{"id":109593,"date":"2026-08-24T04:37:50","date_gmt":"2026-08-24T04:37:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/109593\/"},"modified":"2026-08-24T04:37:50","modified_gmt":"2026-08-24T04:37:50","slug":"the-wheels-on-the-bus-sadiq-khan-travels-back-in-time-to","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/109593\/","title":{"rendered":"The wheels on the bus: Sadiq Khan travels back in time to&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Buses are back in fashion. Our new prime minister, for one, is a big fan. Having made his name overhauling Greater Manchester\u2019s bus network, <a role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/observer.co.uk\/tags\/andy-burnham\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Anchor font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _ws-pre-wrap _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _cur-pointer _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-18 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-inherit _col-orange_600 _textDecorationColor-orange_600 _td-underline _textDecorationStyle-solid\" style=\"font-weight:var(--f-weight-300)\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Andy Burnham<\/a> is now doing the same across England \u2013 capping fares, lifting restrictions on free travel for disabled people, and backing Richard Parker, mayor of the West Midlands, to bring the region\u2019s buses under public control. We\u2019ve been pioneering these kinds of policies in the capital for years with great success, so it\u2019s brilliant to see them being rolled out across the country.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">As the son of a bus driver, I know firsthand why buses matter so much. As a kid, my brothers and I spent many a weekend on the top deck of my dad\u2019s bus, watching the streets of south and central London go by \u2013 and occasionally peering down the periscope to spot him in the driver\u2019s cab below.<\/p>\n<p>Many of the passengers would never have met elsewhere in their day-to-day lives but, for a brief moment on the bus, their worlds would collideMany of the passengers would never have met elsewhere in their day-to-day lives but, for a brief moment on the bus, their worlds would collide<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">On the number 44, we met passengers from every walk of life: rich and poor, white, black and brown. There were teenagers on their way to Sunday morning football, families on a day out and elderly people heading out to do their shopping. Many of the passengers would never have met elsewhere in their day-to-day lives but, for a brief moment on the bus, their worlds would collide.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Back then, buses were for everyone. But somewhere in the decades since that basic promise was broken. In London we\u2019ve spent the last 10 years trying to bring it back. As mayor I\u2019ve frozen fares seven times and introduced the \u201chopper\u201d fare \u2013 meaning that, for 60 minutes, Londoners can travel on as many buses as they like for only \u00a31.75. Three years ago we also launched the Superloop \u2013 a game-changing new express bus network for outer London that has made it quicker and easier to get around the capital. And the success of our efforts to build Europe\u2019s largest fleet of zero-emissions buses, and make all our buses Ulez compliant, means that the days of dirty polluting engines are over.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Today London\u2019s iconic red buses are better than ever \u2013 and the prime minister\u2019s plans promise to give communities across England a chance to replicate our success. It\u2019s a genuinely exciting prospect. Buses are one of the most affordable, accessible and sociable ways of getting from A to B. They\u2019re there for all of us \u2013 and, for that reason alone, they\u2019ll always be my favourite.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Sound carries on buses, I find. A good thing, of course. As a person who thrives on scraps of other people\u2019s conversation \u2013 a curious person, some might say nosy \u2013 these turbid upper decks are places rich in poetry and treats. An entire adolescent education was gleaned by listening to the Year 9s at the back of the 13 bus. This is where, facing forward yet listening backwards, I learned the truth about French kissing, period stains, whether it was possible to get pregnant from a toilet seat, and how to eat crisps while wearing lip gloss. To this day, the smell of cheese and onion retains its erotic charge. I\u2019ve heard a married couple break up on the 205 through Whitechapel, teenagers lie very well to their parents and whole encyclopedias of disinformation disseminated between boys on the 25. My favourite bus eavesdrop, though, was by my friend Lucy, who, on a bus in Wales, overheard one older lady tell a friend her son had just bought a computer. \u201cWhat\u2019s a computer?\u201d the friend asked, to which she replied: \u201cIt\u2019s like a telly with a calculator plugged in.\u201d<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Since 2018, 90 London doubledeckers have cruised down a dedicated busway on Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City\u2019s equivalent to the Champs-\u00c9lys\u00e9es. Assembled in Falkirk and sent to Mexico via Southampton, they plugged a gap in the city\u2019s metro system, which has not grown fast enough to meet the needs of 23 million people. I love how whimsically out of place those cherry-red chariots are in the highland jungle. Lin\u00e9a 7 coils around no fewer than 10 roundabouts (or glorietas as they\u2019re known in Spanish) adorned with some of the city\u2019s grandest monuments. At just 25p, it is a truly, well, glorious ride. When I spent a spring in CDMX five years ago, I would wake up early on Sundays to snag a top deck seat for the half-hour trip to La Lagunilla, a sprawling antiques market with a block party atmosphere. But the ride home, packed in with shoppers clutching their wares and tipsy from micheladas, was the real fiesta.<\/p>\n<p>Sign up to newsletters from The Observer<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" aria-label=\"Newsletter title: Rachel Sylvester on politics\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-700 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-33333335 _select-auto _ws-normal _text-left\">Rachel Sylvester on politics<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-_xl_block _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-33333335 _select-auto _ws-normal _dsp-none _text-left _shrink-1\">The Observer&#8217;s political editor shares her exclusive insight into what&#8217;s happening in Westminster, Whitehall and beyond.<\/p>\n<p><a role=\"link\" tabindex=\"0\" href=\"https:\/\/observer.co.uk\/newsletters\" class=\"is_Anchor font_body _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _ws-pre-wrap _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _fs-f-size-true _cur-pointer _col-color _td-none is_ButtonUnderlined \" style=\"display:inline-flex;color:var(--text_primary);align-items:center;margin-top:var(--t-space-8);margin-bottom:var(--t-space-16);cursor:pointer;align-self:flex-start\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonDoric _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-4048 _fs-f-size-14 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500599 _col-text_primar121 _select-auto _ws-normal _borderBottomColor-seville_pri3344091 _borderBottomWidth-1px _pb-16px _borderBottomStyle-solid\">For information about how The Observer protects your data, read our <a role=\"link\" aria-label=\"Privacy Policy Link\" href=\"https:\/\/observer.co.uk\/policy\/privacy\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Anchor font_caslonDoric _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _ws-pre-wrap _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _cur-pointer _fs-f-size-14 _lh-inherit _ff-f-family _col-orange_600 _fw-f-weight-4048 _textDecorationColor-orange_600 _td-underline _textDecorationStyle-solid\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Privacy Policy<\/a><\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">In spring 2010, my wife, Claire, and I were coming to the end of our holiday in Istanbul when Iceland\u2019s Eyjafjallaj\u00f6kull volcano erupted, creating an enormous ash cloud that halted air travel over Europe. So, a bus to Germany. The next morning, we rolled out of Turkey and, settling into the worn 1980s upholstery, watched Bulgaria, Serbia and Hungary roll by. We befriended an extended Bradford family returning from hajj, carting with them various infants and two jerry cans of holy water. They remained resolutely cheery despite being questioned at almost every passport stop. At one point outside Vienna, bleary-eyed, we realised we had just passed the same monument twice: a voluble row among the (GPS-less) drivers confirmed they were pretty much lost. But we made it to Cologne, where the railways took over. Our backs ached and we were in sore need of a shower. But in the air we would have blinked and missed it \u2013 and now we could say we had truly crossed a continent.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Obviously, the Queen of Buses is the 555 from Windermere Station to Grasmere village green. Take my hand; here\u2019s how it works. Hop off the train, travel-stale, bewildered. Stagger into the magnificent Booths supermarket next door. Emerge, having lost it in Local Produce, with a Westmorland Pork Swirl; ask a waiting octogenarian walker (wooden stave, kerchiefed terrier, full-body backpack) for directions to the bus stop. Walk 2.6 metres; wait, max, eight minutes. Pay your cheery driver (this is the north) \u00a33. Place your inappropriate suitcase on the purpose-built inappropriate-suitcase shelf. Sit back. Within moments, you can breathe. It\u2019s a journey like no other: silvery lake-water, spectacular mountainage, deep romantic chasms, drystone walls enclosing sunny spots of greenery, couples in moisture-wicking quick-release hiking shorts and azure microfleece neck-warmers. Come for Coleridge, Grasmere gingerbread, the Keswick Pencil Factory; stay for the triple-five, as we regulars call it, and scenery so beautiful you want to laugh.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">The term \u201climinal space\u201d is truly overused these days. Few public spaces are actually liminal, but among these is the National Express coach from London to Glastonbury. From the moment you pull away from the 02 car park in Greenwich \u2013 no normal public transport journey starts at the 02 car park \u2013 you know you have left behind your old life, ready to enter a new phase of identity upon arrival at your destination in six to eight hours, Stonehenge traffic dependent. Or at least until Tuesday. There\u2019s an air of expectation, a febrile excitement, a lot of cans and an excellent service station stop-off where you can \u2013 and should \u2013 purchase a foot-long Subway for the next leg of the journey. This country would be a better place, I think, if more bus journeys had a stop-off point at which you could buy a foot-long sandwich. You will never see these fellow passengers again, but for now they are your friends. The journey back home on the same coach, conversely, is hell on earth.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">An ear operation means I am unable to travel by Tube. No earphones either. So it\u2019s the bus and people-watching for me. Luckily, I\u2019m a regular on the top deck of the greatest, most historic, bus in London, the No 24. I caught it with my dad and I\u2019ve caught it with my children.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Green 24s started running \u2013 before even I needed them \u2013 in 1910 from Hampstead to Victoria. Two years later, the route was extended to Pimlico, and 21 years after that the buses turned red. Not that you\u2019d have known that from the 24\u2019s appearance in the 1949 black-and-white film Passport to Pimlico. I come to work from Pimlico but the 24 is really for everyone. What other bus could offer you close-up views of Westminster Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Parliament Square, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, the Cenotaph, 10 Downing Street, Horse Guards Parade and Trafalgar Square, all in 15 minutes or so? That may just be the best tourist ride in the world.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">In 1999, I was 25 and backpacking through south-east Asia when I found myself on a 15-hour bus journey from Vientiane, Laos, heading south towards the Mekong Delta \u2014 the only way to reach the Four Thousand Islands in those days. It was the sort of journey you can only contemplate when you are young.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">The bus was packed with locals. Live chickens clucked in the luggage racks above our heads; plastic stools filled the aisles,\u00a0their passengers riding them effortlessly as they slid around whenever we hit a bend in the road.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">I found myself sitting beside an\u00a0extraordinarily beautiful\u00a0Laotian man who looked about my age.\u00a0He spoke no English; I spoke no Lao. Through gestures and smiles, we seemed to understand each other.\u00a0I was enormously flattered when, at a roadside stop, he offered me a stick of what appeared to be barbecued cockroaches, which I regretfully declined.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">As I sat bumping in the seat beside him, I found myself imagining a sliding door into another life: getting off at his village, staying with him and spending the rest of my life working on a farm.<\/p>\n<p role=\"text\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"is_Paragraph font_caslonIonic _dsp-inline _bxs-border-box _ww-break-word _mt-0px _mr-0px _mb-0px _ml-0px _ff-f-family _fw-f-weight-3048 _fs-f-size-18 _lh-f-lineHeigh3500605 _col-grey_600 _select-auto _ws-normal\">Instead, when his stop came, we shook hands. And as the bus pulled away, I watched him disappear through the window.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Buses are back in fashion. Our new prime minister, for one, is a big fan. Having made his&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":109594,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_share_on_mastodon":"0"},"categories":[26],"tags":[7786,27,473,285],"class_list":["post-109593","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-london","tag-andy-burnham","tag-london","tag-sadiq-khan","tag-transport"],"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@UnitedKingdom\/117148641230543820","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/109593","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=109593"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/109593\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/109594"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=109593"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=109593"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/britain\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=109593"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}