Roasted sprouts, salsa macha, peanuts, candied sesame seeds, cilantro
Photo by kc kratt
Roasted sprouts, salsa macha, peanuts, candied sesame seeds, cilantro; $14 for three
Buffalo is fortunate to have access to quality Mexican food. Some places lean traditional, while others push boundaries. The latter is something I love, and Zina Lapi, owner and executive chef of Casa Azul, does it better than most.
Casa Azul
191 Allen Street, Buffalo
The first time I had it, the brussels sprouts taco blew my socks off. This wildly delicious, complex, and recent menu addition contains roasted sprouts, salsa macha, peanuts, candied sesame seeds, and fresh cilantro, all wrapped in Lapi’s incredible tortillas. Not only was it the first time I’ve had sprouts on a taco, but this vegan masterpiece balances flavors and textures artfully.
Salsa macha is a condiment of dried chiles from Veracruz. The chiles are fried in oil with garlic, nuts, and sesame or pumpkin seeds to create a boldly spiced, nutty sauce. In the brussels sprouts taco, the macha’s smoky creaminess renders the hearty sprouts nearly meat-like. Peanuts add crunch while pushing the nuttiness of the macha even further into the savory realm. Then you’re hit with a pop of sweetness from candied sesame seeds that balance the otherwise earthy and rich taco. Lapi’s housemade tortillas have a slight chew and incredible flavor, while remaining durable enough to ensure your tacos don’t fall apart mid-bite.
Lapi’s ability to reinvent flavor pairings while masterfully balancing every dish on her menu and making everything from scratch is rare, especially in an approachable restaurant in a mid-sized Rust Belt city. Add Casa Azul’s friendly staff, fun atmosphere, great cocktails, and inviting menu that accommodates most dietary restrictions, and it’s easy to see why Casa Azul serves my favorite taco in WNY.