There are endless block versions today, but farmhouse Cheddar, which dates back to the 12th century, suffered as much as any territorial, falling from 3,500 makers pre-First World War to a handful in the 1970s. Like many Somerset farms, Westcombe, now a leading light of the unpasteurised, clothbound Cheddar movement, turned to supplying milk for block Cheddar after the war. It was in the 1990s that Calver’s father, Richard, decided to return to the original cheese, which had been made on the farm since 1879.
On first launch, they struggled to compete with supermarkets on price; “It was a disaster,” says Calver. Now, with the focus on regenerative agriculture, Westcombe and others, including Montgomery’s, Quicke’s and Trethowan’s, are thriving. But theirs are minuscule operations compared with industrial producers. There are two block-Cheddar makers within five miles of Westcombe that produce the same in one day as Westcombe makes a year, says Calver.
“I’m concerned,” he says, despite the apparent success of farmhouse Cheddar. “We’ve seen a negative impact on sales from Comté and Gruyère, all those French alpine styles which are very sweet.” Calver believes territorials “can be harder” for customers to warm to, but their flavour profiles “have such depth. They’re ones you put on a lunch table and don’t realise you’ve consumed half the wedge.”
Where to buy: Waitrose, M&S, Ocado, Neal’s Yard Dairy, The Courtyard Dairy, The Fine Cheese Co, almost any local cheesemonger
How to enjoy it: With bread, ham and chutney, and a West Country cider