Geneva Watch Days was started by eight watch brands in 2020 during the COVID Pandemic. Since then, it has grown in importance and now has a permanent place on the international watch fair calendar.
This year’s fair, which opened September 2, hosts 71 brands spread out throughout the city of Geneva. Most exhibitors are smaller independent brands but there are several internationally recognized watch brands owned by luxury conglomerates as well. Part of the fair’s success is due to being opened to the public from the beginning, allowing collectors, clients and the curious a chance to try on watches and talk to company officials. Unlike trade shows, which are only open to the watch and jewelry trade.
“What began as a bold initiative in the year of COVID, to compensate for the cancellation of the traditional watch fairs, has become an unmissable event, carried forward by an ever more engaged community of brands, collectors, partners and enthusiasts,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, president of Geneva Watch Days and CEO of Bulgari and LVMH Watches. “This edition strengthens the ties between watchmaking and its ecosystem in Geneva and internationally. We remain convinced that nothing replaces real encounters, real conversations and the emotions shared around our creations. It is this collective energy that makes Geneva Watch Days unique.”
Most watchmakers use the fair to reveal new timepieces. Below are 12 standout pieces introduced at the fair.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time X Vianney Halter
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter
The signature ultra-thin watch collection from Bulgari (top photo) received an addition boost by collaborating with celebrated watchmaker Vianney Halter for a dual-time edition. The 40.5mm case with a thickness of just 9.70mm has more than 50 components. The watch is powered by the BVL 138 caliber automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve that integrates a GMT, Date and Day/Night functions.
This collaborative watch comes in two limited edition versions. The first, in brushed titanium, is limited to 30 pieces, and the second, in polished satin pink gold, is limited to 15 pieces.
Corum Admiral Ceramic watch collection
Corum Admiral Watches in Ceramic
Three new interpretations of ceramic enter the Admiral collection for the first time: a titanium blue version; a second, two-tone version with 5N gold; and a third, skeletonized piece in anthracite ceramic. Corum says these pieces embody the Maison’s sport-chic credentials.
The 39mm case houses a caliber developed with Concepto, the movement manufacture owned by Corum. The movement comes in two versions: the CO231 caliber with 172 components and its skeletonized variant, the CO232 with 181 components. Each caliber offers a three-day power reserve.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm
Girard-Perregaux introduced a new complication and unites five signature details of the manufacture within one watch. Girard-Perregaux says it represents its 235-year history of haute horlogerie.
The timepiece combines Girard-Perregaux’s three arrow-shaped bridges, enamel grand feu dial, lyre-shaped tourbillon cage and the Clous de Paris motif on the dial and caseback.
The 39mm steel watch is powered by the new in-house caliber GP8410-2574 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. There are two dial colors—enamel grand feu blue and 18k rose gold—both with the Clous de Paris motif. A steel integrated bracelet completes the watch.
Speake Marin Openworked Tourbillon Royal Blue
Speake Marin Openworked Tourbillion Royal Blue
The three-dimensional openworked dial and flange is finished in “royal blue” PVD. Twelve light-gray Super-LumiNova hour markers on the flange, emit blue luminescence. The PVD-treated hands are light gray with blue luminescence. The power-reserve indicator at 7:30 is accented by a glossy red detail.
The royal blue dial is housed in a 42mm signature “Piccadilly case.” The watch is powered by the caliber SMA05 automatic movement with a 60-second flying tourbillion and a 72-hour power reserve. The movement consists of 290 components, including 63 for the tourbillon cage.
The watch is limited to five pieces.
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport collection
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
Zenith brings the high-frequency El Primero into a streamlined three-hand sports watch designed for everyday wear. Powered by the El Primero 3620 in-house automatic movement, the Solo Sport runs at the El Primero signature 5 Hz frequency, but without the chronograph complication traditionally associated with the Chronomaster collection.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses a ceramic dial with a repeating 45 dgree Z pattern, a vintage-inspired “shark tooth” minute track, ceramic bezel. It’s available in black, white and brown and in a no-date black version.
Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau in Ceramic in deep blue
Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau in Ceramic
Bianchet introduces two ceramic interpretations of its UltraFino Tonneau. A deep blue model plays on subtle transitions between blue, black and metallic tones, while the white ceramic edition takes a more luminous and graphic approach. Both the 40mm case and bracelet are in ceramic.
The watches are powered by Bianchet manufacture calibre UT01 automatic movement with a thickness of just 3.85mm. The movement has a 60-hour power reserve and is engineered to withstand shocks of up to 5,000 G, making it tourbillon for active lifestyles.
The Alto Art 02
This new watch retains the architectural, multi-layered geometric structure as well as the case shape and monochrome color of the original Art 01. The automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve, however, is new, manufactured in collaboration with Cercle des Horlogers. The movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour). Its construction is based on a Grade 5 titanium plate, combined with satin-finished brass bridges featuring polished bevels. The micro-rotor, crafted from rhodium-plated Reconit 18, is finished with microblasted, circular-brushed and engraved surfaces.
Like all Alto watches, the seconds hand rotates counterclockwise. The watch is completed with a Grade 5 titanium integrated bracelet.
Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò Rose Gold
Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò
The 50-piece limited edition collection is built around two hand-finished, Swiss-made dials featuring intricate, hand tremblage. The collection is split between two variants: 10 pieces in all-white-gold dials, reserved for established clients of either brand, and 40 dials combining white and rose gold, with orders open to the public. Both are housed in Atelier Wen’s Inflection tantalum case and integrated bracelet.
The watch is powered by a customized caliber GP03300 from Girard-Perregaux automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The lines of the ruthenium-plated bridges take their inspiration from motifs of wind found in historical Chinese paintings.
Gérald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
Gérald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
This 38mm x 38mm steel watch is distinctive for its hand-hammered Maillechort dial in three colors. This Métier d’Art craft is completed by one artisan. The asymmetrical case features a distinctive curve at 6 o’clock that resembles a smile. The case is completed with an integrated steel bracelet. The watch is powered by the in-house ultra-thin Reference GCA 1000 automatic movement with an offset micro-roto with a 50-hour power reserve.
Frédérique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding
Frédérique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding
The new Classics Moneta Handwinding introduces a 38.5 mm case and is powered by a manual-wound movement developed by La Joux-Perret, delivering a 63-hour power reserve. Its vintage-inspired smoked salmon gradient dial is paired with a vintage-style alligator leather strap featuring a small-scale pattern. It’s produced in a limited edition of 999 pieces.
Beda’a Angles Mecaline 37 Boutique Edition
Beda’a Angles 37 Boutique Edition and the Angles Mecaline Boutique Edition
The independent watch brand chose the Mandarin Oriental, Doha to open first boutique. To mark the occasion, the company released two boutique-edition watches. Both watches share a vertically brushed silver dial, black Breguet-style numerals, gold-toned hands and a deep blue strap. They are both in silver and black, which coincides with the colors of the new boutique.
Beda’a Angles 37 Boutique Edition is powered by a quartz movement while the Mecaline piece is powered by hand-wound movement.
Alpina Solar Powered Startimer Pilot Solarmetre
Alpina Solar Powered Startimer Pilot Solarmetre
This aviation watch in a new compact 38mm case is now powered by light and can run for up to 10 months through Solarmetre solar technology. The Solarmetre technology was developed by La Joux-Perret, a Swiss-made movement specialist which, like Alpina, is part of the Citizen Group.
Along with the new size, there are three new variations of the model. Two in steel cases with a black grained dial on a black leather strap, and a blue grained dial on a blue textile strap. A third edition is in sand-colored PVD-treated steel, with a brown grained dial and a matching NATO-style strap.
Geneva Watch Days will run through September 6.
This article was originally published on Forbes.com