Key Points
The 76-mile Bernina Express crosses the Swiss Alps from Switzerland into Italy through dramatically changing landscapes.
The route follows a UNESCO World Heritage-listed railway with nearly 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, glaciers, mountain villages, and the Brusio Spiral Viaduct.
Winter brings frozen lakes and snow-covered forests, while stops including St. Moritz and Poschiavo add mountain scenery, food, and culture.
One of the best methods of exploring Switzerland’s small villages and experiencing the authentic Alpine magic of this European country is its famously efficient rail system. I’ve used it to go from the shores of Lake Geneva to the top of a glacier 85 miles away; to venture from the slopes of Verbier to St. Moritz; to reach the car-free villages near Interlaken. And while I’m always in awe of its efficiency, it’s the views along the way that leave me planning a return trip.
Several Swiss train routes are regularly referenced for their breathtaking scenery, but only one was recently named the most beautiful in Europe: the Bernina Express. Spanning 76 miles, the Bernina Express departs Switzerland’s oldest town, heads up the Bernina Pass, and brings passengers across the border to Italy.
“The landscapes you see from the Bernina Express change more than those seen from most scenic railways. It feels less like one train journey and more like traveling through several completely different Alpine regions in a single day,” Oliver Corkhill, CEO of luxury travel company Leo Trippi, tells Travel + Leisure. “You start in Chur… and journey through mountain passes and past glaciers before descending toward the much softer Italian landscapes around Poschiavo and Tirano.”
It’s an immersive journey that follows the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rhaetian Railway and brings you through villages, past architecturally significant sites, over nearly 196 bridges, and through 55 tunnels.
Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip on the Bernina Express.
Best Time to Ride
The Bernina Express going through snowy mountains.Credit: Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure
Corkhill shares that “there is an argument for riding the Bernina Express during every season,” but winter provides a stunning, “dramatic” landscape. “The frozen lakes, snow-covered forests, glaciers, and high mountain passes give it a sense of wonder and remoteness the other seasons can’t match,” he says. “There is also the contrast that evolves throughout the day, because you can leave a very wintry Engadin and arrive in Poschiavo or Tirano in something considerably milder. This change is more pronounced in winter than at any other time of year.”
Just keep in mind that timetables change by the season, with fewer trains running in the winter, so you’ll want to plan your trip accordingly.
Know Before You Go
A view of the landscape from inside the Bernina Express.Credit: Estera/Adobe Stock
Your fare aboard the Bernina Express is covered by my favorite Switzerland travel “hack,” the Swiss Travel Pass, which lets you travel by train, boat, and bus throughout the country. Otherwise, first-class and second-class return tickets will run you about $279 and $162 USD, respectively. No matter how you handle your fare, you’ll need to reserve a seat; this can be done online, by phone, or at a ticket office. The seat reservation costs between $50 and $55, depending on the season. And don’t stress about which seat you choose.
“The best views shift throughout the journey, so what you miss on one side you pick up on the other fairly quickly. For two people, sitting opposite each other works well,” says Corkhill.
You can certainly do the Bernina Express as a day trip, but don’t forget to bring the proper gear—namely, a fully charged phone or camera and the right clothing. “Another piece of advice is to bring proper layers during winter,” Corkhill adds. “Most of the journey is indoors, but if you are stopping at any of the higher stations, the temperature at the top of the pass can be completely different from those lower down.”
Stops Along the Route
A view of the landscape from inside the Bernina Express.Credit: Estera/Adobe Stock
The Bernina Express is the epitome of slow travel.
“People are… surprised by its pace—it’s lower and more immersive than people may expect, so you have time to properly appreciate the changes in altitude, scenery and climate,” says Corkhill.
But this is not a hop-on, hop-off experience.
“Honestly, anyone planning to stop at several points will probably find the regular regional trains more practical than travelling the full route on the Bernina Express,” says Corkhill. Still, the stops below offer a glimpse of the landscapes and towns that make this route so memorable.
Not far from Chur is St. Moritz, the glitzy Alpine resort town best known for its grand hotels (like Kulm and Badrutt’s Palace) and winter tourism. You can also board here for the “short route” of the Bernina Express, which takes about two hours and 15 minutes.
From there, the Bernina Express brings passengers to the Diavolezza and Alp Grüm. “Alp Grüm is probably the most dramatic stop. It boasts views toward the Palü Glacier and down into Val Poschiavo and, in winter, it feels as remote as this railway gets,” says Corkhill. “The Diavolezza is the best for high-Alpine scenery and mountain access, making it a natural choice for anyone combining the Bernina journey with skiing or a winter stay in the Engadin.”
Further south, the train stops in Poschiavo. “Poschiavo has the strongest cultural draw on the route with very attractive architecture and excellent local food. It has a distinctly Italian feel and is not overly touristy,” Corkhill says, calling it the “best all-round choice” for travelers who want to experience local culture, food, and outdoor activities. “It’s a lovely place to walk around, stop for lunch, and enjoy local cheeses, cured meats and regional dishes,” he says.
After stopping in Poschiavo, the train crosses the famous Brusio Spiral Viaduct, a structure known for its nine stone arches and 360-degree spiral. “The Brusio Spiral Viaduct is one of the most remarkable pieces of railway infrastructure in the Alps, but the railway never feels like it is imposed on the landscape—it feels completely integrated into it,” says Corkhill. “You could walk away thinking it had always been there, and this integration sets it apart from most scenic routes.”
Finally, you’ll arrive in Tirano, a historic Italian town located in the Valtellina valley of Lombardy. “Tirano is somewhere most people treat as the end of the line, but it’s definitely worth more time than that,” says Corkhill. “A long lunch here is a great way to give a memorable journey a proper ending.” Plus, the palm trees of Tirano are an oft-cited example of the diversity in landscape travelers experience on the Bernina Express journey.
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