With free lift passes for under-sixes and communal barbecues next to pistes, Branäs is ideal for a families who don’t want to spend a fortune on a ski trip
A trippy heat haze shimmers above the snowy, tree-lined slopes as smoke rises into the crisp April sunshine. We’re sitting by a communal barbecue next to a ski run in Sweden’s Branäs resort, cooking lunch. As our hotdogs sizzle and drinks cans hiss open, it strikes me how relaxed this family ski trip feels.
Unlike most Alpine resorts, the Nordics have a picnic-friendly approach on the slopes, with tables and fire pits (plus free, chopped and dried wood) dotted around. This means we can embrace the Nordic concept of Friluftsliv (spending time outdoors), while shaving pounds off the food budget. For our family of five – the children aged five, 10 and 12 – these laid-back pit stops in the fresh, open air beat squeezing into a crowded restaurant for a pricey plat du jour.
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Scandinavia, once considered a niche and expensive skiing destination compared to the buzzing Alps, is surging in popularity as British skiers increasingly seek cheaper prices and fewer crowds. As the cost of ski passes heads north of €70 (£61) per day in the Alps, they generally cost less than £50 in Swedish resorts. In Branäs, a five-day lift pass is Skr2,515 (£206).
We began our trip in Oslo, where we hired a car costing just over £300 for the week (a similar price to car hire in the Alps). Branäs, situated in Varmland, western Sweden, is around 170km (105 miles) and less than three hours’ drive from the Norwegian capital. Driving from Stockholm and Gothenburg would have taken more than five hours.
However, as international demand for the Nordics increases, access to the region’s ski resorts is improving. EasyJet launched flights from Gatwick and Manchester to Scandinavian Mountains Airport this winter, joining SAS and Tui which also offer routes from the UK. The airport is just over an hour’s drive from Branäs.
These laid-back pit stops in the fresh, open air beat squeezing into a crowded restaurant (Photo: Branäs Group)
We found the scenic, three-hour drive from Oslo worthwhile. Passing rolling hills studded with traditional red wooden houses among forests and signs warning of wild moose, we stopped at Charlottenbergs Shoppingcenter near the Norway-Sweden border where Norwegians flock for lower prices on groceries, alcohol and confectionery. Our plan was to stock up on cheaper food and drink for the trip, avoiding the limited supplies and hefty prices often found at on-site supermarkets.
It was evening by the time we arrived in Branäs, and while the skiing had stopped for the day, my children were delighted to see sledges whizzing down the floodlit nursery slope. I was impressed that they were being supervised by lift attendants and free of charge for the children. After unpacking the car, we went straight off to join them, just steps from our apartment.
Frequently voted Sweden’s best family ski resort, Branäs is home to 33 ski lifts –including a gondola and three express lifts – with snow parks, two family areas and extra activities such as sledding, toboggan runs and cross-country skiing.
The resort has been recognised as the most family-friendly in Sweden (Photo: Branäs Group)
Divided into two main, interconnected areas – Branäsdalen (the valley base) and Branäsberget (the mountain top) – the resort has a wealth of accommodation ranging from modern apartments to cosy cabins, and a choice of restaurants and bars offering après-ski.
We stayed at the valley end in a central, ski-in-ski-out apartment, with our own sauna and slope-facing balcony. With two bedrooms, it cost £1,200 for a week, compared to a similar style apartment in Morzine that would have cost us £1,600.
We spent the first few days at the base, letting the children gain confidence. But once they found their ski legs, we ventured up to the mountainside to try the more challenging slopes and check out the summit views.
Around three quarters of the runs are blue and green, making Branäs a perfect choice for beginners and young families. Known for its advanced snowmaking systems, the resort promises a reliable season from December to April. We went during the Easter holidays, and the snow conditions proved decent. The same cannot always be said for spring skiing in the Alps, when snow can be slushy on bluebird afternoons.
There are plenty of green and blue runs for learning and building confidence (Photo: Branäs Group)
A highlight of the trip was the child-focused approach on and off the slopes. From the ski lessons and ski lifts to the restaurants and accommodation, there was a noticeable emphasis on making sure the children – and consequently parents – felt relaxed and happy. Playrooms in all the restaurants, free hot juice on the slopes and ski gear delivered direct to your accommodation (letting you avoid those first day queues at the ski rental shop) carry weight in a family’s first foray into skiing.
By the end of the week, we felt our wallets were lighter than they would have been if we had chosen a popular resort in the Alps.
We had saved on lift passes – Branäs offers free lift passes for children under six, meaning our youngest could ski for free. A six-day lift pass cost £161 for our older child and £210 for adults. This works out cheaper than Les Deux Alpes, a popular family-friendly resort in the South of France, where a six-day pass costs £227 for a child and £283 for teenagers and adults.
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Our apartment was so appealingly Scandi-chic that we enjoyed slashing the food budget by dining in most nights, replacing après-ski for sauna sessions and card games on the balcony.
And with all our picnics on the slopes, we saved on the eye-watering bill that comes from dining as a family-of-five at a mountain restaurant. However, we did venture out a couple of evenings to Brants Restaurant for pizza (costing about £12 each) where the children loved the epic playroom.
A younger me might have baulked at the prospect of gentle slopes and cosy nights in. But as a mum wanting little legs to learn the basics and kindle a life-long love for skiing, swapping the flashy melee of the Alps for laid-back Friluftsliv did just the trick.
How to get there
SAS, Tui and easyJet fly to Scandinavian Mountains Airport. Oslo is served by British Airways, SAS and Norwegian.
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