It is that time again: Watches & Wonders is underway in Geneva, and the annual flood of headline-making releases has begun in earnest. As in years past, many of the fair’s most closely watched debuts are not wholesale reinventions, but revisions of familiar models—adjusted proportions, reworked case sizes, and new expressions of long-established complications. Even so, a little magic has crept into the proceedings, with some brands concealing their cleverness in plain sight and others putting more of the horological art on display.
One of the fair’s smartest sleights of hand comes courtesy of Parmigiani Fleurier. At first glance, the new Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux looks almost disarmingly spare: a clean three-hander in the elegant house style that defines the line, with no subdials to give the game away. But press the monopusher at 7:30, and the watch reveals its trick—what Parmigiani is calling a world’s first: chronograph hands that appear only when needed, then disappear again entirely, a reimagining of one of watchmaking’s most familiar complications that feels genuinely unexpected.
Vacheron Constantin, meanwhile, has delivered the sort of crowd-pleasing debut collectors tend to obsess over. The new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Calibre 2550 follows in the lineage of the boutique-only Ultra-Thin 2000V, but ups the ante with a platinum case, a striking salmon dial, and an ultra-slim movement that packs an impressive amount of mechanical sophistication into just 2.4 mm.
Elsewhere, refinement has taken the form of reduced proportions. The move toward smaller watches shows no signs of slowing, with Bulgari offering a 37 mm edition of its Octo Finissimo and H. Moser & Cie. introducing 34 mm and 28 mm versions of its Streamliner, both still powered by self-winding mechanical movements. Neither loses anything in the transition: the Octo Finissimo retains its distinctive geometry, while the Streamliner remains unmistakably Moser in its stripped-back purity.
While many of the 2026 novelties favor measured evolution, not every brand opted for restraint. Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, and Hermès are among the maisons exploring skeletonized and open-worked dials, giving the week some welcome visual flourish. This year’s lineup suggests that subtlety may carry the day, but there is always room for a little theater. Below, see how both share the stage.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”
Image Credit: A. Lange & Söhne
Since its introduction in 1994, the instant horological classic known as the Lange 1 has provided its German maker an ideal platform for iteration and refinement. Case in point: The new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen,” which will be available in a limited edition of just 50 pieces. The technically audacious reference is powered by an all-new movement, the L225.1 caliber, whose perpetual calendar won’t need to be corrected until March 2100. (It also has Lange’s first 18 carat white gold central rotor and platinum centrifugal mass that achieve 50 hours of power reserve.) Perhaps most impressive, though, is its bold, glowing design. The semi-transparent sapphire dial allows for a look at the intricate finishes on the new caliber and also makes it easy for its luminous elements (the oversize date, the moon phase, and the leap year indicator displayed in an aperture at six o’clock) to charge.
Case Size: 41.9 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Strap: Black Alligator
Power Reserve: 50 hours
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
Image Credit: A. Lange & Söhne
Another classic model updated with an entirely new movement, the new Saxonia Annual Calendar somehow refined one of this brand’s most elegant timepieces. Its slim, 36 mm case (offered in either white or pink gold) is powered by the new self-winding L207.1 caliber, which is so complex that it only requires one manual adjustment each year (when February turns to March). The finish and decoration, always a highlight of Lange’s intricate timepieces, is where this model really shines. The moon phase, tiny as it is, is decorated with an astounding 428 stars; the ends of the hour markers hare been updated to resemble pyramids; and each of the three subdials has been painstakingly decorated with filigreed azurage, which gives each of them a three-dimensional effect. Flip the model over and the polished aesthetic language continues: you can get lost looking at the delicate finishes on nearly every element of the movement.
Case Size: 36 mm
Case Material: 18k white or pink gold
Strap: Brown Alligator
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37
Image Credit: Bulgari
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo has been getting thinner and thinner, but now it is shrinking in case dimensions, too. The newest iteration is smaller and lighter than its predecessors, with a 37 mm case and an overall weight of just 65 grams. That means it is more comfortable on the wrist than the previous 40 mm references. Interestingly, the new in-house movement (caliber BVF 100) is thicker than the one in the 40 mm models but takes up less overall space. The new models are powered by a more efficient micro-rotor developed with help from the brand’s experience developing its Piccolissimo and Solotempo ladies’ movements. The caliber showcases high watchmaking finishes, with Côtes de Genève on the bridges and mainplate. That meticulous craftsmanship, of course, extends to the architectural, geometric case and bracelet. The Octo Finissimo 37 comes in sandblasted titanium, satin-polished titanium, and 18-karat yellow gold. The fourth of Bulgari’s new 37 mm Octo Finissimo models, ref. 104250, hides a surprise in its slim sandblasted titanium case: a minute repeater with two hammers, powered by the brand’s BVL 362 manufacture manual winding ultra-thin movement. Talk about stealth wealth.
“By reinterpreting the Octo Finissimo codes with this new dimension,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of LVMH Watches and CEO of Bvlgari, “we have created a timepiece that goes beyond technical prowess to fully embrace the contemporary art of living.” Sign us up!
Case Size: 37 mm
Case Material: Sandblasted titanium (104089 and 104250), yellow gold (104120) and polished titanium (104351)
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Titanium and yellow gold bracelets
Price: $16,600 (104089), $48,300 (104120), $17,400 (104351), and price upon request (104250)
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Image Credit: Bulgari
Bulgari, the masters of micro complications, are at it again, unveiling the thinnest ever platinum tourbillon this year. In November, Bulgari picked up a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award for its Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, a titanium watch with a thickness of just 1.85 mm. Now, a platinum version limited to 10 pieces hits the market, distinguished by the blue tone of its skeletonized dial.
The new model takes design cues from the record-setting Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, but Eagle-eyed collectors will spot the decorative details that set this limited edition apart beyond its heftier weight. The same, ultra-thin 1.85 mm mechanical movement (the manually wound tourbillon caliber BVF 900) remains, but showcases new decorative details, including a mainplate with galvanic treatment, a steel ratchet wheel engraved with geometric decoration, and a bracelet combining satin-brushed and polished finishes. The limited edition also features a new blue hue on the skeletonized dial, making it a little brighter and bolder than its monochromatic, all-gray predecessor. A mere 10 pieces will be produced. But the key point to remember about this most precious of Finissimos is that it remains the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon.
Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Satin-polished platinum
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Satin-polished platinum
Price: Limited to 10, price TBC
Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna
Image Credit: Bulgari
When the Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna debuted at Watches & Wonders last year, we considered it to be one of the more subtle bracelet-watches in the Roman jeweler’s famous snake-inspired collection, thanks to its simple, solid bracelet and highly stylized serpent head. The two newest references are anything but subtle, though. The rose-gold example is almost entirely covered in colored gemstones—emeralds, sapphires, tourmalines, you name it—with white diamonds appearing only on the perimeter and the pavé-set dial. The 122 vibrant gems come in a variety of cuts and sizes, resulting in a kaleidoscopic composition that commands attention. The technicolor timepiece took 225 hours of work to complete, with 185 hours devoted to stone selection and more than 60 hours spent on setting. The yellow-gold iteration swaps bright hues for bright whites, with a few lines of diamonds on the head and tail plus mother-of-pearl on the dial.
Case Size: 24 mm
Case Material: Rose gold or yellow gold
Movement: Quartz
Strap: Rose gold or yellow gold
Price: TBC
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Studs
Image Credit: Bulgari
Bulgari has given us many twists on the Serpenti over the years, but the latest versions of the bracelet-watch may be the edgiest yet. The four newcomers showcase “clou” studs on their flexible Tubogas bracelets, with the pyramidal facets juxtaposing the signature curves and bringing a new dimension to the iconic sinuous silhouette. Some studs are also gem-set for extra sparkle. Two out of four are crafted in a mix of yellow gold and steel, one is made of rose gold and steel, and one is entirely yellow gold. All four feature either stone or mother-of-pearl dials, which, of course, are bang on trend. The two-tone versions are paired with shimmering mother-of-pearl, deep-blue sodalite, or bright-green malachite, while the all-gold example is combined with bold red carnelian. Rounding out the designs are diamond-encrusted bezels and rubellite-set crowns.
Case Size: 35 mm
Case Material: Steel and gold or yellow gold
Movement: Quartz
Strap: Steel and gold or yellow gold
Price: TBC
Chanel J12 Superleggera
Image Credit: Chanel
Chanel typically adheres to a “less is more” mantra, but decided “more is more” at Watches & Wonders this year. The French maison has unveiled a myriad of timepieces, including at least eight new versions of the J12. This particular piece is part of the Superleggera—or “super light” in English—line. Launched in 2005, the collection comprises lightweight chronographs that combine impressive performance with elegant aesthetics. The newest addition is the sportiest and sleekest yet, according to Chanel. It is almost entirely black, but subtle contrasts in finishes and materials add depth. The 42 mm case combines matte black ceramic and black-coated steel, while the black lacquered dial is brushed at the center and azure on the borders. All that black is juxtaposed with a new bezel ring made of satin-finished steel, the red arrow on the date window at 4 o’clock, and other red accents. Flip it over, the exhibition caseback spotlights a COSC-certified automatic movement—the Caliber 12.1 that Chanel developed with Kenissi in 2019—featuring, you guessed it, a black-coated oscillating weight.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Matte black ceramic and steel with black coating
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Matte black ceramic
Price: TBC
Chanel J12 Golden Black
Image Credit: Chanel
Remember that song “Black and Gold” from the early 2000s? Well, we deem it the unofficial anthem for these two J12s. Both limited editions feature black ceramic cases and bracelets, blackened steel bezels, and contrasting yellow-gold accents, creating a striking juxtaposition of light and dark on the wrist. The 28 mm “mini” version is equipped with a fixed bezel and a quartz movement, while the 42 mm “maxi” is fitted with a unidirectional, rotating bezel and the Caliber 12.1. The COSC-certified automatic movement—produced by Kenissi, the Swiss manufacturer co-owned by Tudor and Chanel—features a matching gold-plated oscillating weight that shines through the transparent caseback. The sapphire crystal on the back is also inscribed with “limited edition,” according to the house.
Case Size: 28 or 42 mm
Case Material: Polished or matte black ceramic
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Polished or matte black ceramic
Price: Limited edition, price TBC
Chanel J12 Diamond Tourbillon
Image Credit: Chanel
How do you highlight a diamond-set flying tourbillon? With more diamonds, according to Chanel. The house has unveiled a new iced-out J12, with baguette-cut diamonds encircling the singular Caliber 5. Each stone was made-to-measure, much like Chanel couture, and carefully arranged on the open-worked dial to draw the eye to the complication at 6 o’clock. Introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2022 after three years of development, the movement features a specially cut 0.18-carat diamond at the center and 26 brilliant-cut diamonds on the tourbillon cage. That isn’t all in terms of bling, though. Yet more stones adorn the 18-karat white gold on the case, bezel, bracelet, crown, and, yes, even the hands. In total, the watch boasts 701 diamonds collectively weighing 39.17 carats. It is limited to 12 pieces.
Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: 18-karat white gold
Price: Limited to 12, price TBC
Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition
Image Credit: Chanel
Coco Chanel herself began incorporating lions into her designs in the 1920s, as it was her favorite animal, her star sign, and a symbol of power and protection. It has appeared on Chanel buttons, clasps, jewelry, and even watch movements. In 2023, Chanel expanded Monsieur collection—the maison’s dedicated high-watchmaking line for men that debuted in 2016—adding a model featuring a new flying tourbillon (Caliber 5.1) topped with a lion’s head. It followed up with a platinum version in 2025 and has now unveiled an all-black riff. If the first was Mufasa, consider this one Scar. The case, bracelet, and dial are all black, resulting in a simple, monochromatic aesthetic that lets that lion at 6 o’clock take the focus. The mini sculpture was laser-engraved in a block of titanium, resulting in an extraordinary level of detail. The piece is limited to 55, with that exclusivity inscribed on the sapphire crystal caseback.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Matte black ceramic and steel with black coating
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Black nylon with black calfskin trim and lining
Price: Limited to 55, with price TBC
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Image Credit: Chopard
Chopard has recently been working on taking the Alpine Eagle collection to new heights, adding references with new complications and high watchmaking finishes. The latest addition builds on the first 41 XPS that debuted at Watches & Wonders in 2023, showcasing a 41 mm Lucent steel case that is just 8 mm thin, a textured dial inspired by an eagle’s eye, a small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock, and a chronometer-certified movement (L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L) within. Both the movement and case are also finished to the Poinçon de Genève standards, as with the previous version. This iteration did, however, gain a redesigned bracelet with a new comfort adjustment system integrated into the clasp. With a simple pull and push, the bracelet can extend by up to 5 mm, meaning the wearer can quickly tailor the fit to the situation. The newcomer also features a new Champagne-like hue known as “Mountain Glow” on the dial, which evokes the sun’s rays hitting the Alps.
Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Lucent steel
Power Reserve: Approximately 65 hours
Strap: Lucent steel
Price: On request
Chopard L’Heure du Diamant
Image Credit: Chopard
Chopard’s L’Heure du Diamant timepiece has been reimagined countless times over the years, taking on different shapes, materials, and complications. The newest reference, like all others in the line, was inspired by a 1970s jewelry watch and also pays homage to the maison’s stone artistry, which dates back to the 1960s. A 30.5 mm cushion-shaped case in 18-karat ethical gold frames a deep black onyx dial topped with diamond-set indexes and hands. More sparkle comes from the bezel, which features no less than 4.4 carats of diamonds in Chopard’s signature crown-setting. Even more stones can be found on the crown and the buckle of the black alligator strap. Inside lies an in‑house 09.01‑C self‑winding mechanical movement that beats at a frequency of 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The newcomer is yet another testament to Chopard’s skill in the realms of watches and jewelry.
Case Size: 30.5 mm
Case Material: 18-karat ethical white gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Black alligator
Price: TBC
Chopard LUC 1860
Image Credit: Alex Teuscher
Even Chopard is nostalgic for the ‘90s. The Swiss watchmaker has introduced a second continuation model of the L.U.C 1860 that debuted in 1997. (It unveiled the first tribute piece at Watches & Wonders in 2023.) Created in honor of the 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, the newcomer retains the proportions and design of the original but showcases modern innovations developed over the past three decades. The chronometer-certified L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L at the heart, for example, is a direct evolution of the first movement conceived and produced by the Fleurier manufacture 30 years ago. As with the original, the modern successors feature a compact 36.5 mm case, though it is crafted in Lucent Steel rather than precious metal. This particular iteration is distinguished by an “Areuse Blue” dial, with the deep blue hue an homage to the river that runs near the manufacture. The hand-guilloché face is decorated with a sunburst pattern, further accentuated by a satin-brushed chapter ring, a minute track, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The watch is paired with a gray grained calfskin strap.
Case Size: 36.5 mm
Case Material: Lucent steel
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Gray grained calfskin
Price: TBC
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ011
Image Credit: Grand Seiko
You don’t have to go chasing waterfalls because Grand Seiko is bringing the beauty of one directly to your wrist. The newest Spring Drive watch to join the Japanese brand’s Masterpiece collection showcases an incredibly intricate pattern inspired by the Tateshina Waterfall in Shinshu, the region of central Japan where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive and quartz watches are made. The dial is hand-engraved with countless lines that take many different directions yet flow together like water. The signature 4GS case, crafted in platinum, bears the same mesmerizing lines, with Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing adding to the interplay with light. The hands and hour markers are made of 14-karat white gold, creating a stark contrast and ensuring legibility. Similarly, the lettering and minute markers are carved into the dial to help them stand out among the surrounding lines. Inside lies Grand Seiko’s thinnest SpringDrive movement to date—the manual-winding Caliber 9R02—which measures a svelte 4 mm thick, but offers an impressive 84-hour power reserve. It is beautifully decorated and can be appreciated via the transparent caseback.
Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power reserve: 84 hours
Strap: Black crocodile or Kyoto leather
Price: Limited edition of 50, $84,000
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGB006
Image Credit: Grand Seiko
Another Spring Drive, another breathtaking dial. For this limited edition, Grand Seiko has taken inspiration from a sun pillar, a rare atmospheric phenomenon in which emerging sunlight reflects off ice crystals suspended in the air. That is likely to occur in the frost-covered forest near the Grand Seiko studio in Shinshu, where all Spring Drives are made. The jet-black dial is adorned with countless gold-colored specks that sparkle just like those crystals. More gold appears on the hands, markers, crown, and case, balancing the black on the dial and strap. On the reverse side, the exhibition caseback reveals the Caliber 9RB2 with a bridge decorated in a special finish inspired by the frost-covered forest trees. The movement carries a new U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation, with a level of precision (±20 seconds per year) that means it performs as good as it looks.
Case Size: 44.3 mm
Case Material: 18-karat yellow gold
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Black crocodile
Price: Limited edition of 80, $43,600
Grand Seiko SBGD228 Red Lion
Image Credit: Grand Seiko
You may not guess by looking at it, but the Grand Seiko SBGD228 is inspired by a lion. The iced-out limited edition, part of the Masterpiece collection, showcases over 250 diamonds and brilliantly shining Mozambique garnets, but only two lion-centric touches. Inside the 18-karat rose gold case lies an 18-karat white-gold dial with wine-red mother-of-pearl at the center and gems on the periphery. The garnets sit amid hundreds of white diamonds as the hour markers, ensuring the watch is not only beautiful but legible. The diamonds on the lugs extend outward as a nod to the lion’s sharpened claws. There is also a lion emblem displayed on the caseback. The animal has been the Japanese watchmaker’s symbol since the early days, representing nobility and strength. That strength is perhaps best shown in the in-house Caliber 9R01 beating inside, which offers an extraordinary power reserve of approximately eight days (192 hours). It may not scream “lion,” but it certainly makes a statement.
Case Size: 44.5 mm
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Power reserve: 192 hours
Strap: Red crocodile
Price: Limited edition of eight, $273,000
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum
Image Credit: H. Moser & Cie
Paring things down to a minimum is a specialty at Moser and this year it turned its eye to its Endeavour Perpetual Calendar to refine it even further. For the new tantalum model, the watchmaker removed its branding and indices and slimmed down its hour and minute hands for an even sleeker look. Instead of the bright blue and ombre salmon dials of its existing Endeavour Perpetual Calendars, Moser went a step further to create the sunburst-pattern dial in tantalum as well.
Tantalum is notoriously difficult to work with because it’s extremely dense and “gummy,” meaning it resists clean cutting, quickly wears down tools, and requires slow, precise machining. On top of that, it retains heat and is hard to finish, making it challenging to achieve the crisp lines and polished surfaces expected in high-end watch cases. Of course, that’s the exact kind of challenge watchmakers love. But the real reason the material keeps popping up is its color: Tantalum offers a distinctive blue-gray tone with a soft, almost matte luster that sits between steel and platinum. While purists may hate the date window, this is an otherwise sleek design that Moser would do well to capitalize on.
Case Size: 42 by 13.1 mm
Case Material: Tantalum
Power Reserve: 7 days
Strap: Hand-stitched gray nubuck alligator leather
Price: $94,500
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Mini
Image Credit: H. Moser & Cie
Honey, I shrunk the watch! Is this the year everyone goes mini? It’s certainly starting to seem that way. Earlier this year, Audemars Piguet introduced its Royal Oak mini to much fanfare and now H. Moser & Cie is offering a more minute version of its popular Streamliner model. The watch now comes in 34 mm and 28 mm sizing, both still equipped with self-winding mechanical movements. With no logo, no indices, and no central seconds, this is pure Moser minimalism. But of course, there’s always a bit of dial pizzazz: both are frosted via a manual engraving process and come in burgundy or silver as the backdrop to the Super-LumiNova-accented hour and minute hands. The dial and the unique form of the Streamliner speak for themselves. As always with Moser, if you know, you know.
Case Material: Steel
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: $27,600
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Pump
Image Credit: H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie. leans into its irreverent playbook with a collaboration that bridges horology and sneaker culture, teaming up with Reebok to reinterpret the ’90s Pump—this time as a mechanical winding system. The brand reworked its HMC 500 movement into a manual caliber powered not by a traditional crown but by an anodized aluminum pusher at 8 o’clock, with each press delivering one hour of power reserve, visibly tracked on the dial. Housed in the Streamliner case, the watch pairs genuine technical ingenuity with a sense of play, channeling the same subversive spirit behind Moser’s past provocations—from the Swiss Alp to the cheese-cased Swiss Mad Watch. The result is a piece that underscores the brand’s philosophy: serious watchmaking, executed with a wink. The bonus? Clients will receive a special Reebok Pump sneaker made for the collaboration.
Case Size: 40 mm x 11.4 mm
Case Material: Forged quartz in white or black
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Rubber
Price: $39,900, limited to 250 pieces in each variation
Hermès H08 Squelette
Image Credit: Hermès
Hermès sharpens its horological ambitions this year with a skeletonized take on its H08—an evolution that signals where the maison is headed. While openworked watches can often skew overly ornate or illegible, creative director Philippe Delhotal leans into restraint, stripping the design back with an architectural, urban-inspired approach that keeps the dial clean and highly legible, aided by Super-Luminova-coated hands and numerals. Executed in titanium—lightweight but notoriously difficult to machine—the watch is powered by a new-generation caliber, the H1978S, which boosts the power reserve to 60 hours and is engineered for real-world durability, from 10-bar water resistance to shock and wear simulations equivalent to a decade of use. It’s a notable shift for Hermès, pairing its design-first ethos with increasingly robust mechanics, and arrives amid a broader investment in its Swiss manufacture—underscoring the brand’s growing ambition as a serious player in high watchmaking.
Case Size: 39 mm
Case Material: Titanium with black DLC coating
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Rubber
Price: $21,500
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Impact
Image Credit: Hublot
Never one to shy away from pushing materials to their limits, Hublot continues its experimental streak with the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Impact. The tonneau-shaped model debuts a first for the brand: diamonds set directly into sapphire, one of the hardest materials on Earth. Achieved through painstaking laser machining and hundreds of hours of finishing, the 20-piece Sapphire Jewellery edition features 145 fancy-cut diamonds radiating across the bezel and dial in the brand’s fragmented “Impact” motif. Two additional versions accompany it—a sapphire reference accented with rare crystallized osmium and an All Black ceramic edition marking the 20th anniversary of Hublot’s stealthy design concept—each powered by the skeletonized cal. HUB1770 automatic movement with moonphase and Big Date displays.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Sapphire crystal
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap: White-lined rubber strap
Price: $543,000
Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappe
Image Credit: Hublot
Blending football star power with high-performance watchmaking, Hublot teams up with French phenom (and brand ambassador) Kylian Mbappé for the new Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappé. Limited to 200 pieces, the chronograph reflects the forward’s signature blend of speed and confidence, pairing a 44 mm white ceramic case with a King Gold bezel engraved with his personal mantra: “Trust Yourself.” A skeletonized dial reveals the brand’s in-house HUB1280 Unico flyback chronograph movement—an integrated caliber known for its front-facing column wheel and robust construction—while subtle details reference Mbappé’s iconic No. 10. Delivered with interchangeable straps, the watch channels the energy of the pitch into Hublot’s unmistakable “Art of Fusion” design language.
Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: White ceramic
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Interchangeable fabric Velcro strap or black-and-white rubber strap
Price: $30,000
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Impact High Jewelry One Million
Image Credit: Hublot
If there’s one thing Hublot has never been shy about, it’s excess—and the new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Impact High Jewellery One Million leans into that reputation with gusto. Conceived as both a horological showpiece and a gem-setting tour de force, the watch surrounds its central flying tourbillon with a swirling “Impact” motif formed from nearly 500 diamonds totaling roughly 44.6 carats. Baguette- and fancy-cut stones radiate outward in a complex, three-dimensional architecture that requires hundreds of hours of meticulous setting. Housed in a 45 mm white gold Big Bang case and powered by the hand-wound cal. HUB9015 with a robust five-day power reserve, the result is a million-dollar statement piece that fuses high jewelry spectacle with serious watchmaking.
Case Size: 45 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Strap: Black rubber and alligator leather
Price: $1,205,000
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume
Image Credit: IWC
Though the good folks at IWC Schaffhausen are no strangers to exotic materials, the new Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume may be their most visually striking experiment yet. Limited to 250 pieces, the 46.5 mm watch debuts the brand’s proprietary luminous ceramic technology within its famous pilot’s watch line, blending ceramic powder with Super-LumiNova pigments to create a fully glowing case. Paired with a white luminous dial and matching rubber strap, the effect is dramatic: By day, you have a study in monochrome whites and greys; by night, an intense blue glow. Inside beats the manufacture Calibre 52616, whose Pellaton winding system delivers a considerable seven-day power reserve.
Case Size: 46.5 mm
Case Material: Ceralume luminous ceramic
Power Reserve: 168 hours
Strap: White luminous rubber
Price: $76,300
IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41
Image Credit: IWC
The Gérald Genta-inspired Ingenieur continues its modern revival at IWC with the new Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in titanium. Pairing the integrated-bracelet design with one of the brand’s most famous complications, it boasts a 41 mm Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet whose sandblasted and satin-finished surfaces emphasize the sharp geometry of the model’s lines. A matte grey “grid”-pattern dial hosts the calendar indications and moon phase, while inside beats the manufacture Calibre 82600 automatic movement with Pellaton winding and ceramic components for durability. The result is a surprisingly lightweight QP that feels entirely at home in a contemporary “luxury sports watch” context.
Case Size: 41.6 mm
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Integrated titanium bracelet
Price: $44,000
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince
Image Credit: IWC
The latest take on IWC’s storybook-themed “Le Petit Prince” line introduces a new generation of perpetual calendar technology. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince pairs a 42 mm stainless steel case with a deep blue dial and matching aesthetic cues that have long defined the series. Inside, the manufacture Calibre 82665 powers IWC’s new gear-based Perpetual Calendar ProSet system, which allows the calendar to be adjusted both forward and backward via the crown—a notable leap in usability for one of watchmaking’s most complex complications. A stainless steel bracelet with the EasX-CHANGE system is included, along with an additional blue rubber strap.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or Ceramic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet (additional blue rubber strap included) or white rubber strap
Price: $38,800 for steel; $41,600 for ceramic
IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince
Image Credit: IWC
The first Portofino to join the whimsical “Le Petit Prince” lineup from IWC Schaffhausen arrives in the form of the Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince. Housed in a compact 34 mm stainless steel case, the watch pairs a deep blue sunray dial with gold-plated hands and applied indices, giving the otherwise restrained dress watch a touch of warmth. At 6 o’clock, a rotating day-and-night display completes one full revolution every 24 hours, with the Little Prince himself standing atop the moon—a poetic nod to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s beloved tale. Powering the watch is the automatic IWC manufacture Calibre 35180.
Case Size: 34 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Blue calfskin strap
Price: $7,200
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date
Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
The new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date from Jaeger-LeCoultre showcases an impressive evolution of the brand’s Calibre 978, a movement that previously earned accolades in chronometry competitions. The 42 mm timepiece, housed in 18-karat pink gold, features an open-worked dial that prominently displays its intricate tourbillon and innovative jumping date mechanism. The deep blue enamel barleycorn patterned dial is complemented by applied hour markers and an independent 24-hour disc for an additional time zone. Limited to 100 pieces, this watch beautifully marries contemporary elegance with the technical mastery for which the “the watchmaker of watchmakers” is known.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: 18-karat pink gold
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price: TBC
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère
Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère marks a groundbreaking advancement in multi-axis tourbillon technology. Driven by Calibre 178, the distinctive-looking timepiece features a triple-axis tourbillon with exceptional precision, despite weighing a wispy 0.78 grams. As the inaugural release in the Hybris Inventiva line, it highlights single, unprecedented complications. The watch’s artistic essence is amplified by the Métiers Rares finishes, including guillochage and enamel, decorating the movement—so much so that it’s all but impossible to tell where the movement ends and the dial begins. Limited to just 20 pieces, the model epitomizes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legacy of horological excellence spanning nearly two centuries.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: TBC
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater
Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Let’s start with the simple fact of what Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon is: a flying tourbillon combined with a minute repeater in an astonishingly slim design, measuring just 5 mm thick within an 8.25 mm case. Notable features include artistic open-worked sapphire bridges that enhance visibility and a peripheral winding system that maintains its sleek profile. The watch’s fully integrated movement reflects the brand’s storied legacy in creating chiming watches and ultra-thin calibres. Made in just 10 examples, it’s the ultimate in horological rarities.
Case Size: 41.4 mm
Case Material: 18-karat pink gold
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Brown alligator leather
Price: TBC
Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller
Image Credit: Laurent Ferrier
The new Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller brings the Geneva-based brand’s refined take on travel watches into its contemporary Sport collection. Housed in a lightweight 42 mm Grade 5 titanium case with an integrated bracelet, the watch pairs a stealthy opaline anthracite dial with the brand’s signature Assegai-shaped hands and dual-time functionality. Local time can be adjusted instantly via two pushers on the case flank, allowing the hour hand to jump forward or backward in one-hour increments without stopping the movement. Powering the watch is the new LF275.01 micro-rotor automatic caliber, offering over three days of autonomy and finished to the meticulous standards expected of the maison.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Integrated Grade 5 titanium bracelet
Price: $49,000
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733
Image Credit: Panerai
If you prefer your watches to look old but function like new, the Luminor 8 Giorni from Panerai is for you. The model is housed in a new “Brunito” steel case—the name, Italian for “burnished,” refers to a surface treatment that mimics the appearance of an instrument aged over time. Inspired by a 1960s watch, Ref. 6152/1, the 44 mm piece, slimmed down from the original 47 mm, retains the Luminor’s iconic case construction. It also boasts an impressive eight days of power reserve, thanks to its hand-wound P.5000 manufacture calibre. For a timepiece that wears its history on the surface, there’s no question that the underlying mechanism is modern to its core.
Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Brunito steel case
Power Reserve: 8 days (192 hours)
Strap: Light brown calf leather
Price: $11,300
Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631
Image Credit: Panerai
If eight days of power reserve sound remarkable, try quadrupling that. The new Luminor 31 Giorni—engineered by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee, part of the research and development department at the brand’s Neuchâtel manufacture—builds upon the watchmaker’s decades-old legacy of producing tool watches with exceptional power reserves. Encased in Panerai Goldtech, a proprietary red-hued alloy made of gold and copper, with a dash of platinum and silver for improved hardness, the model runs on the brand’s new hand-wound skeleton movement, P.2031/S. Devised to provide a month of autonomous power, the mechanism requires precisely 128 turns of the crown before it’s fully wound.
Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Panerai Goldtech, a proprietary 18-karat red-gold alloy
Power Reserve: 31 days (744 hours)
Strap: Black alligator strap
Price: $107,000
Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732
Image Credit: Panerai
Panerai celebrates its 20th century roots as a supplier of timepieces to the Italian Navy with two new steel Luminors that bear all the hallmarks of the brand’s expertise in functional design, including robust cases, high-water resistance, luminous dials, and hand-wound movements built to take a beating. The only difference between the two is the placement of their crowns. The Destro edition features the crown and protective bridge on the left side of the case.
Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Polished steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Brown calf leather
Price: $9,200
Panerai Luminor PAM01735 and Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629
Image Credit: Panerai
Diehard Panerai fans will appreciate its two new 47 mm Luminor models. Not only are they throwbacks to the brand’s 1960s heyday as a naval supplier, they’re also reminiscent of its rediscovery in the late 1990s, when the Italian watchmaker kicked off the mania for oversized timepieces. The Luminor PAM01735, crafted in polished steel, features an ivory matte sandwich dial enhanced by a ‘tropical’ gradient varnish that evokes the charm of vintage dials. The limited-edition Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629, on the other hand, marks Panerai’s first execution in innovative forged titanium (note the distinctive wave-like pattern on its 47mm case). Both watches are powered by the robust P.3000 hand-wound movement, offering a three-day power reserve and core Luminor details, including, of course, the model’s iconic crown-protecting bridge.
Case Size: 47 mm
Case Material: Steel (PAM01735) and forged titanium (PAM01629)
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Brown and beige calf leather
Price: $12,400 (PAM01735) and $23,600 (PAM01629)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda FF Chronograph Mystérieux
Image Credit: Parmigiani
At first glance, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux looks almost disarmingly simple—a clean three-hander with the restrained elegance that defines the Tonda PF line. But press the monopusher at 7:30 and the watch reveals its trick: a chronograph that quite literally appears and disappears. The concept builds on an idea first explored in the 2022 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, whose second time-zone hand hides beneath the main hour hand until needed, preserving the dial’s minimalist aesthetic. Here, the new manufacture calibre PF053 deploys three rhodium-plated chronograph hands across the dial when activated, then withdraws them entirely when the sequence ends, restoring the watch to a serene display of civil time. It’s a clever rethinking of one of watchmaking’s most familiar complications—proof that even a chronograph can still surprise.
SPECS:Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: $44,600
Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon
Image Credit: Piaget
Long a pioneer of ultra-thin watchmaking, Piaget continues to push boundaries with the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. The headline release is a warm brown cobalt model paired with honey-hued tiger’s eye, integrating ornamental stone into the watch’s astonishing 2 mm-thick architecture—an engineering feat that requires the stone to be mounted directly onto structural movement components and finished with tools as fine as a 0.15 mm needle. Powering the timepiece is the manual-winding caliber 970P-UC, featuring a one-minute peripheral tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve. Beyond this flagship version, Piaget revives its 1960s “Style Selector” concept, offering clients a choice of case colors and ornamental stones—including tiger’s eye, blue sodalite, jade, and onyx—bringing a customizable decorative dimension to one of the world’s thinnest tourbillon watches.
Case Size: 41.5 mm
Case Material: Brown cobalt
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: Price upon request
Piaget Andy Warhol
Image Credit: Piaget
In 2024, Piaget officially renamed the Black Tie watch the “Andy Warhol” in recognition of its famous pop-artist owner, a noted Piaget collector who owned at least seven timepieces from the Swiss brand. Housed in a cushion-shaped case and often fitted with rare and striking stone dials, the elegant dress watch now features an in-house automatic movement, replacing the Beta 21 quartz calibre that powered the original models in the 1970s. This year, Piaget introduced three new references to expand the collection: the first, set in a 45 mm rose-gold case with concentric gadroons and baguette-cut diamonds, features a striking bronzite dial; two others—one in 18-karat pink gold with a Clous de Paris bezel and a chatoyant bull’s-eye dial, and another in 18-karat pink gold with a gadroon bezel and a blue quartz dial—are equally compelling.
Case Size: 45 mm
Case Material: Pink or rose gold
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Alligator leather strap
Price: $TBD
Piaget Polo 79
Image Credit: Piaget
Few watches capture the unapologetic glamour of the late ’70s and ’80s quite like the Piaget Polo 79, first introduced in 1979 as a bold “bracelet watch” whose signature gadroons flowed seamlessly across case, dial, and bracelet. Revived in 2024 by Piaget in full yellow gold—and followed by a white gold version in 2025 and a two-tone version in early 2026—the model continues its modern comeback with a fresh white-gold execution. Here, the 38 mm case and integrated bracelet are rendered entirely in 18-karat white gold and paired with a rich blue sodalite dial accented by polished gadroons, giving the design a cooler, more contemporary feel while preserving the Polo’s unmistakable architecture. Inside beats Piaget’s ultra-thin automatic caliber 1200P, a micro-rotor movement that underscores the brand’s longstanding mastery of slim mechanical watchmaking.
Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: 18K white gold
Power Reserve: 44 hours
Strap: Integrated 18K white gold bracelet
Price: $TBD
Piaget Sixtie High Jewelry Cuff
Image Credit: Piaget
Since the 1960s, Piaget has used vibrant hardstone dials to transform watches into miniature works of art, a tradition now revived across its latest high-jewelry creations. Among them is the Sixtie High Jewelry Cuff, which reinterprets the Maison’s softly trapezoidal Sixtie design as a sculptural cuff watch rendered in rose gold. The 26 × 24mm case features the Swiss firm’s signature Décor Palace engraving and diamonds, framing an iridescent opal dial whose shifting colors echo the free-spirited glamour of the Piaget Society era. Paired with an articulated bracelet and powered by a manufacture quartz movement, it’s a vivid reminder that for Piaget, horology has long been inseparable from the art of jewelry-making.
Case Size: 26 × 24 mm
Case Material: Rose gold with diamonds
Power Reserve: N/A (quartz)
Strap: Articulated bracelet
Price: $TBD
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis has taken the Excalibur to astronomical new heights. The latest perpetual calendar to join the flagship collection features an astronomical moonphase display at 6 o’clock that tracks the Moon’s orbital cycle around Earth, showing its waxing and waning almost exactly as it appears in the sky. Inside the 40 mm pink-gold case lies a new in-house automatic movement (Caliber RD850) that combines a revamped perpetual calendar with a fresh month corrector and the signature biretrograde display with the astronomical moonphase complication. The latter follows the lunar cycle much more closely than the standard moonphase mechanism—29 days, 12 hours, and 45 minutes versus an approximate 29.5 days—meaning it will stay accurate for around 122 years rather than two or three. The newcomer, as with all models in the Roger Dubuis lineup, has earned Poinçon de Genève certification, signifying top-tier construction, finishing, and performance.
Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: 18-karat pink gold
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: “Astral Blue” calfskin leather
Price: TBC
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Image Credit: Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis is reaching for the stars at Watches & Wonders this year, unveiling new novelties inspired by the sky above. This particular steel piece is a fresh take on the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar that the maison released in Geneva last year, featuring a new “Cosmic Blue” hue on the dial that represents the sky darkening from day to night. As with the original model, the newcomer pays homage to the biretrograde display that debuted in 1996. The “bi” in biretrograde reflects the two indications working in tandem to show the day and date, with angled skeletonized hands moving along the elliptic scales before immediately returning to zero at the end of their cycle. Parts of the in-house automatic movement (Caliber RD840) can be spotted on the dial, contrasting the blue and complementing the steel case and bracelet like a shining star in the night sky.
Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Stainless steel
Price: TBC
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
Image Credit: TAG Heuer
With the Monaco Evergraph, TAG Heuer pushes its signature square chronograph into decidedly experimental territory. Powered by the new Calibre TH80-00, the watch introduces a compliant chronograph mechanism built around flexible bi-stable components that replace many of the traditional levers and springs used to start, stop, and reset the chronograph. Developed within the TAG Heuer Lab and realized in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the movement beats at 5 Hz and features the brand’s TH-Carbonspring oscillator for enhanced magnetic resistance. The openworked architecture places the barrel, gear train, and escapement dial-side, transforming the Monaco’s familiar square silhouette into a technical showcase for the brand’s latest experimentation.
Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium (natural or black DLC-coated)
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Rubber strap
Price: $TBD
Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak
Image Credit: Laurent Xavier Moulin
Time-only watches, by nature, are simple, conveying just time and no more, but Ulysse Nardin doesn’t do simple. The Swiss watchmaker has unveiled a new version of its flagship timepiece, the avant-garde Freak, which it claims is the most complicated time-only watch ever made. With a name that would make Rick James proud, the [Super] Freak is equipped with an entirely new in-house movement comprising the world’s first automatic double tourbillon, the first seconds display of any Freak, and, of course, the signature flying carousel with a transparent blue hour disc. Powering those complications is a newly patented “Grinder” system, which Ulysse Nardin says is the most efficient automatic winding system ever developed. Four years in the making, the new model is also fitted with the world’s smallest gimbal and vertical differential, both of which improve overall performance. Each timepiece is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker over 60 hours, with more than 70 percent of the components finished by hand. It will be limited to just 50 examples.
Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: White gold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Gray rubber
Price: Limited to 50, $361,600
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Calibre 2550
Image Credit: Vacheron Constantin
Seven years in the making, Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Calibre 2550 follows the direct lineage of the Caliber 1120 once housed in the Overseas Ultra-Thin 2000V that collectors have been begging the brand to bring back. Its predecessor was a boutique-only edition and came in white gold. The new release ups the ante in platinum with a salmon dial in 39.5 mm.
The new Calibre 2550 measures just 2.4 mm, about the thickness of two stacked credit cards. But don’t let its extreme thinness fool you. The mechanism packs quite a bit into its slender format, including an innovative architecture combining a micro-rotor, a suspended double barrel and a compact single-level gear train—not to mention 80 hours of power reserve. With its clean dial sans date and its fancy new dressings, the piece is the embodiment of classic gentlemanly style.
Case Size: 39.5 mm
Case Material: 950 Platinum
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Dark beige alligator strap
Price: $120,000
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Image Credit: Vacheron Constantin
The Historiques American 1921 is a dress watch of distinction. Based on a small series of driving watches introduced to the American market in 1921, at the outset of the Roaring Twenties, the model was housed in a cushion-shape case and featured an unusual dial, offset by 45 degrees from the standard perpendicular—all the better for seeing the time when your hands are on the steering wheel. Reintroduced in 2008, the modern Historiques collection now includes 18-karat pink gold editions measuring 36.5 mm and 40 mm with a new grained silver dial featuring blue markings and hands, introducing a new generation of drivers to the collection’s “classic with a twist” style.
Case Size: 36.5 mm and 40 mm
Case Material: 18-karat pink gold
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Dark blue calf leather
Price: $45,000 for 40 mm, $37,200 for 36.5 mm
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Image Credit: Vacheron Constantin
Thirty years after its introduction, Vacheron Constantin’s seminal Overseas collection welcomes four new dual time models that celebrate the notion of travel. Offered in a choice of four dial colors symbolizing the cardinal compass points (white = north, brown = south, green = west and blue = east), the pieces are crafted entirely in titanium. They continue a tradition that started in 2019, when the brand introduced an Overseas Dual Time prototype in a titanium case with a dark grey grained dial, created for photographer and explorer Cory Richards, who tested it during his ascent of Mount Everest. Due to collector demand, the brand followed up in 2021 with the Overseas “Everest” Dual Time and Chronograph limited to just 150 pieces. This introduction finally heralds the unlimited production (of course, getting your hands on one, however, still won’t come easily.) The Cardinal Points editions are equipped with a manufacture movement, Calibre 5110 DT/3, that displays two time zones, AM/PM, and the date. Symbolically speaking, they herald a new direction at Vacheron Constantin.
Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Titanium
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Titanium bracelet and two rubber straps
Price: $41,300
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Retrouvailles Célestes and Lady Rencontre Céleste
Image Credit: Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels has an affinity for a romantic story to depict in its Poetry of Time pieces and this year it turns to the East Asian tale of Vega and Altair (or Niulang and Zhinu). In the love story, Vega, a weaver princess, and Altair, a cowherd, fall deeply in love and, as a result, neglect their duties. As punishment, they are separated by the Milky Way and allowed to reunite only once a year, on the seventh day of the seventh month. Their story is celebrated during Tanabata, when people write wishes on paper strips and hang them on bamboo to mark their brief celestial reunion.
In Lady Recontre Céleste (or Lady Celestial Encounter), the scene of the two lovers uniting is depicted against a star-studded sky with the their hands clasped together. The white-gold figures are surrounded by sparkling clouds set in plique-à-jour enamel and dotted with diamonds. Their faces are formed by two rose-cut diamonds and they gaze at each other beneath a diamond-set moon. The dial is adorned in glazed champlevé and grisaille enamel, a sapphire crescent, and beads executed in miniature painting. The scene of the manual-winding watch is framed in a white-gold case set with diamonds. Its counterpart, Lady Retrouvailles Céleste (or Lady Heavenly Reunion) depicts the white-gold and diamond-accented figures with their arms outstretches as if anticpating their reunion. Here they are placed in a scene of mauves and pinks with a dial in champlevé enamel, a crescent in mauve sapphires, and clouds in plique-à-jour enamel and diamonds set in enamel. This love scene comes set in an 18-karat yellow gold and diamond case.
They may be unapologetically feminine, but these timepieces are rooted in the best of Switzerland’s centuries old métiers d’art techniques.
Case Size: TBC
Case Material: 18-karat white gold for the Lady Rencontre Céleste and 18-karat yellow gold for the Lady Retrouvailles Céleste
Power Reserve: TBC
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: Price upon request
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret
Image Credit: Van Cleef & Arpels
The Ludo traces back to 1934 at Van Cleef, when the maison introduced the bracelet under artistic director Renée Puissant, naming it after Louis “Ludo” Arpels. Inspired by a belt, its articulated links and buckle clasp also sometimes concealed a secret watch. Last year, the house brought a Ludo timepiece in the same 18-karat yellow-gold form accented in pink sapphires around the Art Deco curves (squeezing them together reveals the mother-of-pearl dial beneath). Now its come with a version in blue sapphires. It may be an easy update, but the coveted watch is quite hard to come by.
Case Size: N/A
Case Material: 18-karat yellow gold
Power Reserve: N/A quartz movement
Strap: 18-karat yellow-gold bracelet
Price: Upon request
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Image Credit: Van Cleef & Arpels
Within the 42 mm white-gold Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune case is the signature poetic day–night display seen in previous models in the Jour Nuit collection, but this time it comes paired with a technically precise lunar complication. As the guilloché golden sun yields to a white mother-of-pearl moon across a murano-glass aventurine sky via a 24-hour rotating disc, the Moon itself subtly shifts to reflect its true 29.5-day cycle. Even when hidden behind the dial’s horizon, the Moon can be summoned on demand via a pusher, triggering a full rotation of the dial to reveal its current phase—an interplay of astronomical accuracy and theatrical animation that defines the maison’s approach to horology.
Although unisex in design, the size of the timepiece suggests this year, Van Cleef & Arpels was perhaps thinking of something for its male clientele or those looking with larger wrists. It still offers some of the storytelling the house is known for but in the paired-down design of this particular collection. Turn it over and the watch offers a perspective of the cosmos from the lunar vantage point, with an engraved white-gold caseback evoking the Moon’s topography and a sapphire crystal—set over the oscillating weight—painted with Earth and miniature planets against a guilloché backdrop.
Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Power Reserve: TBC
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: Price upon request
Van Cleef & Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs
Image Credit: Van Cleef & Arpels
The Van Cleef & Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs dual time zone watch with jumping hours and a retrograde minutes mechanism was designed by Pierre Arpels in 1949, but its modern design has endured decades since. The latest iteration takes some of the design codes of the current collection with a white gold case and white dial and introduces some subtle and not so subtle twists. Now housed in an 18-karat rose-gold case, the two hour apertures are now framed in 18-karat rose gold trapezoidal shapes instead of the circular openings of its predecessor. The automatic movement was also entirely redeveloped to offer 65 hours of power reserve instead of 48 hours.
But what immediately captures the attention is the richly colored dial. The company’s in-house enamellers began by looking at precious stones, specifically rubies, which exhibit cool tones underneath despite outwardly warm hues. After many tests, they were able to replicate this duality in a deep amber-brown executed in enamel. The result is a captivating tone that shifts with the light. At 38 mm, this is another male-skewed offering from the house this year.
Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve: 64 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: Price upon request
Zenith G.F.J. Bloodstone & Tantalum
Image Credit: Zenith
Following the award-winning debut of the G.F.J. in 2025, Zenith expands the chronometry-focused collection with two distinct executions built around the revived Calibre 135. The 39.5 mm watch—a modern re-engineering of the legendary observatory-trial movement—appears in a warm 18-karat yellow-gold model with a bloodstone dial and in a far rarer tantalum edition limited to just 20 pieces featuring a black onyx center and diamond indices. In both cases, the hand-wound movement retains its oversized balance, Breguet overcoil, and classical architecture while delivering COSC-certified precision and a healthy 72-hour power reserve—proof that midcentury chronometry still has plenty to say in the modern era.
Case Size: 39.5 mm
Case Material: Yellow gold or tantalum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: $51,900 (gold); $83,400 (tantalum)
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Skeleton Chronograph
Image Credit: Zenith
If there’s one movement synonymous with high-frequency chronographs, it’s the El Primero—and with the new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton, Zenith puts its most famous engine fully on display. The 41 mm chronograph features a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the openworked Calibre 3600SK, whose 5 Hz beat rate allows the central chronograph hand to circle the dial every 10 seconds for direct reading of 1/10th-second intervals via the ceramic bezel. The model arrives in several executions: two stainless steel versions with black or green ceramic bezels, a rose-gold reference on rubber, and a 10-piece rose-gold limited edition set with baguette-cut diamonds. It would seem that skeletonization can indeed be synonymous with elegance!
Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap (depending on version)
Price: $16,700+
Zenith Chronomaster Sport MOP
Image Credit: Zenith
Two-tone chronographs have long walked a fine line between sport and dress—and with the latest Chronomaster Sport, Zenith leans into that duality. Limited to just 50 pieces, the 41 mm model pairs a stainless steel case with an 18-karat rose-gold bezel, crown, and pushers, while a luminous mother-of-pearl dial plays host to the brand’s signature overlapping tri-color registers. Inside beats the high-frequency El Primero 3600 automatic chronograph, complete with a column-wheel and horizontal clutch architecture visible through the sapphire caseback, as well as a silicon escape wheel for improved durability and precision. The result is a versatile take on the brand’s flagship chronograph that balances mechanical pedigree with a touch of polish.
Case Size: 41 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Two-tone steel and rose-gold bracelet (additional rubber strap included)
Price: $20,100