I can’t quite explain the feeling I got when I entered the sparkling, turquoise waters of the Great Barrier Reef.
People kept saying the moment my eyes met the rainbow swirls of colour and the sculptural intricacy of the coral, I wouldn’t ever forget. A feeling so intense, “it can leave you forever changed”.
I thought they were exaggerating – they were not.
The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest system of coral reefs, mangrove and estuarine environments, and what blew me away was its sheer scale – it covers an area of about 348,700km.
It has a chain of coral reefs about 2300km long, skirting the continental shelf off the coast of Queensland and stretching from just south of the Tropic of Capricorn, towards the coastal waters of Papua New Guinea.
It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981 and I’m embarrassed to say, as an Aussie, I’ve never visited this truly magical spot that’s right on our doorstep.
That all changed during a recent visit this year.
For someone who has never snorkelled before, to have my first experience be on the Great Barrier Reef in Queensland’s north, was truly unforgettable.
I stayed at Crystalbrook Flynn in Cairns (overlooking the water) which is just a 10-minute walk to the Reef Fleet Terminal where we then hopped on the Reef Magic Cruises.
The first thing I explained to staff was that I’m not the greatest swimmer, nor had I snorkelled before.
However, they were quick to reassure me, saying they cater to all swimming abilities and non-swimmers.
I feared we would be jumping into the open ocean from the ferry but instead it was docked at their pontoon, which takes about 90 minutes to reach from the terminal.
The pontoon gives people of all swimming abilities a chance to enter the water at their own pace by the steps provided – something I really appreciated.
Snorkelling also takes place in a sheltered coral lagoon – another plus.
Once we were decked out in our wetsuits and snorkel gear, it was time to see the magic underneath.
I held onto the rails for about 10 minutes until I got used to breathing out of my mouth and was confident enough to let go.
As I let the water slowly guide me, I couldn’t quite comprehend the world beneath me — from all the colourful fish, many I’ve never seen before, to the walls of coral.
I was also lucky enough to see Wally the Giant Maori Wrasse, one of the famous fish of the Great Barrier Reef. He is about 140cm long and weighs about 60-70kg. And let’s just say he’s not shy. Wally swam pretty close to me, showing off his variations of green, purple, blue colours, and his humphead.
I felt this sudden rush of serenity and peace. The world around me was unlike anything I had seen before. I was covered in goosebumps and didn’t want to get out.
I spent almost one hour snorkelling and when I got out the only reason was the cool drop in temperature.
But, it was perfect timing because a delicious array of hot food had just been served.
During this time, I had a quick chat to marine biologist Jemma Packwood who agreed that when people first lay eyes on the reef, it’s an unforgettable moment.
“I’ve been to this reef four days out of the week for the last two years and it’s different every day,” Ms Packwood told me.
“Every time you get in the water, you see something different – the colours are phenomenal, the fish life. It’s absolutely unreal.
“Where we are at right now is called Moore Reef, it’s a reef patch that’s just one of about 2800 reef systems. So if you go North, you’ve got Hastings Reef, Saxon Reef – there’s so, so many. And each reef site is so different.”
She told me there’s often a big misconception that the Great Barrier Reef is dying.
“It’s under a lot of pressure and that’s the best way to describe it. There’s obviously climate change, which is a major pressure and you’ve got things like the crown-of-thorn starfish, which are almost the second biggest disturbance to the Great Barrier Reef,” she said.
“But (the reef) is incredibly resilient, and that’s what should be known as well.”
She said if people see it, they’ll want to protect it.
“Everyone has that natural connection and as soon as you see you want to protect it.”
I overheard many tourists on the boat asking how they can help do their part, so I put the question to Ms Packwood.
She said the type of sunscreen you use is a big help, because sunscreens that aren’t reef safe release pollutants into the water.
“Reef safe sunscreens run through all the tests that aren’t having an influence,” she said.
“You’ve got to remember it’s a whole ecosystem – people think of corals as a big, colourful rock, but they’re an animal, they’re made up of hundreds and hundreds of tiny little animals. “So they can be easily influenced by the pollutants that are going into the water.
“If people can check their sunscreen before they come out, it’s an easy way to protect the reef.”
After I finished up my chat with Ms Packwood, she convinced me to go check out the semi submersible and I am so glad I had enough time to do it. (The day excursion is about five hours).
The sub tour took about half an hour and it’s another great way to see the reef especially if you don’t want to get in the water.
“The pontoon’s incredible because it’s diverse in what it gives,” she told me.
“It allows people to come out and not only see the reef by snorkelling, diving, helmet diving, but it also allows access for those who don’t want to get in the water.
“You’ve got your glass bottom boat tours, semi sub tours, which is incredible – and these tours go further out, away from the lagoon area.”
Be sure to also check out Cairns Aquarium where you can get up close to the species and eco systems of Tropical North Queensland – it’s also the country’s newest aquarium.
If you’re staying at Crystalbrook Flynn (highly recommended), it’s only a seven-minute walk.
In terms of where to eat, the hotel has a great selection otherwise head over to
CC’s Bar & Grill at Crystalbrook Bailey (a five-minute walk) for the most incredible steak and Dundee’s Restaurant On The Waterfront. It offers amazing seafood and stunning water views.
My trip came as new data from Skyscanner reveals Tropical North Queensland is stepping up as the ultimate Winter Sun destination, with three in four Aussies planning a winter getaway closer to home.
Cairns ranked among Skyscanner’s top trending global destinations, placing Tropical North Queensland firmly in the spotlight.
“From reef island hopping and long seafood lunches to rainforest drives and beachside cocktails, Tropical North Queensland is offering many of the experiences travellers seek in Europe, without the jet lag, peak season crowds or rising international travel costs,” Skyscanner travel expert Jarrod Kris said.
This writer travelled to the Great Barrier Reef as a guest of Tourism and Events Queensland