In 1927, the mines were officially closed, capping the supply of Kashmir sapphires forever. Their desirability stems from their rarity and the distinctive deep ‘velvety’ blue colour that appears luminous in any light. ‘This Chaumet ring is a beautiful example, so we expect it to attract a lot of attention,’ says Berden.
Cartier animal jewels
The sale also includes a selection of Cartier animal jewels, among them a pair of late-20th-century Cartier ‘Tiger’ cuffs. The ‘big cat’ motif first appeared in Cartier’s design vocabulary in 1914 by means of an onyx-spotted panther-pattern wristwatch created by the designer Charles Jacqueau. It was Jeanne Toussaint, however, who transformed it into a 20th-century icon.
Toussaint — nicknamed ‘The Panther’ by Louis Cartier, in reference to the panther-skin rugs that decorated her apartment — worked with the designer Peter Lemarchand to create a wide array of two- and three-dimensional ‘big cat’ jewels. By the late 1940s, these jewels, which had expanded to incorporate designs featuring the tiger as well as the panther, were must-have accessories for royals, A-listers and style icons, including Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes and Nina Dyer. The motif has been reimagined many times since, as in this striking pair of Tiger cuffs set with onyx, diamonds and coloured diamonds.