This is the Julian Alps, located in the northwest of Slovenia, near the borders with Austria and Italy. In a time where more of us are seeking outdoor pursuits in Europe, places like the Alps and Dolomites have become dominated by tourists and queuing to reach viewpoints. However, a few hours to the east of the Dolomites, the Julian Alps remain a little quieter.
While parts of the Julian Alps are well known and see their fair share of crowds in the peak summer season (Bled and its eponymous lake with the church in the middle have been an icon of the country for years), others remain calm and tranquil. These pockets are only a short cycle or drive away – the cycle path connections around the Julian Alps region are fantastic.
In the Tolmin Gorge area of the Soča Valley – a stunning series of gorges, rushing rapids, and well-signposted walkways – you can hike up and down from the base to the peak, or journey further up the valley to Bovec for some incredible white water rafting. Once your adrenaline has peaked, bring your heart rate down with a soak in the hidden thermal spring in the Tolmin Gorge, or head out on a “To the Roots” experience with local guide Petra, who’ll share the ancient history of the region, and get you to explore using all of your senses, slowing down and connecting nature to movement.
Soca River in Tolmin Gorge. Photo / Supplied
Confluence of two rivers in Tolmin Gorge. Photo / Supplied
Tolmin Gorge. Photo / Supplied
To The Roots Experience. Photo / Supplied
If you prefer your water activities a little calmer, head to Lake Bled for an experience where you can row with an Olympian on the lake itself, to really test your mettle, surrounded by the legendary beauty of Bled. Once you’ve worked up a sweat, head for lunch and some local wine at Hotel Triglav. They opt for local, seasonal produce with some of the best views of the lake out on their balcony terrace.
Lake Bled. Photo / Neven Krcmarek on Unsplash
While there are plenty of intense hikes across the Julian Alps and the Triglav National Park, including, of course, the imposing Mount Triglav, the highest peak in Slovenia and seriously technical, there are also plenty of flatter, more accessible options to choose from.
The circular route around Lake Bohinj is longer on the northern part than on the southern side. In total, the loop is around 12km, with the northern side offering forest paths and narrow trails. The southern side is closer to the road, so it isn’t as pretty, but it is shorter and more suited to bikes. At the top of the loop, you’re rewarded with what feels like a treasure at the end of the world: the Savica Waterfall.
There is a harder, more incline-filled hike to get up close to the Savica Waterfall from Ukanc, at the top of Lake Bohinj. However, if you’ve wandered the picturesque forest trail to the top of the lake and don’t feel like walking back down by the road, you can pick up the gorgeous wooden ferry that runs the length of the lake. This panoramic boat ride costs €9 ($18) for a one-way adult ticket, or €14 ($28) for a return trip and takes around 30 minutes one-way. It’s a relaxing and calming way to soak up the scenery of this spectacular lake, fringed by karst mountain peaks, greenery-filled slopes, waterfalls, and woodlands.
Panoramic boat at Lake Bohinj. Photo / Supplied
Lake Bohinj. Photo / Supplied
One of the defining adventure routes throughout the Julian Alps is the stunning Juliana Trail. This 270km-long circular long-distance trail is split into 16 sections of around 17km in length, which last between four and five hours. There are also seven additional stages if that wasn’t quite long enough. Despite the mountainous nature of the Julian Alps and the 7412m of elevation gain over the 16 days, there are plenty of flat sections, with a couple of incline days, that people do in isolation.
The Juliana Trail encompasses Triglav National Park and the Julian Alps, giving you mind-blowing views of Slovenia’s natural wonders. Uniquely, this isn’t a camping or hut-to-hut long-distance trail. Most of the sections start or end in small towns or villages with guesthouses, hotels, or B&Bs. This means you can get a luggage shuttle service and do a long-distance trail in relative comfort.
One of the magical towns that the Juliana Trail passes through on Stage 4 is the medieval town of Radovljica, the cultural capital of the Julian Alps. As you pass through for lunch, carve out time for a spot of shopping. This gorgeous and quaint town is known for its honey and chocolate, so it would be a shame not to partake and refuel for the miles ahead. For something unique, head to the Pharmacy and Alchemy Museum, where you can dive into hundreds of years of healing history, and even make your own perfume to take away with you. A welcome addition after a couple of days on the trails.
The Julian Alps aren’t the only mountain range in this region, however. In the adventure alpine town of Kranjska Gora, you’ll have access to both the Julian Alps and the Karavanke mountain range. This is definitely a four-season town with incredible cycling, rock climbing, and hiking routes, alongside wonderful ski resorts and the Planica Nordic Centre, home to world-class ski jumpers. Located just a hop from the Italian and Austrian borders, you can easily find cross-border adventures, before sitting down for a phenomenal meal at the nearby Triangel Boutique Hotel, surrounded by forest trails and fantastic mountain views on all sides.
After all this adventure and pockets of relaxation and calm along the way, it’s time to rest and recuperate. Sunrose 7 in Bohinj Bistrica is a thoughtfully designed boutique digital detox hotel with incredible seasonal fine dining, and an 85-bottle wine cellar, predominantly stocked with local Slovenian wines, and recommended by a fully-staffed team of sommeliers, who never steered me wrong.
Lounge of Sunrose 7. Photo / Supplied
Soak your tired body in the wellness sauna and hot tub, plunge in the outdoor pool to the soft babbling of the river next to you, or retire to the lounge with a good book and a glass of wine or beer. When they speak of a balance of adventure and wellness, I’ve seen few places do it better than this beautiful pocket of Slovenia.
Details
To reach the Julian Alps, you can fly into the capital, Ljubljana, or into Trieste in neighbouring Italy. There are direct train routes from the capital to Bled, and direct routes to Bohinj on the weekends or with one change in the week. Public buses connect many of the towns and villages, and timetables are seasonal.
The writer travelled courtesy of the Slovenian Tourism Board and the Julian Alps collection of regional tourism boards.