Updated August 1, 2025 03:32PM
After four rolling miles along Lac des Dix, a reservoir in southwest Switzerland with the tallest gravity dam in the world, we began the abrupt climb towards Col de Reidmatten. The trail soon lost its uniformity, braiding upwards at a thousand feet per mile through boulder fields. The verticality reduced our pace to a brisk walk and our conversations to short spurts between inhales, while a peanut gallery of marmots chirped at us to get away from their dens.
We reached the col an hour later, pulling on a steel chain bolted to the rock wall to ascend the final few hundred meters. The top, barely big enough for the four of us, offered sprawling views of the mountains to the east, including the pyramidal peak of the Matterhorn. It’s a moment that’s etched into my memory forever.
It was the second afternoon of a six-day hut-to-hut running trip on the Via Valais, a 150-mile, high-mountain route linking Verbier to Zermatt. I was there with three routine travel partners, two-time Olympian and Boston Marathon winner Des Linden, her husband Ryan, and Olympian and Western States champ Magda Boulet.
The final climb to the Aguiles Roge hut high above the Arolla Valley in southwest Switzerland. (Photo: Andy Cochrane)
And we weren’t far from our destination, the Aiguilles Rouges hut, perched on a craggy knoll high above the Arolla Valley. After a steep descent past a ski resort filled with wildflowers, we traversed below the remnants of two receding glaciers before reaching the stone building. We were greeted by the host family barking at us in French. A minute or two of cross-linguistic charades ensued before they grew tired of our antics and called their son, who spoke better English. He found our reservation and offered us warm showers and a cold beer. In other words, everything we could ask for.
The juxtaposition between recreation and relaxation is what makes running in the Swiss Alps so special. The trails, despite being around for centuries, are grueling and relentless. The lunch stops at mountain huts for cappuccinos and pastries are anything but. As I would scribble in my journal that night, a hut-to-hut trip in Switzerland is “equal parts suffering and thriving.”
Each valley along the Via Valais has its own flavor, with plenty of surprises along the way—tunnels, ladders, suspension bridges, and long miles of empty trails. Photo: Andy CochraneThe Via Valais Route and Huts
Having run a handful of hut-to-hut routes, including Alta Via 3 in the Dolomites, GR20 in Corsica, and Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) around the Mont Blanc Massif in France, Italy, and Switzerland, I have a decent understanding of what they include and what they generally do not. Some, like the TMB, are quite popular, upscale, and need to be booked months ahead. Others, like the Via Valais are less traveled, higher in the mountains, and more simple in nature.
Created just three years ago, I was confident the 150-mile route from Verbier to Zermatt would be a good fit for our skills and endurance. Traveling with these three close (and very fit) friends, we modified the nine-day itinerary to fit our six-day timeline, compressing a few of the shorter days into single long outings.
For those with less experience in the Alps or less comfort building routes, Chamonix-based company Run The Alps offers guided tours on this route and many others. That said, Swiss trails are well marked with red and white blazes every hundred meters and signposts at almost every trail intersection, making them easy to follow. If you’re comfortable with navigation apps like Gaia GPS, you’ll likely be fine on your own.
The Via Valais meanders through the Valais province, home to many of the country’s tallest mountains, steepest climbs, and most remarkable views. Each valley has its own flavor, with plenty of surprises along the way—tunnels, ladders, suspension bridges, and long miles of empty trails. Thanks to huts like Turtmann, Moiry, and Becs de Bosson that offer breakfast, dinner, and cots to sleep in at night, we were able to run with just 15-liter packs, helping us go faster and farther every day.
Trains, Planes, and No Automobiles
The Via Valais meanders through the Valais province, home to many of the country’s tallest mountains, steepest climbs, and most remarkable views. (Photo: Andy Cochrane)
After our trans-Atlantic flights landed in Geneva, Switzerland, we walked down two escalators to the underground train station, waited twenty-odd minutes, and hopped on the train to Verbier (we purchased tickets beforehand, which is quick and easy to do online). The Swiss train system, the SBB, is timely, easy to use, and affordable, not to mention a unique way to see the countryside. The ride, including two transfers, took around three hours to get to Le Chable before a short gondola up to Verbier, our starting point.
Early the next morning we dropped our larger luggage at the hotel front desk and off we went. The hotel brought the bags to the train station in the valley, where they were shuttled to our hotel in Zermatt on the SBB. We were somewhat skeptical this would work out, but took the chance anyway and sure enough, our bags were waiting for us when we finished our run six days later.
On our final day in Switzerland we took the train from Zermatt back to Geneva, again without issues. Collectively, this meant we were able to avoid the stress of renting a car and navigating a foreign country, let alone figuring out how to get the car from Verbier to Zermatt while we were running. I’d recommend the SBB for any trip like this, even for those who aren’t super familiar with public transit.
The 150-mile route packs about 40,000 feet of climbing. Photo: Andy CochraneTrails and Technicality
There are around 320 mountain huts in Switzerland, with 153 run by the Swiss Alpine Club—including half of the huts on the Via Valias. Combine this with 40,000 miles of trail spider-webbing across a country the size of Maryland and you have an almost infinite amount of trip possibilities (and contingency options, if needed).
Both Verbier and Zermatt sit right around 5,000 feet in elevation, while a number of the cols and huts along this route—Aguiles Rouge, Becs de Bosson, and Moiry, for example— are perched at 9,000 feet or higher. For those coming from lower elevations, you’ll likely feel the lack of oxygen on climbs and need to adjust your pace accordingly. However, the thin air is not the hardest part of this route.
The final, technical ascent up Col de Reidmatten. (Photo: Andy Cochrane)
The Via Valais has a handful of steep, technical passes to negotiate. These trails, like many in Switzerland, have fewer switchbacks than those in the U.S. The Swiss prefer the “most aesthetic line” up the mountain, which is often a euphemism for the most direct. If you don’t pace yourself, the trails of the Via Valais will humble you quickly.
Gear That Worked
The Swiss prefer the “most aesthetic line” up the mountain, which is often a euphemism for the most direct. (Photo: Andy Cochrane)
Mons Royale Classic Merino T-Shirt
After six long and sweaty days in the mountains, my Mons Royale Classic tee didn’t stink at all, meaning no uncomfortable conversations with strangers in huts and minimal side-eye from my fellow travelers. Plus, it kept me cool on long climbs, a blessing during our hot afternoons.
Norrona Senja Econyl70 Pack
Minimal bounce, no chaffing, and an adjustable fit meant maximum comfort, even after 60 hours in all kinds of conditions. With enough space for spare clothes, first aid, spare gear, snacks and water, the Senja pack is ideal for a hut-to-hut trip like the Via Valais.
Arcteryx Incendo Hoody
While I never had to test it in a heavy downpour, I was impressed with how the Incendo kept me comfortable in light drizzle, cool mornings, and on windy passes. The breathable windbreaker was a nearly indispensable piece on this trip, coming on and off dozens of times.
Des Linden, her husband Ryan, and Magda Boulet climb up to the Moiry hut above 9,000 feet. Photo: Andy CochraneNike Zegama 2 Trail Shoes
My most difficult decision was which pair of trail running shoes to bring. Ultimately I went with the Zegama 2, which has worked well on trips like this in the past and therefore I trust a lot. With great grip, a responsive foam midsole, and a tough upper, I knew it could handle the abuse of Swiss trails.
Leki Ultratrail FX.One Poles
With the sheer amount of climbing on the Via Valais, I knew a good pair of poles would be crucial. I find Leki to have the most comfortable grips, paired with some of the lightest carbon layups. The FX.One Superlight takes these to the extreme, which worked perfectly on this trip.
Gu Recovery Protein Mix
Thanks to Gu’s easy-to-use travel pouches, I was able to jumpstart my recovery each night with a small glass of water and 20 grams of high quality protein. This is hugely helpful on hut-to-hut trips, when you’re stacking big days and the collective vert begins to add up.