To mark a one-year magical milestone known as a ‘rebirth day’ following my life-saving stem cell transplant, my fiancé Jim and I set off on a short break to Geneva, where we stayed for two nights at the Hotel d’Angleterre, a five-star Red Carnation property overlooking Lake Geneva and the famous Jet d’Eau fountain.
The hotel was built in 1872 by architect Anthony Krafft, meaning it has stood on the lakefront for more than 150 years. Now part of The Red Carnation Hotel Collection, owned by the Tollman family, it blends British charm with Swiss refinement in a way that feels effortless, with staff speaking a variety of languages including English, French and German.
From the moment we stepped through the doors of d’Angleterre, it felt jaw-droppingly elegant but also calm, personal and so welcoming that, despite its grandeur, we were made to feel at home.
In our stunning suite, I discovered a handwritten card from the hotel’s management, along with a beautiful, gift-wrapped notebook addressed to me. As someone who makes a living from words, that little gift felt especially meaningful and set the tone for our stay.
Emma Hetherington and fiancé Jim enjoyed a short break at the Hotel d’Angleterre in Geneva
Our visit began in style with champagne afternoon tea in Windows Restaurant. Everything about it was perfect, from the delicate china to the gleaming silver pots, and with miniature pastries and sandwiches arranged like jewels, it was almost too good to eat.
Outside, through the tall windows, the world-famous lake shimmered across the road in the afternoon light as we watched joggers go past, as well as a lady pushing a pram while on roller skates beneath a bright blue sky, even if the hotel staff remarked with us on how cold they found it outside!
Exterior of the Hotel D’Angleterre, Geneva
Having left the greyer skies of Tyrone behind, we were eager to get out and explore, so we wandered slowly through the Old Town, taking in its narrow lanes lined with art galleries and independent boutiques, stopping for dinner al fresco before turning in for an early night.
The water jet fountain in the lake of Geneva, Switzerland (VogelSP/Getty Images/iStockphoto)
The following morning, we were spoiled at breakfast where I enjoyed succulent salmon with eggs Benedict, setting me up to explore the vast, colourful jumble of trinkets, vintage pieces and handmade crafts in the city’s Wednesday market.
I soon took advantage of a bench with coffee in hand while Jim browsed for Swiss gems, and from there I listened to stall traders’ banter and watched locals search for a bargain. Every writer loves to people-watch, so I was in no hurry to move on.
People often describe Geneva as expensive, and near the lake that’s true, but just a few streets away we found cafés and shops with gentler prices. It reminded me of Paris in that sense, in that when you move away from the postcard spots, you can still find other parts of the city that are equally alive and accessible.
Back at our hotel via a cruise across the river, we were reminded that what sets d’Angleterre apart isn’t just its enviable location or five-star polish.
Under the direction of General Manager Jean-Vital Domezon, who has been with the hotel for more than twenty years, the philosophy is simple, with a motto that aims to make luxury feel personal. And it truly does.
The Beatrice Suite, Hotel D’Angleterre, Geneva (cmp)
Corinna, the hotel’s sales manager, kindly offered us a behind-the-scenes tour. She showed us the elegant and intimate Cigar Room, the only one of its kind in Geneva, complete with discreet vents in the ceiling and floor. Corinna spoke fondly of the hotel’s heritage and of past guests, from Celine Dion to Michael Jackson, yet every story was told with warmth rather than grandeur.
We had a sneak peek into a huge suite which was being refurbished. It’s now open and known as The Beatrice Room, a high-end experience that reflects the true essence of the Red Carnation group — effortless elegance and the finest hospitality — and features paintings by Picasso and more. It’s clear the team takes pride not just in the hotel’s luxury reputation but in how it makes people feel.
Each of the 45 individually designed rooms and suites has its own character. Some are rich and traditional, others more contemporary, but all share the same sense of quiet comfort.
The highlight of our visit came when manager Jean-Vital invited us through a secret door up to the rooftop, an area usually closed to guests. From the dizzying heights, we were able to truly appreciate the vastness of the lake, the shimmer of the Jet d’Eau and, on the horizon, the snow-tipped peaks of the Alps.
The Leopard Lounge, Hotel D’Angleterre, Geneva
As Jean-Vital pointed out landmarks and shared snippets of the city’s history, his gesture and generosity with his time made me emotional. A year ago, I was fighting a huge health battle, and there I was, standing above one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, so grateful to be there and able to take it all in.
D’Angleterre is also looking to the future, he explained, working with sustainability experts EarthCheck on its journey to net-zero emissions by using local suppliers and smart waste-reduction systems to ensure luxury and responsibility go hand in hand.
We returned to our room overwhelmed with gratitude, not only for the care and attention from Corinna and Jean-Vital, but with a deep sense of thanks for the opportunity to be there.
That evening, we dressed for dinner and took our seats in Windows Restaurant, which offers sweeping views of the lake and Mont Blanc beyond. Our waiter matched each course with a carefully chosen glass of wine, explaining the pairings as he poured. It turned a succulent meal of Japanese steak, mixed greens and seasonal potatoes into something truly memorable. The dishes were beautifully balanced, while the service was unhurried and full of quiet confidence.
The Cigar Lounge, Hotel D’Angleterre, Geneva
With hearts and bellies full, we slipped downstairs for a peek into the famous Leopard Bar, Geneva’s go-to spot for live jazz and limited-edition cocktails. A three-piece band, led by Julien, winner of The Voice, played smooth covers as we settled in. The lighting was low, the atmosphere easy and relaxed and, while I was exhausted, I couldn’t resist a good look around to soak up the vibe.
The Leopard cocktails are genuinely legendary. Sitting at a discreet table for two, we spent longer than we intended people-watching and admiring the glamour. It’s the kind of place where you never know who might walk through the door next, with a mix of locals, travellers and the occasional famous face. With its leopard-print décor from floor to ceiling, there was a captivating sense of theatre about it all. We were in our element!
When the time came to check out early the next morning, every member of staff wished us well by name, with concierge Raphaelle walking us right outside to the corner of the hotel to point us in the right direction for the train.
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Geneva has a quiet charm that stays with you, and d’Angleterre embodies that perfectly. Even the practicalities impressed us, as public transport is free for anyone staying in the city, so exploring was easy and stress-free.
This trip, for me, was a reminder of how to feel alive again, surrounded by kindness, beauty and grace, marking an unforgettable milestone of resilience and gratitude.
D’Angleterre may be defined by its luxury, heritage and style, but it’s the warmth of its exceptional people and deeply memorable personal touch that truly makes it shine.
The facts:
Hotel d’Angleterre, GenevaQuai du Mont-Blanc 17, 1201 Geneva, SwitzerlandTel: +41 (0)22 906 55 55 https://dangleterrehotel.com/ Instagram: @hoteldangleterregva
Rooms from CHF 719 (£680) per night B&B.
Getting there: We flew from Dublin directly to Geneva with Aer Lingus. The hotel is 15 minutes from Geneva Airport, with a complimentary boat shuttle service across the lake.