{"id":181140,"date":"2026-08-16T08:47:12","date_gmt":"2026-08-16T08:47:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/181140\/"},"modified":"2026-08-16T08:47:12","modified_gmt":"2026-08-16T08:47:12","slug":"ceska-kreveta-existuje-v-dejvicke-restauraci-obnovuji-tradici-raku-na-taliri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/181140\/","title":{"rendered":"\u010cesk\u00e1 kreveta existuje. V dejvick\u00e9 restauraci obnovuj\u00ed tradici rak\u016f na tal\u00ed\u0159i"},"content":{"rendered":"

Je\u0161t\u011b v\u00a0\u0161edes\u00e1t\u00fdch letech byli raci v\u00a0tehdej\u0161\u00edm \u010ceskoslovensku pom\u011brn\u011b b\u011b\u017en\u00fd druh. Dne\u0161n\u00ed sedmdes\u00e1tn\u00edci vzpom\u00ednaj\u00ed, jak chytali klepet\u00e1\u010de v\u00a0potoce, jin\u00ed na \u00fa\u017easnou pochoutku. Raky v\u00a0tuzemsku zlikvidovaly invazn\u00ed druhy, ra\u010d\u00ed mor a tak\u00e9 zne\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed vodn\u00edch ploch a\u00a0tok\u016f. Je trochu ironie, \u017ee do \u010ceska<\/a> musel p\u0159ijet kluk z\u00a0Arm\u00e9nie, aby vzpom\u00ednku na skv\u011blou surovinu o\u017eivil.<\/p>\n

Plody Arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9ho mo\u0159e. Sevan je jedno z\u00a0nejv\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017een\u00fdch sladkovodn\u00edch jezer na sv\u011bt\u011b. Je to z\u00e1rove\u0148 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed jezero nejen v\u00a0Arm\u00e9nii, ale i\u00a0na Kavkaze. Jeho st\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b blankytnou hladinu obklopuj\u00ed h\u0159ebeny hor. P\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1 se mu Arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 mo\u0159e. Pr\u00e1v\u011b toto jezero bylo kdysi nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm zdrojem rak\u016f v\u00a0zemi, je\u017e je m\u011bla za b\u011b\u017enou kuchy\u0148skou surovinu. \u201ePoprv\u00e9 v\u00a0\u017eivot\u011b jsem vid\u011bl raka, kdy\u017e mi bylo asi \u0161est. Rodi\u010de si je d\u00e1vali n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t do m\u011bs\u00edce, asi jako \u010ce\u0161i knedl\u00edky,\u201c vypr\u00e1v\u00ed dnes zakladatel pra\u017esk\u00e9 restaurace Rakin Seafood Bar Patrik Yeranyan.<\/p>\n

Do \u010ceska p\u0159i\u0161el hr\u00e1t tenis<\/a>, reprezentoval za dorostence, cestu ke sportovn\u00ed kari\u00e9\u0159e mu ale zkomplikovalo zran\u011bn\u00ed. Yeranyan n\u00e1sledn\u011b v\u00a0Praze nastoupil na vysokou a\u00a0u\u017e tehdy si vzpomn\u011bl na ve\u010dery, kdy se u\u00a0nich doma podobn\u011b jako krevety loupali \u010derven\u00ed kor\u00fd\u0161i. \u201eZe Sevanu poch\u00e1zeli jedni z\u00a0nejlep\u0161\u00edch rak\u016f na sv\u011bt\u011b, chutnali v\u00fdborn\u011b, proto\u017ee voda v\u00a0jeze\u0159e byla velmi \u010dist\u00e1. Kdy\u017e jsme ode\u0161li do \u010ceska, m\u016fj tat\u00ednek si tu otev\u0159el mal\u00fd obchod, kam dov\u00e1\u017eel z\u00a0Arm\u00e9nie zbo\u017e\u00ed. Byla to r\u016fzn\u00e1 v\u00edna nebo kompoty, pak ale otce napadlo dov\u00e9zt sem i\u00a0raky,\u201c vypr\u00e1v\u00ed sou\u010dasn\u00fd podnikatel. Vysoko\u0161kol\u00e1k Patrik se toho chopil a\u00a0zkou\u0161el klepet\u00e1\u010de prod\u00e1vat na r\u016fzn\u00fdch m\u00edstech. Za\u010dal na bazarech.<\/p>\n

Byznys bez konkurence<\/p>\n

Tak se zrodil jeho byznys s\u00a0dovozem rak\u016f. Nep\u0159iv\u00e1\u017eel je v\u0161ak z\u00a0Arm\u00e9nie, tam raci do\u0161li ke zk\u00e1ze podobn\u011b jako v\u00a0naprost\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b zem\u00ed v\u00a0Evrop\u011b. Zdroj ra\u010d\u00edho masa na\u0161el Yeranyan v\u00a0Rumunsku, kde dote\u010f \u017eije pom\u011brn\u011b po\u010detn\u00e1 populace raka \u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00edho, jen\u017e byl b\u011b\u017en\u00fd tak\u00e9 u\u00a0n\u00e1s. Dnes je v\u00a0\u010cesku, stejn\u011b jako jeho p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fd rak kamen\u00e1\u010d, pod p\u0159\u00edsnou ochranou. Jin\u00e1 je si\u00adtuace v\u00a0Rumunsku, a\u010dkoli i\u00a0tam je nyn\u00ed jeho lov regulov\u00e1n.<\/p>\n

RAKIN SEAFOOD BAR | Zdroj: e15 Michaela Szkanderov\u00e1<\/p>\n

Yeranyanovi se d\u00edky rumunsk\u00fdm rak\u016fm poda\u0159ilo zaplnit d\u00edru na trhu. V\u00a0dov\u00e1\u017ece raka z\u00a0p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch vod, pro kterou z\u00edskal v\u00fdjimku ministerstva \u017eivotn\u00edho prost\u0159ed\u00ed, patrn\u011b nem\u00e1 v\u00a0tuzemsku ani na star\u00e9m kontinent\u011b konkurenci. Vedle toho podnikatel dov\u00e1\u017e\u00ed ryby z\u00a0nizozemsk\u00e9 burzy.<\/p>\n

Zbo\u017e\u00ed putuje do \u010desk\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed<\/a>, mezi nimi\u017e jsou ty nejlep\u0161\u00ed. Yeranyanova spole\u010dnost Patrik holding voz\u00ed klepet\u00e1\u010de do jedin\u00e9 dvouhv\u011bzdi\u010dkov\u00e9 michelinsk\u00e9 restaurace v\u00a0\u010cesku Papilia<\/a>, raky odeb\u00edraj\u00ed tak\u00e9 v\u00a0El Camino Tapas Restaurantu, ocen\u011bn\u00e9m pro zm\u011bnu dv\u011bma \u010depicemi jin\u00e9ho v\u011bhlasn\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce Gault & Millau<\/a>. Celkem Yeranyan v\u00a0tuzemsku zav\u00e1\u017e\u00ed kolem 20 podnik\u016f. V\u00a0zahrani\u010d\u00ed lah\u016fdka putuje k\u00a0distributor\u016fm a\u00a0teprve odtud m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed do tamn\u00edch podnik\u016f.<\/p>\n

\"T\u00fdm<\/a>T\u00fdm kolem Arm\u00e9na a Brazilce vrac\u00ed na \u010desk\u00fd st\u016fl raky. S menu se inspiruje u \u010desk\u00e9 buditelky<\/a><\/p>\n

Podnikatel za\u010d\u00ednal s\u00a0mal\u00fdm skladem t\u0159ikr\u00e1t t\u0159i metry a\u00a0prvn\u00ed objedn\u00e1vky rozv\u00e1\u017eel hromadnou dopravou. Dnes doprav\u00ed do \u010ceska asi dv\u011b tuny rak\u016f za m\u011bs\u00edc, a\u017e patn\u00e1ct tun zam\u00ed\u0159\u00ed d\u00e1l do Evropy. Velk\u00e1 popt\u00e1vka je podle podnikatele nap\u0159\u00edklad ve Francii, kde jsou str\u00e1vn\u00edci zvykl\u00ed hlavn\u011b na mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 jsou vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00ed labu\u017en\u00edci a\u00a0jako takov\u00ed cht\u011bj\u00ed ochutn\u00e1vat nov\u00e9 pokrmy, mezi n\u011b\u017e pat\u0159\u00ed i\u00a0rak.<\/p>\n

Z\u00e1jem maj\u00ed i\u00a0ve \u0160pan\u011blsku, kde jsou pro zm\u011bnu na raky pom\u011brn\u011b zvykl\u00ed. Jen \u010dast\u011bji u\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed louisiansk\u00e9ho raka chovan\u00e9ho na nizozemsk\u00fdch farm\u00e1ch a\u00a0po rakovi \u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00edm je popt\u00e1vka men\u0161\u00ed. Ale tak\u00e9 \u0160pan\u011bl\u00e9 r\u00e1di zkus\u00ed n\u011bco nov\u00e9ho. Loui\u00adsiansk\u00fd kolega \u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00edho raka por\u00e1\u017e\u00ed tak\u00e9 cenou. Tvor z\u00a0p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch vod je asi o\u00a040 procent dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e rak z\u00a0um\u011bl\u00e9ho chovu. V\u017edy\u0165 v\u00a0\u010cesku vyjde kilo zhruba na 1100 korun.<\/p>\n

Popt\u00e1vka se zvy\u0161uje tak\u00e9 v\u00a0Polsku, a\u00a0to zejm\u00e9na v\u00a0souvislosti s\u00a0uprchlickou vlnou z\u00a0Ukrajiny. V\u00a0\u010cesku to jde podle Yeranyana zat\u00edm trochu pomalu, ale i\u00a0tak s\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00fdm rokem popt\u00e1vka roste. \u201e\u010ce\u0161i jsou trochu konzervativn\u00ed a\u00a0ne tak \u010dasto zkou\u0161ej\u00ed n\u011bco nov\u00e9ho. Sna\u017e\u00edme se tento stereotyp trochu rozb\u00edt,\u201c uv\u00e1d\u00ed ra\u010d\u00ed distributor.<\/p>\n

\u0160t\u011bst\u00ed v\u00a0ra\u010d\u00edm kavi\u00e1ru<\/p>\n

I\u00a0kv\u016fli tomu vznikl p\u0159ed rokem v\u00a0pra\u017esk\u00fdch Dejvic\u00edch<\/a> na m\u00edst\u011b b\u00fdval\u00e9 pr\u00e1delny nov\u00fd gastronomick\u00fd podnik. Jmenuje se Rakin a\u00a0pod\u00e1vaj\u00ed se tu nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed druhy vodn\u00edch \u017eivo\u010dich\u016f. Tou hlavn\u00ed lah\u016fdkou jsou ale raci.<\/p>\n

Ra\u010d\u00ed menu inspirovan\u00e9 recepty Magdaleny Dobromily Rettigov\u00e9 | Zdroj: Rakin<\/p>\n

Jak vlastn\u011b ra\u010d\u00ed maso chutn\u00e1? Nejbl\u00ed\u017ee mu je zmi\u0148ovan\u00e1 kreveta. Ra\u010d\u00ed maso se podobn\u011b loupe a\u00a0m\u00e1 tak\u00e9 podobnou strukturu. Na chu\u0165 je v\u0161ak jemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Kdo m\u00e1 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, dostane kus s\u00a0kavi\u00e1rem, kter\u00fd se ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 pod ocasem. Zda tam bude, z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na sezon\u011b. Velkou pochoutkou jsou ra\u010d\u00ed j\u00e1tra. Kdo chce tvora vyu\u017e\u00edt se v\u0161\u00edm v\u0161udy, m\u016f\u017ee je\u0161t\u011b vys\u00e1t \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu. V\u00a0podniku je mo\u017en\u00e9 objednat i\u00a0jen jeden jedin\u00fd degusta\u010dn\u00ed kus klepet\u00e1\u010de. \u201eJe to takov\u00e1 chu\u0165ovka, asi jako \u00fast\u0159ice. Raky pod\u00e1v\u00e1me s\u00a0lehce pikantn\u00ed cajunskou om\u00e1\u010dkou, kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 p\u016fvod v\u00a0Louisian\u011b, a\u00a0s\u00a0brio\u0161kou. V\u017edycky je u\u00a0toho takov\u00e1 mal\u00e1 show, p\u0159ijde n\u00e1\u0161 ra\u010d\u00ed someli\u00e9r a\u00a0p\u0159edvede, jak se dostat k\u00a0masu a\u00a0co v\u0161echno se d\u00e1 sn\u00edst,\u201c l\u00ed\u010d\u00ed Yeranyan.<\/p>\n

C\u00edlem podniku je ale j\u00edt je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1l, ne\u017e se dostanou b\u011b\u017en\u00ed z\u00e1kazn\u00edci konzumuj\u00edc\u00ed kor\u00fd\u0161\u00ed maso. Sna\u017e\u00ed se toti\u017e zpracovat velkou \u010d\u00e1st klepet\u00e1\u010dova t\u011bla, vyr\u00e1b\u00ed se tu proto dal\u0161\u00ed suroviny, jako je ra\u010d\u00ed m\u00e1slo, ra\u010d\u00ed olej, nebo dokonce ra\u010d\u00ed gin.<\/p>\n

Lik\u00e9r se p\u00e1l\u00ed v\u00a0lihovaru Garage22 a\u00a0Rakin do n\u011bj dod\u00e1v\u00e1 ra\u010d\u00ed v\u00fdvar, oc\u00e1sky i\u00a0krun\u00fd\u0159e. Je to jedin\u00fd unik\u00e1t sv\u00e9ho druhu, nic takov\u00e9ho nikde jinde neexistuje. P\u0159\u00edtomnost \u010derven\u00e9ho tvora je v\u00a0ginu zn\u00e1t na chuti i\u00a0na v\u016fni.<\/p>\n

Rakin m\u00e1 nyn\u00ed v\u00a0pl\u00e1nu vedle nab\u00eddky v\u00a0bistru dod\u00e1vat v\u0161echny suroviny do prodeje do b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 s\u00edt\u011b.<\/p>\n

Na raky s\u00a0Magdalenou<\/p>\n

V\u00a0podniku lze poznat v\u0161echny mo\u017en\u00e9 chut\u011b, jak\u00e9 m\u016f\u017ee rak pokrm\u016fm d\u00e1t. V\u00a0pat\u0159e bistra vznikl prostor pro degustaci. Vypad\u00e1 jako ob\u00fdv\u00e1k ze sedmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch \u010di osmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch let a\u00a0nedb\u00e1 se tady na p\u0159\u00edsnou etiketu. Jedin\u00e1 star\u00e1 pravidla, kter\u00e1 tu hraj\u00ed roli, jsou ta v\u00a0kuchyni. T\u00fdm v\u00a0\u010dele s\u00a0brazilsk\u00fdm \u0161\u00e9fkucha\u0159em Gabrielem Bertassem si mimo jin\u00e9 p\u0159ipravil menu inspirovan\u00e9 Magdalenou Dobromilou Rettigovou; \u010desk\u00e1 buditelka ve sv\u00e9 kuchyni raky pou\u017e\u00edvala vcelku b\u011b\u017en\u011b.<\/p>\n

\u201eP\u0159e\u010detl jsem celou jej\u00ed kucha\u0159ku a\u00a0byl jsem velmi p\u0159ekvapen\u00fd. V\u011bd\u011bli jsme, \u017ee se p\u0159ed 200 lety raci v\u00a0\u010cesku pou\u017e\u00edvali, netu\u0161ili jsme v\u0161ak, jak moc jsou ty recepty rozpracovan\u00e9. Nakonec jsme jich na\u0161li p\u0159es \u010dty\u0159i des\u00edtky, n\u011bkolik z\u00a0nich jsme vybrali, vyzkou\u0161eli a\u00a0na z\u00e1klad\u011b toho vymysleli degusta\u010dn\u00ed set,\u201c popisuje \u0161\u00e9f Rakinu.<\/p>\n

Ryb\u00ed v\u00e9lout\u00e9 s ra\u010d\u00edmi knedl\u00ed\u010dky | Zdroj: e15\/Eli\u0161ka Nov\u00e1<\/p>\n

Na tal\u00ed\u0159i tohoto staro\u010desk\u00e9ho menu se objevuje \u0161tika s\u00a0ra\u010d\u00edm chipsem, je tu i\u00a0ryb\u00ed velout\u00e9 s\u00a0v\u00fdvarem z\u00a0ra\u010d\u00edch kost\u00ed s\u00a0knedl\u00ed\u010dkem z\u00a0ra\u010d\u00edho masa. B\u011bhem ve\u010dera se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 sma\u017een\u00e1 k\u0159epelka s\u00a0kapustou dopln\u011bn\u00e1 o\u00a0ra\u010d\u00ed oc\u00e1sky. Na menu je tak\u00e9 sele s\u00a0lan\u00fd\u017eem a\u00a0rakem a\u00a0z\u00a0kor\u00fd\u0161\u00edho masa je i\u00a0dezert, kter\u00fd se podle Rettigov\u00e9 jmenuje Rakov\u00e1 \u0161trudle, v\u00a0modern\u00edm pod\u00e1n\u00ed jde o\u00a0jogurtov\u00e9ho \u0161neka s\u00a0n\u00e1pln\u00ed z\u00a0pra\u017een\u00fdch mandl\u00ed s\u00a0cukrem, ra\u010d\u00edmi oc\u00e1sky, po\u0161\u00edrovanou hru\u0161kou a\u00a0se zmrzlinou z\u00a0jogurtu.<\/p>\n

\u201eDneska je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 p\u0159ekvapit, rak ale pat\u0159\u00ed k\u00a0surovin\u00e1m, kter\u00e9 jsou pro spoustu lid\u00ed nezn\u00e1m\u00e9. Moc dal\u0161\u00edch takov\u00fdch nenajdete. Nav\u00edc je to p\u016fvodn\u00ed \u010desk\u00fd produkt,\u201c m\u00edn\u00ed Yeranyan. Jeho c\u00edlem je dostat raky v\u00a0tuzemsku znovu mezi lidi, i\u00a0proto p\u0159ed ned\u00e1vnem od\u00adm\u00edtl nab\u00eddku otev\u0159\u00edt stejn\u00fd podnik v\u00a0Berl\u00edn\u011b. Zat\u00edm se to da\u0159\u00ed, 70 procent z\u00e1kazn\u00edk\u016f dejvick\u00e9ho bistra jsou nyn\u00ed \u010ce\u0161i. A\u00a0Patrik Yeranyan mezi t\u00edm v\u0161\u00edm kuje dal\u0161\u00ed pl\u00e1ny. T\u0159eba na otev\u0159en\u00ed n\u011bkolika dal\u0161\u00edch podnik\u016f s\u00a0r\u016fzn\u00fdmi koncepty a\u00a0vytvo\u0159it tak podobnou s\u00ed\u0165, jakou m\u00e1 v\u00a0\u010cesku Ambiente.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Je\u0161t\u011b v\u00a0\u0161edes\u00e1t\u00fdch letech byli raci v\u00a0tehdej\u0161\u00edm \u010ceskoslovensku pom\u011brn\u011b b\u011b\u017en\u00fd druh. Dne\u0161n\u00ed sedmdes\u00e1tn\u00edci vzpom\u00ednaj\u00ed, jak chytali klepet\u00e1\u010de v\u00a0potoce, jin\u00ed…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":181141,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_share_on_mastodon":"0"},"categories":[11],"tags":[14782,19368,42,1037,106,13468,43197,5751,43196,1958,54,33091,8007,53,52],"class_list":["post-181140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-svet","tag-armenie","tag-bistro","tag-cesko","tag-dejvice","tag-evropa","tag-jezero","tag-krevety","tag-maso","tag-raci","tag-restaurace","tag-svet","tag-talir","tag-tradice","tag-world","tag-world-news"],"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@cz\/117104321917682046","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/181140","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=181140"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/181140\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/181141"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=181140"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=181140"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=181140"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}