’t tempted to stay a little longer and join in.
The writer travelled at their own expense.