{"id":181322,"date":"2026-08-16T11:22:23","date_gmt":"2026-08-16T11:22:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/181322\/"},"modified":"2026-08-16T11:22:23","modified_gmt":"2026-08-16T11:22:23","slug":"kouzelne-podkrkonosi-vyhledy-na-snezku-setkani-se-zahrobim-i-lazenska-oaza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/181322\/","title":{"rendered":"Kouzeln\u00e9 Podkrkono\u0161\u00ed. V\u00fdhledy na Sn\u011b\u017eku, setk\u00e1n\u00ed se z\u00e1hrob\u00edm i\u00a0l\u00e1ze\u0148sk\u00e1 o\u00e1za"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kdy\u017e se \u010dlov\u011bk z\u00a0m\u011bsta ocitne pracovn\u011b v\u00a0Podkrkono\u0161\u00ed, je mu l\u00edto hned zase odfr\u010det zp\u00e1tky dom\u016f. Tak jsem toho vyu\u017eil, zl\u00e1kalo m\u011b m\u011bste\u010dko Nov\u00e1 Paka a\u00a0pak p\u011b\u0161\u00ed trasa odtud p\u0159es hrad Pecka do L\u00e1zn\u00ed B\u011blohrad.<\/p>\n

Radostn\u00fd \u00fadiv za\u017eije v\u00fdletn\u00edk v\u00a0Nov\u00e9 Pace hned po vystoupen\u00ed z\u00a0autobusu. M\u00edstn\u00ed termin\u00e1l z\u00a0betonu, oceli, d\u0159eva a\u00a0skla, dokon\u010den\u00fd v\u00a0roce 2023, m\u00e1 \u00fatulnou \u010dek\u00e1rnu, \u00faschovnu j\u00edzdn\u00edch kol a\u00a0ve\u0159ejn\u00e9 toalety. Je vzdu\u0161n\u00fd, poskytuje dostatek st\u00ednu a\u00a0hned za p\u0159echodem silnice na n\u011bj plynule navazuje p\u011b\u0161\u00ed z\u00f3na.<\/p>\n

Sta\u010d\u00ed proj\u00edt kolem font\u00e1ny s\u00a0modern\u00edm souso\u0161\u00edm nazvan\u00fdm Kryptolebci na lovu a\u00a0jste u\u00a0kav\u00e1rny Saky paky, odkud je to kousek na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Tady zaujme za\u0161l\u00e1 sl\u00e1va Hotelu Central, novorenesan\u010dn\u00ed stavby z\u00a0roku 1906, kter\u00e1 tak\u00e9 nab\u00edz\u00ed dostatek k\u00fd\u017een\u00e9ho st\u00ednu\u00a0\u2013 tentokr\u00e1t v\u00a0podob\u011b \u0161irok\u00e9ho podloub\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Hlavn\u00ed atrakci Nov\u00e9 Paky p\u0159edstavuje budova z\u00a0roku 1996, ve kter\u00e9 jsou shrom\u00e1\u017ed\u011bny m\u00edstn\u00ed polodrahokamy spole\u010dn\u011b s\u00a0dal\u0161\u00edmi horninami, zkamen\u011blinami a\u00a0miner\u00e1ly. Odtud n\u00e1zev muzea: Klenotnice. N\u011bkter\u00e9 kameny zpracovali zdej\u0161\u00ed brusi\u010di a\u00a0\u0161perka\u0159i a\u00a0jsou tu i\u00a0kousky k\u00a0zakoupen\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Horn\u00ed patro je v\u011bnov\u00e1no podivuhodn\u00e9mu fenom\u00e9nu krkono\u0161sk\u00e9ho spiritismu. Jeho nejv\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159edstavitel a\u00a0propag\u00e1tor Karel Sezemsk\u00fd (1860\u20131936) \u017eil v\u00a0usedlosti zvan\u00e9 Na Duch\u00e1rn\u011b kousek od Nov\u00e9 Paky, po\u0159\u00e1dal zde seance a\u00a0vyd\u00e1val \u010dasopis Posel z\u00e1hrobn\u00ed.<\/p>\n

V muzeu jsou vystaveny tak\u00e9 takzvan\u00e9 medijn\u00ed, neboli automatick\u00e9 kresby a\u00a0malby, kter\u00e9 teoretici um\u011bn\u00ed zahrnuj\u00ed pod pojem art brut. Jsou tak\u00e9 \u00fazce spojeny se spiritismem, nebo\u0165 se m\u00e1 za to, \u017ee autorova ruka je p\u0159i jejich tvorb\u011b vedena and\u011blem, duchem \u010di jin\u00fdm druhem energie pr\u00fd\u0161t\u00edc\u00ed z\u00a0hlubin nev\u011bdom\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Kebab, buginy i\u00a0kostel\u00edk na hol\u00e9m kopci<\/p>\n

K Paul\u00e1nsk\u00e9mu kl\u00e1\u0161teru, ty\u010d\u00edc\u00edm se na opa\u010dn\u00e9m konci m\u011bsta, se mi ve vedru nechce. Uprost\u0159ed leto\u0161n\u00edho l\u00e9ta v\u00edc pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed po\u010det nov\u00fdch font\u00e1n a\u00a0dal\u0161\u00edch vodn\u00edch prvk\u016f v\u00a0centru m\u011bsta (\u010dty\u0159i). A\u00a0kdy\u017e jsme u\u00a0s\u010d\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed: i\u00a0turistu dob\u0159e obezn\u00e1men\u00e9ho s\u00a0realitou \u010desk\u00fdch malom\u011bst p\u0159ekvap\u00ed mno\u017estv\u00ed kebab\u00e1ren\u00a0\u2013 napo\u010d\u00edtal jsem jich p\u011bt.<\/p>\n

Foto: Marek \u0160\u00e1lek, Seznam Zpr\u00e1vy<\/a><\/p>\n

K opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed dev\u00edtitis\u00edcov\u00e9ho m\u011bste\u010dka sm\u011br hrad Pecka sta\u010d\u00ed chytnout se \u010derven\u00e9 zna\u010dky. Zpest\u0159it si to m\u016f\u017eete zast\u00e1vkou v\u00a0kav\u00e1rn\u011b U\u00a0\u00c1mose \u010di nakouknut\u00edm do are\u00e1lu firmy SQS Optick\u00e1 vl\u00e1kna\u00a0\u2013 star\u00e9 tov\u00e1rny, kter\u00e1 pro\u0161la sympatickou architektonickou konverz\u00ed. Potom u\u017e se nevyhnete pon\u011bkud \u00famorn\u00e9mu stoup\u00e1n\u00ed periferi\u00ed, jej\u00ed\u017e f\u00e1dnost po p\u00e1r stovk\u00e1ch metr\u016f ukon\u010d\u00ed p\u016flkilometrov\u00fd silni\u010dn\u00ed most na trase Ji\u010d\u00edn\u00a0\u2013 Trutnov.<\/p>\n

V tu chv\u00edli u\u017e je na dohled autokrosov\u00e9 z\u00e1vodi\u0161t\u011b \u0160tikovsk\u00e1 rokle, co\u017e m\u011b napl\u0148uje nostalgi\u00ed. Televizn\u00ed p\u0159enosy ze souboj\u016f bizarn\u00edch voz\u00edtek, zvan\u00fdch t\u00e9\u017e \u201ebuginy\u201c, b\u00fdvaly v\u00edtan\u00fdm zpest\u0159en\u00edm jednotv\u00e1rn\u00fdch normaliza\u010dn\u00edch ned\u011bl\u00ed. Zabahn\u011bn\u00e9 jezdce jsem tak obdivoval, \u017ee si jejich jm\u00e9na pamatuju dodnes. Jak vidno z\u00a0plak\u00e1t\u016f na leto\u0161n\u00ed mistrovstv\u00ed Evropy, sl\u00e1va tohoto sportu i\u00a0novopack\u00e9ho z\u00e1vodi\u0161t\u011b trv\u00e1.<\/p>\n

Za autokrosovou trat\u00ed, na kter\u00e9 si m\u016f\u017eou za\u0159\u00e1dit i\u00a0p\u0159edem objednan\u00e9 skupiny, nap\u0159\u00edklad v\u00a0r\u00e1mci teambuildingu, se no\u0159\u00edm do lesa. Vyjdu z\u00a0n\u011bj po t\u0159ech kilometrech na kraji vesnice Stupn\u00e1, kterou zanech\u00e1v\u00e1m sv\u00e9mu osudu a\u00a0odbo\u010duji ke kostelu svat\u00e9 M\u00e1\u0159\u00ed Magdaleny. Stoj\u00ed na vr\u0161ku obklopen\u00e9m loukami a\u00a0jsou odtud kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy, nechyb\u00ed ani lavi\u010dky\u00a0\u2013 ide\u00e1ln\u00ed chv\u00edle i\u00a0m\u00edsto ke svl\u00e9knut\u00ed propocen\u00e9ho trika a\u00a0chvilce spo\u010dinut\u00ed.<\/p>\n

N\u00e1sleduj\u00ed dva kilometry po \u010derven\u00e9 zna\u010dce a\u00a0otev\u0159e se pohled na vesnici Pecka a\u00a0stejnojmenn\u00fd hrad. Kolem b\u00fdval\u00e9ho kina s\u00a0b\u00fdval\u00fdm hostincem a\u00a0monument\u00e1ln\u00ed prvorepublikov\u00e9 \u0161koly vede stoup\u00e1n\u00ed na ned\u00e1vno zrekonstruovan\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, kde jsou dva hotely, bistro, kav\u00e1rna a\u00a0Muzeum legion\u00e1\u0159\u016f z\u00a0Pecky. Hrad, respektive jeho zbytek, se ty\u010d\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b o\u00a0n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161 a\u00a0krom\u011b silnice i\u00a0schodi\u0161t\u011b k\u00a0n\u011bmu vedou vy\u0161lapan\u00e9 cesti\u010dky.<\/p>\n

Mapa trasy<\/p>\n

Na n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed se chyst\u00e1 ve\u010dern\u00ed koncert V\u00e1clava Noida B\u00e1rty s\u00a0doprovodem Orchestru Karla Vlacha. L\u00edstky jsou vyprodan\u00e9, hl\u00e1s\u00ed sle\u010dny u\u00a0vchodu. Nezb\u00fdv\u00e1 ne\u017e vz\u00edt zavd\u011bk pivem, kter\u00e9 v\u00a0bistru nazvan\u00e9m Pol\u017eic\u00edch \u010depuje spolek Bezdru\u017eic. Jde o\u00a0odkazy na Kry\u0161tofa Haranta z\u00a0Pol\u017eic a\u00a0Bezdru\u017eic, kter\u00fd na Pecce pob\u00fdval p\u0159ed svou popravou. Ale tak\u00e9 na l\u017e\u00edce. Akc\u00ed se tu ov\u0161em cel\u00e9 l\u00e9to kon\u00e1 v\u00edce.<\/p>\n

V\u00e1clav Havel je nejchyt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed a\u00a0moc hodn\u00fd, hezk\u00fd kluk<\/p>\n

Kousek za Peckou se od \u010derven\u00e9 odpojuji na modrou. Zasko\u010d\u00ed m\u011b cedule s\u00a0n\u00e1pisem: \u201eJe-li ti \u017eivot mil\u00fd, nev\u00e1hej a\u00a0ob\u011btuj chv\u00edli. Rad\u0161i ne\u017e v\u00a0ohradn\u00edku m\u011b\u0159it s\u00edly, sm\u011b\u0159uj kroky okolo k\u00a0c\u00edli.\u201c Ver\u0161ov\u00e1nku bohu\u017eel nedoprov\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1vod, jak tento pokyn vykonat, tak\u017ee se nakonec mus\u00edm dvakr\u00e1t podplazit pod elektrick\u00fdm ohradn\u00edkem a\u00a0koutkem oka sledovat, jestli se pasouc\u00ed st\u00e1do dobytka ned\u00e1v\u00e1 do pohybu m\u00fdm sm\u011brem.<\/p>\n

\u00dat\u011bchou za nevy\u017e\u00e1dan\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed v\u00a0podob\u011b p\u0159ehrazen\u00e9 trasy Klubu \u010desk\u00fdch turist\u016f je Krkono\u0161sk\u00e1 vyhl\u00eddka na k\u00f3t\u011b 513\u00a0metr\u016f po dal\u0161\u00edm kilometru ch\u016fze. D\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e1 konstrukce p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed posed p\u016fsob\u00ed byteln\u011b, po osmn\u00e1cti p\u0159\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1ch tedy vystoup\u00e1m na horn\u00ed plo\u0161inu. Jsem odm\u011bn\u011bn rozhledem na v\u0161echny strany, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e nejdramati\u010dt\u011bji p\u016fsob\u00ed severn\u00ed horizont: Kotel, Studni\u010dn\u00ed hora, Sn\u011b\u017eka, \u010cern\u00e1 hora\u2026<\/p>\n

Foto: Marek \u0160\u00e1lek, Seznam Zpr\u00e1vy<\/p>\n

Setk\u00e1n\u00ed jak ze star\u00e9ho obrazu. \u201eUr\u010dit\u011b se zastavte u\u00a0stud\u00e1nky, je to jen kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 odbo\u010dka,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 mi \u017eena zasn\u011bn\u011b. <\/p>\n

Pak se odehraje setk\u00e1n\u00ed, u\u00a0n\u011bho\u017e si ani o\u00a0mnoho dn\u016f pozd\u011bji nejsem jist\u00fd, jestli nebylo vyvolan\u00e9 halucinacemi z\u00a0rozp\u00e1len\u00e9 krajiny. Proti mn\u011b kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed lesem mlad\u00e1 \u010dernovlas\u00e1 \u017eena s\u00a0d\u00edvkou p\u0159ed\u0161koln\u00edho v\u011bku a\u00a0s nimi st\u00e1do koz. V\u00fdjev p\u016fsob\u00ed jako ze star\u00e9ho obrazu: jednoduch\u00e9 pl\u00e1t\u011bn\u00e9 \u0161aty, prout\u011bn\u00fd ko\u0161\u00edk, prov\u00e1zkov\u00e9 sand\u00e1ly\u2026 \u201eUr\u010dit\u011b se zastavte u\u00a0stud\u00e1nky, je to jen kr\u00e1tk\u00e1 odbo\u010dka,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 mi \u017eena zasn\u011bn\u011b, ne\u017e se po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 konverzaci zase rozlou\u010d\u00edme.<\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed cesta vede pol\u0148a\u010dkou, jej\u00ed\u017e povrch m\u00e1 cihlov\u011b \u010dervenou barvu. Zp\u016fsobuje to vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed obsah \u017eeleza v\u00a0p\u016fd\u011b, co\u017e je pro tuto \u010d\u00e1st Podkrkono\u0161\u00ed typick\u00e9. Sta\u010d\u00ed p\u00e1r krok\u016f a\u00a0m\u00e1m nohy od chodidel po kolena zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9, jako kdybych pr\u00e1v\u011b dohr\u00e1l tenisovou bitvu na antukov\u00e9m kurtu. Ut\u011b\u0161en\u00fd \u00fasek mezi poli s\u00a0dalek\u00fdmi a\u00a0m\u011bn\u00edc\u00edmi se v\u00fdhledy vyst\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 osada Bukovina se vzorn\u011b ope\u010dov\u00e1van\u00fdmi roubenkami chalup\u00e1\u0159\u016f.<\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed amat\u00e9rsk\u00fd n\u00e1pis, tentokr\u00e1t vyveden\u00fd vy\u0161isovan\u00fdm v\u00e1pnem na prkenn\u00fdch vratech stodoly, na m\u011b vykoukne ve vesnici Brtev: \u201eV\u00e1clav Havel je nejchyt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed a\u00a0moc hodn\u00fd hezk\u00fd kluk. Je to prvn\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd president \u010cSFR.\u201c Usm\u00edv\u00e1m se je\u0161t\u011b dlouho potom, co tuhle devades\u00e1tkovou euforii nech\u00e1m za sebou. To u\u017e se na obzoru vyno\u0159uj\u00ed obrysy L\u00e1zn\u00ed B\u011blohrad, co\u017e je c\u00edl m\u00e9 osmn\u00e1ctikilometrov\u00e9 v\u00fdpravy Podkrkono\u0161\u00edm.<\/p>\n

Foto: Marek \u0160\u00e1lek, Seznam Zpr\u00e1vy<\/p>\n

V Brtvi maj\u00ed r\u00e1di V\u00e1clava Havla.<\/p>\n

<\/a>Koupel, nebo pivo? Rozhodly sinice a\u00a0n\u00e1dra\u017eka<\/p>\n

Jez\u00edrko Pardoubek u\u00a0resortu Tree of life vypad\u00e1 l\u00e1kav\u011b, ale jen z\u00a0d\u00e1lky. Bohu\u017eel ho postihl jev zn\u00e1m\u00fd z\u00a0v\u011bt\u0161iny tuzemsk\u00fdch vodn\u00edch n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00ed. Namno\u017eily se v\u00a0n\u011bm \u0159asy a\u00a0sinice, co\u017e je obvykle zp\u016fsobeno p\u0159ebytkem fosforu, kter\u00fd poch\u00e1z\u00ed ze spla\u0161k\u016f z\u00a0na\u0161ich dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed i\u00a0pol\u00ed\u00a0\u2013 tedy z\u00a0\u010dist\u00edc\u00edch prost\u0159edk\u016f a\u00a0um\u011bl\u00fdch hnojiv. A\u00a0kdy\u017e vody ub\u00fdv\u00e1 tak dramaticky jako letos, koncentrace t\u011bchto \u017eivin se je\u0161t\u011b zvy\u0161uje.<\/p>\n

Z koup\u00e1n\u00ed tedy nic nebude. Zb\u00fdv\u00e1 uj\u00edt posledn\u00ed kilometr mezi l\u00e1ze\u0148sk\u00fdmi domy, sokolovnou, nep\u0159\u00edstupn\u00fdm z\u00e1mkem. Starosv\u011btsk\u00e9 romantiky a\u00a0technick\u00e9 nad\u0161ence pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed funk\u010dn\u00ed meteorologick\u00fd, nebo t\u00e9\u017e pov\u011btrnostn\u00ed sloup, kter\u00fd v\u00a0roce 1907\u00a0nechal zhotovit a\u00a0osadit na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed K. V. Raise m\u00edstn\u00ed okra\u0161lovac\u00ed spolek\u00a0\u2013 na p\u016fvodn\u00ed m\u00edsto byl po oprav\u011b slavnostn\u011b vr\u00e1cen loni v\u00a0\u010dervnu.<\/p>\n

Mysl v\u00fdletn\u00edka zchv\u00e1cen\u00e9ho hicem a\u00a0p\u011bti hodinami pochodu je v\u00a0tuto chv\u00edli u\u017e ale pevn\u011b upnuta k\u00a0vidin\u011b orosen\u00e9ho p\u016fllitru v\u00a0m\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017ece. Proto\u017ee do odjezdu vlaku zb\u00fdv\u00e1 i\u00a0po jeho dopit\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r minut, lze ocenit dom\u00e1cky veden\u00fd v\u00fd\u010dep s\u00a0p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm venkovn\u00edm posezen\u00edm nikoliv jedn\u00edm, ale dv\u011bma kousky z\u00a0novopack\u00e9ho pivovaru\u00a0\u2013 a\u00a0na d\u00e1lku tak pozdravit v\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod dne\u0161n\u00ed trasy.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Kdy\u017e se \u010dlov\u011bk z\u00a0m\u011bsta ocitne pracovn\u011b v\u00a0Podkrkono\u0161\u00ed, je mu l\u00edto hned zase odfr\u010det zp\u00e1tky dom\u016f. Tak jsem toho…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":181323,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_share_on_mastodon":"0"},"categories":[7],"tags":[43,42,41,40,42548,1837,43228,3912],"class_list":["post-181322","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-cesko","tag-ceska-republika","tag-cesko","tag-czech-republic","tag-czechia","tag-podkrkonosi","tag-tipy-na-vylety","tag-vychodni-cechy","tag-vylety-po-cesku"],"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@cz\/117104931548505545","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/181322","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=181322"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/181322\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/181323"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=181322"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=181322"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=181322"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}