{"id":8948,"date":"2026-05-11T04:55:29","date_gmt":"2026-05-11T04:55:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/8948\/"},"modified":"2026-05-11T04:55:29","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T04:55:29","slug":"ancient-white-wine-variety-reducing-water-bills-and-instilling-hope-for-struggling-australian-industry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/8948\/","title":{"rendered":"Ancient white wine variety reducing water bills and instilling hope for struggling Australian industry"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nestled in an unassuming vineyard in South Australia’s Riverland, an ancient wine grape variety is about to be harvested for the first time.<\/p>\n

It is not only reducing water bills, but reconnecting growers to their Mediterranean roots.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Yianni Koutouzis is choosing to be the “black sheep” of Australia’s largest grape-growing wine region, by trialling the ancient Cypriot variety known as Xynisteri.\u00a0<\/p>\n

It is a crop famous for its thick skin and drought tolerance \u2014 resistant to heatwaves, pests and low-rainfall conditions.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"white<\/p>\n

The Xynisteri crop survived the Riverland’s 49-degree Celsius heatwave in January with little to no burning. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

For a region that has recorded three consecutive years of below-average rainfall and record-breaking heatwave events<\/a>, the drought-tolerant variety has come at the perfect time.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Unlike Mr Koutouzis’s other crops, which need watering every two days, his 800 vines of Xynisteri \u2013 planted three years ago \u2013 can go months without being watered.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“I have my brother and mum saying, ‘Why aren’t you watering your vines?’ and I’m like, ‘We don’t need to,'” he said.<\/p>\n

\"man<\/p>\n

Yianni Koutouzis says the grapes are resilient, just like Riverland farmers. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

“It’s reduced our consumption so much, about 75 per cent less water than our shiraz or chardonnay.”<\/p>\n

With more than 50 years of farming history in his family, it is the first time Mr Koutouzis is growing a crop that connects him to his Greek ancestors.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"white<\/p>\n

In pot trials, Xynisteri’s root structure was found to be three to four times the size of shiraz. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

“It’s a surreal feeling to be able to connect not just to the variety, but also to my family … making wine the way my grandfather and grandmother used to back in the Peloponnese in Greece,” he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“It’s important to keep this Hellenic culture strong, not just in the Riverland, but in Australia as a whole.”\"a<\/p>\n

Yianni’s family has been farming in the Riverland for more than 50 years. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

While Mr Koutouzis prepares to bottle his crop for the first time, the variety is also offering an alternative to an industry in crisis<\/a> at a time when Australia’s climate continues to change.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Ancient origins, modern solutions<\/p>\n

With more than 5,500 years of history, Xynisteri (pronounced zin-uh-steh-ree) originates from Cyprus and was first introduced to Australia in 2018 by researcher Dr Alexander Copper.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"man<\/p>\n

Dr Alexander Copper says we need to “open our eyes and open our minds” to find international varieties that suit our regions. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

After spending multiple years overseas during wine production as well as investigating eastern Mediterranean wine grape varieties <\/a>that could suit Australia’s warming and changing climate, Xynisteri was earmarked as a stand-out variety for South Australian soil.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“In pot trials comparing shiraz and sauvignon blanc to Xynisteri … Xynisteri’s root structure was three to four times the size” he said.<\/p>\n

“We tried to grow it in McLaren Vale but it didn’t like the cold … \u00a0but when we put it [in the Riverland], the combination of the soil and the heat made it grow like crazy.<\/p>\n

“Cyprus and most of the eastern Mediterranean is very limestone-based soil, so it looks very similar to the Riverland.”\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"two<\/p>\n

Yianni Koutouzis is one of two growers in Australia trialling Xynisteri. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

Dr Copper noted some Australian wine regions grow cooler-climate varieties that traditionally require a lot of winter rainfall \u2014 conditions not always reflective of Australia.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“In South Australia [they largely grow] shiraz, cabernet, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, and they’re all French varieties,” he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“With our changing climate those varieties can still perform in places like Victoria, and Tasmania, but [for most of] SA, unless you’ve got good irrigation, we’ve got to start thinking of alternatives.”‘Worrying’ industry and climate<\/p>\n

The future growing season temperature for some parts of South Australia is projected to increase <\/a>by almost two degrees Celsius by 2070.\u00a0<\/p>\n

It is something principal scientist in climate applications with the South Australian Research and Development Institute (SARDI) Dr Peter Hayman has been analysing for decades.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“There’s a bit of a headwind of it being a little bit warmer, which means the grapes will grow quicker and we will use a bit more water,” he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

Dr Peter Hayman says the biggest asset we have in Australia is not the climate record, but the experience of farmers. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

Prior to the Millennium Drought<\/a>, Dr Hayman said perennial horticulture crops (those that live for more than two years) were considered “fairly drought-proof”, as they had reliable water and a fixed allocation.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“We came to realise nothing is more vulnerable to shortages of water than perennial horticulture because it needs water all the time, unlike annual horticulture, where you can pull back and plant less area,” he said. \u00a0<\/p>\n

\"dead<\/p>\n

Dr Peter Hayman says there are many complexities and many solutions to the wine industry. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

In recent years, water security had been flagged as one of the “main concerns” for wine grape growers wanting to produce in the future.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“The biggest worry is that the cost of water relative to the cost of grapes is a challenge because the price people are being offered for grapes is low,” he said.<\/p>\n

Temporary water market prices have more than doubled in the Lower Murray Darling Basin<\/a> in the past 12 months, currently sitting around $400 a megalitre, up from $187, according to water consultancy Riccardo Group.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Along with ballooning water prices, comes wine oversupply and production, which according to Wine Australia exceeded sales in 2024-25<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Loading<\/p>\n

Wine grape prices recently hit historic lows, with some Riverland growers receiving less than $100 a tonne for their grapes<\/a> \u2014 a reality Yianni Koutouzis knows first-hand.<\/p>\n

“We dropped our shiraz to the ground [recently] and mulched it up, basically because there’s no price for that variety,” he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“To watch my mum and my dad cry was absolutely heartbreaking.”\"three<\/p>\n

Yianni Koutouzis’s family has been farming in the Riverland for more than 50 years. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

With farmers diversifying to drought-tolerant crops like Xynisteri, and the federal government’s Future Drought Fund expected to grow to $5 billion by 2028-2029<\/a>, Dr Hayman believed there is still hope.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“It’s great to have alternatives, diversity and looking at different varieties,” he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Barossa bottles for the first time\u00a0<\/p>\n

In South Australia’s Barossa Valley, more than 450 bottles of Xynisteri have been packed for the first time by vignerons Paul and Mara Georgiadis.\u00a0<\/p>\n

While the pair have traditionally produced premium red wine, they have adapted to the Barossa’s changing consumer trends and climate.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“People are drinking a lot more white wine, so we needed to introduce a white variety that actually suits the Barossa Valley, and that’s where Xynisteri has become one of those winners for us,” Paul Georgiadis said.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

The pair hope Xynisteri can reduce water consumption to half a megalitre per hectare for the growing season.\u00a0 (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

“We had 45C weather this year, and not one [grape] got burnt.”<\/p>\n

After planting a 90-vine trial of Xynisteri in 2021, the variety has expanded to more than 600 vines stretching over one acre and become a mainstay on the property.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

The original Xynisteri plantings remain separated and under net, while the expanded crop lies among the vineyard.\u00a0 (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

“I can see the Barossa Valley evolving,” Mr Georgiadis said<\/p>\n

“Shiraz will always have its place, but I think, long term, you’ll see a certain percentage of vines changing.”\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"a<\/p>\n

Xynisteri is comparable to pinot gris and pinot grigio, with tropical flavours and white peach notes.\u00a0 (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

It is change Mr Georgiadis said his Greek family would be proud of.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“I can see my dad, who passed away in 2015, looking down smiling going, ‘Jeez, I wish he did that when I was still there’.”\"two<\/p>\n

Paul and Mara Georgiadis picked 800 kilograms of Xynisteri in its first vinification. (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

More news from regional SALight at the end of the tunnel\u00a0<\/p>\n

For both producers trialling Xynisteri, the growing results have instilled some hope amidst a tough time for Australia’s wine industry.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Back in the Riverland, Yianni Koutouzis said Xynisteri has given him a fresh perspective on the region’s future and growing capabilities.\u00a0<\/p>\n

“It’s given me some hope that there is a light at the end of the tunnel, and there is hope out there for the wine industry,” he said.\"bunch<\/p>\n

Dr Copper says Xynisteri is “not the answer to everyone’s prayers but it’s part of a solution”.\u00a0 (ABC Riverland: Amelia Walters)<\/p>\n

“We’ve got capabilities to grow grapes like Xynisteri that will win those gold medals for wine, and that’s my dream.<\/p>\n

“This is a resilient variety, I’m a resilient person, and we all connect together.”<\/p>\n

Watch ABC TV’s Landline at 12:30pm AEST on Sunday or stream anytime on ABC iview<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Nestled in an unassuming vineyard in South Australia’s Riverland, an ancient wine grape variety is about to be…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":8949,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[10289,22,21,10286,10282,10283,10279,10288,10277,10287,10284,10276,10285,10280,10281,10278,10274,10275],"class_list":{"0":"post-8948","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-australia","8":"tag-alexander-copper","9":"tag-au","10":"tag-austrlia","11":"tag-barossa-valley","12":"tag-drought-resilient-crops","13":"tag-drought-resilient-wine","14":"tag-drought-tolerant","15":"tag-mara-georgiadis","16":"tag-my-climate-view","17":"tag-paul-georgiadis","18":"tag-paulmara-estates","19":"tag-red-wine-oversupply","20":"tag-riverland","21":"tag-south-australia-research-development-institute","22":"tag-south-australian-wine-industry","23":"tag-wine-oversupply","24":"tag-xynisteri","25":"tag-yianni-koutouzis"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8948","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8948"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8948\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8949"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8948"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8948"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/australia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8948"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}