A protected Zürich building has a new lease of life as a Japanese restaurant. Ooki Pavilion’s owners are helping to transform a quieter corner of the city with good food and great design.

After months of shuttered stillness, a friendly hum of activity is returning to a verdant corner in Zürich’s Sihlfield neighbourhood. Friends and family gather under the cheerful coloured awnings and simple string lights of the terrace at Ooki Pavillon, the second restaurant from Hiroyuki Oki and his son Ino – the pair behind the popular original Ooki izakaya (a Japanese pub) that opened in the Wiedikon quarter in 2016.

As for most in the hospitality trade, the past year has been incredibly tough for the Ooki team, who needed to juggle a set of ever-changing pandemic restrictions. “It is always an important decision, deciding whether to open a new restaurant,” says Ino, pouring Monocle a cup of genmaicha tea. “But the pandemic made the decision even more complicated.”

Ooki restaurant staff standing outside the storefront with signage and red awning in Zürich.Ooki staff outside the restaurant; Ino Oki is standing, second from right

Chef peering through sheer curtains at Ooki Pavilion restaurant, wearing glasses and black chef's attireChef taking a breather

Ooki Pavillon is in a much quieter part of the city – an overlooked neighbourhood mainly known for Letzigrund stadium. But with new apartment blocks springing up to the north and the Lochergut neighbourhood to the south buzzing with bars and restaurants, there is a new sense of life on the once-quiet streets. “This area will be popping for sure in the coming years,” says Ino. “That feeling of opportunity in the neighbourhood and the building itself were the main reasons we decided to come out here.”

Built in the 1950s as the leisure room for the city’s first high-rise apartment blocks, the restaurant is housed in one of just a handful of pavilions in Zürich. Its eight glass sides open out onto a cheerful garden, its expanse of well-spaced tables and chairs shaded by mature trees. Inside, the protected building is spacious and yet surprisingly cosy thanks to the careful fit-out of the interior. The original rust-red ceiling, the warm glow of the spherical glass lights and the honey-coloured Kreuzzargen chairs designed by Swiss architect and industrial designer Max Bill in 1951 are complemented by thoughtful new additions; koushimado-style sliding panels and a saké-laden bar add a touch of Tokyo, while a custom-made plywood seating unit softened by planting visually breaks the restaurant floor.

Bartender Robin smiling behind the bar at Ooki Pavilion with saké bottles and shelves of spirits.Bartender Robin

Interior of Ooki Pavilion showing wooden chairs at tables with large windows overlooking green garden.Max Bill chairs in the restaurant

Fried octopus served on a white plate with microgreens, lime wedge, and dipping sauce.Fried octopus

Man dining at Ooki Pavilion terrace with wine glass and Japanese dishesDelicious dipping

A hand reaching toward a ceramic bowl of Japanese sashimi and sushi rice with sliced cucumber, salmon roe, and garnishes at Ooki Pavilion restaurant.Dinner is served

Close to home

Head chef Yusuke Sasaki is particular about his produce, favouring Swiss biodynamic supplier, Demeter. Where possible, he sources all of his ingredients locally. Surprisingly, the restaurant’s miso is made in the Swiss region of Aargau; the natto fermented bean paste is also produced in Switzerland and the daifuku (sweets) are handmade in Zug, just a 30-minute train journey from Zürich.

Bowl of miso ramen with pork, scallions and noodles in a white ceramic bowl with Ooki brandingMiso ramen with pork

Exterior view of Ooki Pavilion with glass-sided structure surrounded by green lawn and trees, with diners seated outside.Rear of Ooki Pavilion

Hand holding a glass of umericano cocktail with lemon twist and wooden stir stick, with blurred building exterior in background.An umericano: plum wine, red vermouth, soda

Diners enjoying dinner on the terrace of Ooki Pavilion under red awnings with lush green foliage.Dinner on the terrace

Interior of Ooki Pavilion restaurant showing rust-red ceiling, spherical glass lights, and plywood seating with plants.View from the entrance

The atmosphere is convivial and familiar, not least because of the owners. “The fact that we are family – two of my siblings also work here, the third runs the izakaya – as well as being friends is one of the biggest drivers of the vibe,” says Ino. “We like the casual way a lot and this is how we live it: with an easy-going mood and customer service to make people feel at home.”

And it is clearly working. Despite only opening in April 2021, and with some restrictions still in place, Ooki Pavillon already has a crowd of regulars. Once restrictions are lifted, it will be even easier to while away the hours here, enjoying a leisurely lunch of avocado and yuzu tartar, gyoza and other ippinryouri (small dishes). You can refuel after a busy morning with matcha and Japanese sweets on the sunny terrace or settle in for the night with the signature tantanmen ramen (offered in spicy, mega spicy, or crazy spicy form) with a cold, crisp beer from Turbinenbräu, a brewery just one tram stop away. This is the sort of fusion we could get on board with.
pavillon.ooki.tokyo