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Recent rockfall at the Couloir du Gouter. Photo: St. Gervais City Hall press office<\/p>\n
Serious warning<\/p>\n
\u201cThe mountain guides of Saint-Gervais-Les Contamines and Chamonix have already decided to suspend all planned ascents of Mont Blanc for as long as the situation persists,\u201d Peillex noted, referring to the danger in the Couloir.<\/p>\n
The last time Pelleix had to take such a measure was in August 2022, during a similar extreme heat wave, after several accidents involving climbers who ignored the warnings.<\/p>\n
Recently, we reported on massive rockfalls on the south side of Matterhorn<\/a> and the decision by guides in the area to cancel their guided climbs on the iconic peak.<\/p>\n The 4,000\u2019ers Route undoable<\/p>\n Closing the refuges doesn\u2019t mean closing the mountain itself. That would be difficult, considering it has several routes and faces two countries. Closing refuges is intended to deter climbers from trying to summit by the Gouter route.<\/p>\n As for the second-most popular route of Mont Blanc, the 4,000\u2019ers Route (Trois Monts) from the Aiguille de Midi, the Cosmiques hut, and the Mont Blanc du Tacul, climbers should seek updated information before traveling. As far as we know, the hut is open, but the famous ice cave at the exit of the cable car that marks the beginning of the Arete des Cosmiques \u2014 the sharp snow ridge on the way to the Cosmiques hut \u2014 melted and crumbled last week for the first time since 2003. The pass to the Arete was then closed while the cave was repaired.<\/p>\n Yet, the main problem is the route itself. \u201cI\u2019m not sure about the current conditions of Mont Blanc du Tacul, but no one that I am aware of has been on the Trois Monts route since early July,\u201d Chamonix UIAGM guide Hellias Milerioux<\/a> told ExplorersWeb. \u201cThe crevasse [bergschrund] at the base of Tacul is too wide open to be crossed.\u201d<\/p>\n Up to climbers<\/p>\n Climbers are warning of risky conditions all across the massif, with dry glaciers, weak snow bridges, and open crevasses.<\/p>\n \u201cIt is up to all climbers, whether accompanied by guides or not, to fully grasp the gravity of the situation and abandon their climbing plans for the duration of this crisis,\u201d Pelleix said about the current situation.<\/p>\n \u201cThe natural environment and the mountains dictate the rules, and every climber must act with humility,\u201d he added. \u201cClimbing Mont Blanc is not a challenge or a feat of daring, and it is not worth risking the lives of climbers and rescuers out of pride.\u201d<\/p>\n The mayor of Saint Gervais has been active on social media and in public appearances, harshly criticizing poorly equipped, inexperienced, and irresponsible climbers<\/a> on Mont Blanc and the surrounding areas.<\/p>\n Hot until Sunday<\/p>\n
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