You gotta give props to A. Lange & Söhne. For a showcase at the year’s largest watchmaking event, the big brands tend to be zealous with their novelty releases. Thus, in a ocean of novelties released by a plethora of watch Maisons, A. Lange & Söhne stands out with two—count ’em—two releases. The output is minimal, but the technicality that goes into the pieces places German watchmaking front and centre.

LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Lumen”

LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Lumen” in the day.

LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Lumen” in the dark. Unn-TSS, unn-TSS, unn-TSS, unn-TSS.

While the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR model is recognisable by the unique position of its asymmetrical display, the “lumen” edition puts the watch in a completely new light.

You have the time display is on the right of the watch; the outsized date at 11 o’clock; the moon phase/day-night indicator at 7; the months ringed the dial; the retrograde day-of-week display between 7 to 10 o’clock; hell, there’s even the leap year display at 6. You get to see how the magic work—the movements—through a semi-transparent dial.

Furthering its contrast, the shine of its platinum case accentuates the dark dial and strap (with a quick-lock buckle in 950 platinum). The rhodiumed gold and white hands and appliques stand out from the background. And then comes the crème de la crème: the glow.

While it isn’t the first time A. Lange & Söhne has played with lumen (DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON HONEYGOLD “Lumen”), the brand utilised this effect far better, like the stars in the moon-phase display that shine with purpose. Not only do the displays, with their interplay of pieces, showcase a nuanced ambience of light, the dial’s transparency allows UV light to charge the luminous compound of the underlying displays and causes them to glow in the dark.

Measuring 41.9mm by 13mm, the timepiece comes with a L225.1 automatic movement, and a 50-hour power reserve. Only 50 pieces are available worldwide.

SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR

SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR; now in white and pink gold.

The duality of the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR carries on to the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR, now in white and pink gold variants. You still have the easy read of the time and date on a legible dial.

The auxiliary dial showing the day of the week lies at 9 o’clock, the month at 3, the seconds display and moonphase display at 6, while the big date resides in the heavens of the dial. All subdials are bevelled inward.

Redesigned Baton appliques and the prominent lancet-shaped hands sweep the face. Calendar indications and the moonphase display can be operated with individual correctors or collectively advanced by the pusher at 10 o’clock.

Measuring 36mm by 9.8mm, the timepiece is powered by a self-winding L207.1 calibre. When fully wound, you’re assured a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire-crystal caseback becomes a window to moving parts like the hand-engraved balance cock and screwed gold chatons.