Josh Fry has been cooking at some of Melbourne’s best restaurants for almost two decades. After seven pivotal years working for Andrew McConnell at Cutler, Cumulus Inc and Marion, he took up a role at Fitzroy’s Poodle, where he helped dream up the bologna subs that got the venue through lockdown – and evolved into a permanent offering at Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca. That’s why Tom Sarafian calls him “Melbourne’s king of mortadella”.

Sarafian has conscripted Fry to head the kitchen at Zareh, where he now cures the blushing Armenian bastourma that’s a highlight of the meze plates. As head chef, Fry is also in charge of the custom wood oven and charcoal pit that turns out smoky fish shish, lamb khorovats, and the moreish chicken kebab with toum and pickled green chilli – not to mention the puffy aish baladi that diners swipe through Sarafian’s famous hummus with king prawns and spanner crab. We caught up with Fry to learn where he’s eating and drinking around town. 

Favourite bakery
“A1, always. It’s a tough decision between a tawook wrap or the ful medames with chips for dipping. Sometimes I’ll just get both.”

Go-to breakfast spot
“Walrus. It’s always busy, so be prepared, but I love getting a spot at the bar and starting my day off with a Bloody Mary, Texas toast, bacon and eggs.”

Best place for a drink and snacks
“Bahama Gold. Kit [Iacuzi]’s pizzas are so good, and little snacks from next door are also great. The music, warm fire and vibes are always a good time.” [The Da Paolo pizza residency returns to Bahama Gold on September 18.]

Date-night recommendation
“Osteria Ilaria. It’s a classic and the food is always spot on. If you’re after more of a Lady and the Tramp moment you can head next door to Tipo 00.”

Favourite ice-cream or gelato spot (and what you’re ordering)
“Luther’s. Malt chocolate in a waffle cone with one of their elite choccy-chip cookies for dipping.”

Special occasion restaurant
“Cutler & Co. It’s still one of those restaurants where you know you’re going to eat extremely well and be looked after properly.”

Melbourne’s best banh mi
“N Lee, pork loaf, extra chilli and a Bundaberg ginger beer.”

For dining with a big group
“Pacific House. Big tables, heaps of food, BYO energy and the kind of meal where everyone gets involved.”

Favourite dessert
“The ginger pudding at Bistra. I’ve missed JP’s cooking: the flavours are always turned up to 11, and everything is cooked with so much skill.”

Best solo-dining spot
“Bar Liberty. Sit at the bar, order a few things, have a glass of wine. The list is great, and I’ve always loved the venue from day one.”

For a late-night feed
“Nana Thai. Pork neck, larb and sticky rice, plus the gravy beef soup. Exactly what you want when you’re eating at stupid o’clock.”

Melbourne’s best bread
“Jim’s Greek Tavern, handcrafted in-house from an age-old family recipe. The perfect vessel for mopping up anything and everything.”

A Melbourne restaurant you wish could come back for a night
“312, the Cutler before Cutler. I could never afford it as an apprentice, but that restaurant was inspirational to me and what made me want to work for Andrew [McConnell].”

The venue you’ve visited the most over the years
“Tiny Bar. Zac [Shearer] is cooking some great dishes out of a truly tiny kitchen. It’s like you’re in his living room – good chats and great hospitality.”

Melbourne’s most underrated restaurant
“Chabela, a hidden Mexican gem on High Street, Thornbury. A traditional style of Mexican we don’t see enough of in Melbourne.”

Favourite regional restaurant
“Bar Merenda. [Chefs] Ollie [Edwards] and Bree [Smith] cook amazing and thoughtful food from great suppliers. The space is so intimate and [co-owner] Andy [Ainsworth] and the team always make it a great time.”

Bucket-list restaurant
“Asador Etxebarri. I love restaurants that take great produce and just absolutely nail the fundamentals, and Etxebarri is about as serious as it gets.”