{"id":47256,"date":"2026-04-06T18:43:56","date_gmt":"2026-04-06T18:43:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/47256\/"},"modified":"2026-04-06T18:43:56","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T18:43:56","slug":"mezi-destem-a-pintou-piva-aneb-divoka-krasa-zapadniho-irska","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/47256\/","title":{"rendered":"Mezi de\u0161t\u011bm a pintou piva aneb Divok\u00e1 kr\u00e1sa z\u00e1padn\u00edho Irska"},"content":{"rendered":"

P\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f po\u010das\u00ed m\u011b z\u00a0dublinsk\u00e9ho leti\u0161t\u011b pos\u00edl\u00e1 nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d cel\u00fdm ostrovem, t\u0159i sta kilometr\u016f po\u00a0d\u00e1lnici, abych stihl z\u00e1pad slunce nad legend\u00e1rn\u00edmi Mohersk\u00fdmi \u00fatesy. Dne\u0161ek slibuje posledn\u00ed jasn\u00fd ve\u010der, ne\u017e se na\u00a0cel\u00fd t\u00fdden vr\u00e1t\u00ed d\u00e9\u0161\u0165. Kdy\u017e doraz\u00edm, slunce se skute\u010dn\u011b skl\u00e1n\u00ed k\u00a0mo\u0159i a\u00a0rozehr\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u011btelnou show nad kolm\u00fdmi \u00fatesy padaj\u00edc\u00edmi do\u00a0Atlantiku. Setrv\u00e1v\u00e1m dlouho po\u00a0setm\u011bn\u00ed a\u00a0noc nakonec tr\u00e1v\u00edm v\u00a0aut\u011b na\u00a0p\u0159ilehl\u00e9m parkovi\u0161ti. Hv\u011bzdy nad hlavou, mo\u0159e pod skalami a\u00a0mezi t\u00edm j\u00e1, zav\u0159en\u00fd v\u00a0aut\u011b, kter\u00fdm s\u00edl\u00edc\u00ed v\u00edtr cloum\u00e1 ze strany na\u00a0stranu. V\u00a0noci p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159edpov\u00eddan\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161\u0165, kter\u00fd se m\u011bn\u00ed v\u00a0lij\u00e1k, bubnuje na\u00a0plechovou st\u0159echu auta a\u00a0neust\u00e1v\u00e1 ani po\u00a0\u00fasvitu. R\u00e1no, za\u00a0vytrval\u00e9ho de\u0161t\u011b, ke\u00a0mn\u011b p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed hl\u00edda\u010d parkovi\u0161t\u011b. Pokyne, abych st\u00e1hl ok\u00e9nko, a\u00a0j\u00e1, je\u0161t\u011b nap\u016fl ospal\u00fd, \u010dek\u00e1m v\u00fdtku za\u00a0noc str\u00e1venou na\u00a0zak\u00e1zan\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b. M\u00edsto toho se usm\u011bje a\u00a0zept\u00e1, jak\u00e1 byla noc, jestli se mi tam l\u00edbilo a\u00a0jestli jsem vid\u011bl v\u010derej\u0161\u00ed \u201esv\u011bteln\u00e9 divadlo nad \u00fatesy\u201c, a\u00a0nakonec pop\u0159eje \u0161\u0165astnou cestu. Beru to jako mil\u00e9 p\u0159iv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed na\u00a0ostrov\u011b. A\u00a0takov\u00fdch setk\u00e1n\u00ed m\u011b b\u011bhem cesty \u010dek\u00e1 nes\u010detn\u011b: prost\u00e1 vst\u0159\u00edcnost, kter\u00e1 se nevnucuje, ale zah\u0159eje v\u00edc ne\u017e irsk\u00e1 k\u00e1va.<\/p>\n

O\u00a0p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f d\u00e1l se krajina prom\u011bn\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 k\u00a0nepozn\u00e1n\u00ed. Zem\u011b se l\u00e1me a\u00a0nebe kles\u00e1. Zmiz\u00ed mo\u0159e i\u00a0travnat\u00e9 svahy a\u00a0p\u0159ede mnou se rozprost\u0159e Burren, kde v\u00e1pencov\u00e1 krajina p\u016fsob\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 mimozemsky. Kamenn\u00e9 bludi\u0161t\u011b, rozervan\u00e9 v\u011btrem, de\u0161t\u011bm a\u00a0\u010dasem. T\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 \u010dern\u00e9 mraky vis\u00ed n\u00edzko nad horizontem, jako by se cht\u011bly dotknout \u0161ediv\u00fdch skal, a\u00a0j\u00e1 m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee se mus\u00edm sehnout, abych do\u00a0nich nenarazil. Krajina je surov\u00e1, tich\u00e1, bez lid\u00ed. V\u00e1pencov\u00e9 desky se rozestupuj\u00ed v\u00a0hlubok\u00fdch trhlin\u00e1ch a\u00a0vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed vlastn\u00ed p\u00edsmo vyryt\u00e9 do\u00a0kamene. Uprost\u0159ed t\u00e9to pustiny stoj\u00ed Poulnabrone Dolmen, kamenn\u00e1 hrobka star\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e pyramidy v\u00a0G\u00edze. Dva vzp\u0159\u00edmen\u00e9 bloky nesou vodorovn\u00fd k\u00e1men, kter\u00fd vypad\u00e1, jako by levitoval mezi nebem a\u00a0zem\u00ed. Burren nen\u00ed kraj, kter\u00fd by se zal\u00edbil na\u00a0prvn\u00ed pohled. Je nehostinn\u00fd, \u0161ediv\u00fd, ml\u010denliv\u00fd. Ale kdo tu chv\u00edli z\u016fstane, pochop\u00ed, \u017ee i\u00a0k\u00e1men m\u00e1 svou poezii.<\/p>\n

Z\u00e1padn\u00ed Irsko<\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00edch n\u011bkolik dal\u0161\u00edch dn\u00ed se toul\u00e1m po\u00a0z\u00e1padn\u00edm Irsku, pod\u00e9l proslul\u00e9 Wild Atlantic Way: mezi \u00fatesy a\u00a0vnitrozem\u00edm, mezi de\u0161t\u011bm a\u00a0sluncem, krajem kamenn\u00fdch z\u00eddek, kter\u00e9 se t\u00e1hnou a\u017e k\u00a0obzoru, krajem ra\u0161elini\u0161\u0165 a\u00a0zelen\u00fdch \u00fadol\u00ed. Cestou m\u00edj\u00edm mno\u017estv\u00ed historick\u00fdch m\u00edst, od\u00a0neolitick\u00fdch pol\u00ed C\u00e9ide Fields\u00a0v\u00a0hrabstv\u00ed\u00a0Mayo, s\u00a0nejrozs\u00e1hlej\u0161\u00edm pam\u00e1tn\u00edkem doby kamenn\u00e9 na\u00a0sv\u011bt\u011b, a\u017e po\u00a0kostel v\u00a0Drumcliffu\u00a0v\u00a0hrabstv\u00ed\u00a0Sligo, kde je poh\u0159ben zn\u00e1m\u00fd irsk\u00fd b\u00e1sn\u00edk\u00a0W. B. Yeats. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 z\u00a0t\u011bchto m\u00edst skr\u00fdv\u00e1 sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh, tich\u00fd, zapu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd do\u00a0krajiny.<\/p>\n

Poloostrov Horn Head, hrabstv\u00ed Donegal | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

\u201eTak divok\u00e9, \u017eelezem spoutan\u00e9 pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed \u2013 s\u00a0v\u00fdhledem na\u00a0oce\u00e1n, jak\u00fd jsem dosud nevid\u011bla, a\u00a0s\u00a0takov\u00fdm z\u00e1pasem vln a\u00a0skal, jak\u00fd jsem si kdy dok\u00e1zala p\u0159edstavit.\u201c<\/p>\n

T\u011bmito slovy popsala z\u00e1padn\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Irska, Charlotte Bront\u00ebov\u00e1, autorka Jany Eyrov\u00e9,\u00a0kter\u00e1 str\u00e1vila svou svatebn\u00ed cestu v\u00a0Irsku a\u00a0pod\u00e9l z\u00e1padn\u00edho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed doputovala a\u017e k\u00a0Loop Head\u00a0v\u00a0hrabstv\u00ed\u00a0Clare. I\u00a0po\u00a0v\u00edce ne\u017e p\u016fldruh\u00e9m stolet\u00ed jej\u00ed slova p\u0159esn\u011b vystihuj\u00ed charakter irsk\u00e9ho z\u00e1padu, nezkrotn\u00e9ho, neuhlazen\u00e9ho, a\u00a0p\u0159itom podmaniv\u00e9ho zp\u016fsobem, kter\u00fd se ned\u00e1 zapomenout.<\/p>\n

\u010clenit\u00e9 atlantsk\u00e9 pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed s\u00a0\u00fatesy a\u00a0\u00fazk\u00fdmi silnicemi vinouc\u00edmi se nad mo\u0159em, typick\u00e1 krajina ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti irsk\u00e9ho ostrova | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Ze v\u0161ech m\u00edst v\u00a0Irsku m\u011b jako fotografa nejv\u00edc uchv\u00e1til Donegal. Kraj s\u00a0v\u00edce ne\u017e tis\u00edcem kilometr\u016f pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, kde se mo\u0159e a\u00a0zem\u011b setk\u00e1vaj\u00ed v\u00a0nekone\u010dn\u00e9m objet\u00ed, mezi p\u00edse\u010dn\u00fdmi pl\u00e1\u017eemi a\u00a0rozeklan\u00fdmi \u00fatesy. V\u00edtr tu m\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed trv\u00e1n\u00ed,
nikdy zcela neutich\u00e1, jen m\u011bn\u00ed s\u00edlu a\u00a0sm\u011br. Pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Donegalu pat\u0159\u00ed k\u00a0nejdivo\u010dej\u0161\u00edm v\u00a0zemi a\u00a0W. B. Yeats naz\u00fdval tento kraj sv\u00fdm duchovn\u00edm domovem. U\u00a0Slieve League se skaln\u00ed st\u011bny zvedaj\u00ed do\u00a0v\u00fd\u0161ky \u0161esti set metr\u016f, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 t\u0159ikr\u00e1t v\u00edc ne\u017e slavn\u00e9 Mohersk\u00e9 \u00fatesy. V\u00fdhled odsud bere dech, strm\u00e9 sr\u00e1zy padaj\u00ed kolmo do\u00a0vody, mo\u0159sk\u00e1 p\u011bna se t\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed o\u00a0\u010dern\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly, tr\u00e1va se oh\u00fdb\u00e1 pod poryvy v\u011btru a\u00a0v\u00a0d\u00e1lce dun\u00ed hlubok\u00fd hlas Atlantiku. Sed\u00edm naho\u0159e na\u00a0\u00fatesu, \u010dek\u00e1m, a\u017e posledn\u00ed paprsky slunce zmiz\u00ed za\u00a0horizontem, v\u00edtr mi cloum\u00e1 kapuc\u00ed, vzduch je nas\u00e1kl\u00fd vlhkost\u00ed a\u00a0sol\u00ed, t\u0159esu se zimou, ale nechce se mi odej\u00edt.<\/p>\n

Za\u00a0dobrou n\u00e1ladou<\/p>\n

Pokra\u010duji \u201eza\u00a0sluncem\u201c do\u00a0Galway, m\u011bsta rytmu a\u00a0dobr\u00e9 n\u00e1lady, m\u011bsta, kter\u00e9 je zkondenzovan\u00fdm obrazem Irska. Pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011blci, irsk\u00e9 puby s\u00a0whiskey, guinnessem a\u00a0fish & chips \u2013 v\u0161e na\u00a0jednom m\u00edst\u011b. Ulice jsou pln\u00e9 turist\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed posed\u00e1vaj\u00ed na\u00a0kamenn\u00fdch z\u00eddk\u00e1ch u\u00a0\u0159eky Corrib, nakupuj\u00ed suven\u00fdry a\u00a0nech\u00e1vaj\u00ed se un\u00e1\u0161et melodiemi, je\u017e zn\u00ed z\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9ho rohu.<\/p>\n

\"Neodmysliteln\u00e1<\/a>Neodmysliteln\u00e1 sou\u010d\u00e1st \u017eivota v\u011bt\u0161iny Ir\u016f? Pinta dobr\u00e9ho piva v obl\u00edben\u00e9 hospod\u011b!<\/a><\/p>\n

M\u011bsto m\u00e1 s\u00a0hudbou pevn\u00fd vztah a\u00a0proslavil ho i\u00a0Ed Sheeran sv\u00fdm hitem Galway Girl. A\u010dkoliv jsou ulice pln\u00e9 pouli\u010dn\u00edch zp\u011bv\u00e1k\u016f, budouc\u00edho Sheerana tu nesly\u0161\u00edm. Nejhor\u0161\u00ed produkci p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed dva n\u00e1ctilet\u00ed chlapci; zp\u00edvaj\u00ed neskute\u010dn\u011b fale\u0161n\u011b, ale s\u00a0takovou chut\u00ed, \u017ee si z\u00edskaj\u00ed poslucha\u010de na\u00a0cel\u00e9m n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. \u201eTo je ta nejhor\u0161\u00ed verze Oasis, co jsem kdy sly\u0161el,\u201c poznamen\u00e1 jeden z\u00a0poslucha\u010d\u016f a\u00a0s\u00a0\u00fasm\u011bvem jim hod\u00ed do\u00a0plechovky desetieurovku.<\/p>\n

V\u00e1pencov\u00e1 plo\u0161ina Burren, hrabstv\u00ed Clare | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Je ned\u011ble odpoledne a\u00a0Galway o\u017e\u00edv\u00e1. Vpodve\u010der se restaurace a\u00a0hosp\u016fdky pln\u00ed, z\u00a0oken se line hudba a\u00a0v\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu sed\u00ed mal\u00e1 kapela. Projdu b\u011bhem ve\u010dera \u010dty\u0159i bary nebo mo\u017en\u00e1 v\u00edc, u\u00a0\u010dtvrt\u00e9ho p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1m po\u010d\u00edtat. V\u0161ude se opakuje tot\u00e9\u017e: vstoup\u00edm s\u00e1m jako \u00fapln\u00fd cizinec a\u00a0b\u011bhem p\u00e1r minut si n\u011bkdo p\u0159isedne, za\u010dne konverzace, n\u011bkdo nab\u00eddne pivo, v\u00a0dal\u0161\u00ed rund\u011b to oplat\u00edm. V\u00a0Galway se samota rozpou\u0161t\u00ed stejn\u011b rychle jako p\u011bna na\u00a0pivu. Takovou otev\u0159enost jsem v\u00a0Evrop\u011b dlouho neza\u017eil. No\u010dn\u00ed toulky m\u011bstem kon\u010d\u00edm ve\u00a0slavn\u00e9m O\u2019Connor\u2019s Famous Pub v\u00a0\u010d\u00e1sti Salthill, zt\u011blesn\u011bn\u00ed irsk\u00e9ho pubu. Star\u00fd d\u016fm se stropy pokryt\u00fdmi lucernami, mosaz\u00ed, star\u00fdmi cedulemi a\u00a0z\u00e1chrann\u00fdmi kruhy z\u00a0lod\u00ed, kter\u00e9 u\u017e d\u00e1vno dopluly. Hospoda, kde se m\u00eds\u00ed sm\u00edch s\u00a0hudbou a\u00a0guinness s\u00a0whiskey, se objevila i\u00a0v\u00a0klipu Galway Girl. Dnes tu na\u00a0kytaru hraje Noel Furey, rod\u00e1k z\u00a0Galway. St\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 irsk\u00e9 balady s\u00a0p\u00edsn\u011bmi Simona & Garfunkela a\u00a0publikum zp\u00edv\u00e1 s\u00a0n\u00edm. Vzduch je t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd v\u016fn\u00ed piva a\u00a0star\u00e9ho d\u0159eva, hudba neust\u00e1v\u00e1 a\u00a0nezn\u00e1m\u00ed lid\u00e9 si pov\u00eddaj\u00ed, jako by se znali odjak\u017eiva.<\/p>\n

Menhiry a\u00a0kruhy<\/p>\n

Po\u00a0cel\u00e9m irsk\u00e9m ostrov\u011b stoj\u00ed des\u00edtky kamenn\u00fdch kruh\u016f a\u00a0menhir\u016f. Jeden z\u00a0nich, Drombeg, m\u00edj\u00edm cestou na\u00a0jih. V\u00a0pulzuj\u00edc\u00edm ml\u017en\u00e9m oparu se kameny ztr\u00e1cej\u00ed i\u00a0zjevuj\u00ed, jako by d\u00fdchaly s\u00a0krajinou. Jsem tu t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 s\u00e1m, jen ob\u010das doraz\u00ed p\u00e1r n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f, nej\u010dast\u011bji zamilovan\u00e9 dvojice, kter\u00e9 si stoupnou doprost\u0159ed kruhu, obejmou se a\u00a0chv\u00edli z\u016fstanou. Mo\u017en\u00e1 \u010derpaj\u00ed energii, mo\u017en\u00e1 jen klid, kter\u00fd tu vane od\u00a0prav\u011bku. Mlha prosakuje drobn\u00fdm de\u0161t\u011bm, tr\u00e1va klou\u017ee, z\u00a0okoln\u00edch pol\u00ed se oz\u00fdv\u00e1 be\u010den\u00ed ovc\u00ed. Kameny stoj\u00ed nehnut\u011b, jako by hl\u00eddaly \u010das, kter\u00fd se tu zastavil d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi.<\/p>\n

Kamenn\u00fd kruh Drombeg, hrabstv\u00ed Cork | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Na\u00a0jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b Irska, v\u00a0hrabstv\u00ed Cork a\u00a0Kerry, proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edm krajinou, kde se mo\u0159e, hory a\u00a0vesnice prol\u00ednaj\u00ed v\u00a0jeden celek. Pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je drsn\u00e9 a\u00a0\u010dlenit\u00e9, sk\u00e1ly se zvedaj\u00ed z\u00a0Atlantiku a\u00a0mezi nimi se kr\u010d\u00ed mal\u00e9 ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 osady s\u00a0domy nat\u0159en\u00fdmi do\u00a0v\u0161ech odst\u00edn\u016f \u010derven\u00e9, modr\u00e9 a\u00a0zelen\u00e9. Kerry p\u0159itahuje svou rozmanitost\u00ed: horsk\u00e1 jezera, kamenn\u00e9 kruhy i\u00a0kl\u00e1\u0161tery, kter\u00e9 pamatuj\u00ed prvn\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 mnichy. Na\u00a0z\u00e1pad\u011b Corku i\u00a0pod\u00e9l zdej\u0161\u00edho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed le\u017e\u00ed jedny z\u00a0nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed v\u00a0Irsku, kde mo\u0159e m\u011bn\u00ed barvu s\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00fdm mrakem. Z\u00a0mysu Kerry vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm lod\u00ed ke\u00a0Skellig Islands, dvojici skalnat\u00fdch ostrov\u016f vystupuj\u00edc\u00edch z\u00a0mo\u0159e jako z\u00a0jin\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. Na\u00a0v\u011bt\u0161\u00edm z\u00a0nich, Skellig Michael, \u017eili od\u00a06. stolet\u00ed mni\u0161i v\u00a0kamenn\u00fdch ch\u00fd\u0161\u00edch postaven\u00fdch na\u00a0\u00fazk\u00fdch teras\u00e1ch. Dnes je ostrov zaps\u00e1n na\u00a0seznamu UNESCO a\u00a0jeho kamenn\u00e9 \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b se stalo d\u011bji\u0161t\u011bm z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fdch sc\u00e9n filmu Star Wars: Posledn\u00ed z\u00a0Jedi\u016f.<\/p>\n

P\u0159esto\u017ee je za\u010d\u00e1tek \u010dervence, teploty se v\u011bt\u0161inou dr\u017e\u00ed mezi dvan\u00e1cti a\u017e osmn\u00e1cti stupni, v\u00a0hor\u00e1ch a\u00a0na\u00a0pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed i\u00a0m\u00e9n\u011b. D\u00e9\u0161\u0165 se mi da\u0159\u00ed obch\u00e1zet jen z\u0159\u00eddka; prudk\u00e9 p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ky m\u011b zastihuj\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 denn\u011b, \u010dasto zcela ne\u010dekan\u011b. \u201eV\u00a0hospod\u011b nepr\u0161\u00ed,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 star\u00e9 irsk\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edslov\u00ed. A\u00a0j\u00e1 dod\u00e1v\u00e1m: \u201eAni v\u00a0pal\u00edrn\u00e1ch ne.\u201c Nep\u0159\u00edze\u0148 po\u010das\u00ed beru jako p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost poznat to nejir\u0161t\u011bj\u0161\u00ed z\u00a0Irska, jeho hospody, pal\u00edrny, pintu guinnesse, sklenku t\u0159ikr\u00e1t destilovan\u00e9 whiskey a\u00a0horkou irskou k\u00e1vu. D\u00e9\u0161\u0165 se st\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00edtanou z\u00e1minkou z\u016fstat chv\u00edli pod st\u0159echou destil\u00e9rek, t\u0159eba v\u00a0Midletonu, Tullamore, Glendalough nebo Kilbegganu, kde vzduch von\u00ed po\u00a0je\u010dmeni, d\u0159evu a\u00a0p\u00e1\u0159e. Star\u00e9 cihlov\u00e9 zdi, m\u011bd\u011bn\u00e9 kotle, dubov\u00e9 pulty, v\u0161echno m\u00e1 sv\u016fj \u0159\u00e1d stvrzen\u00fd stalet\u00edmi. Sou\u010dasn\u00e9 irsk\u00e9 hospody si st\u00e1le dr\u017e\u00ed sv\u00e9 m\u00edsto v\u00a0srdci komunity.\u00a0V\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9 vesnici, v\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku je pub v\u00edc ne\u017e jen podnik, je to spole\u010densk\u00fd st\u0159ed, m\u00edsto, kde se sd\u00edl\u00ed radost, smutek, p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy, novinky, nostalgie i\u00a0sm\u00edch. Ve\u00a0v\u0161ech panuje hluk, ale sou\u010dasn\u011b pohoda a\u00a0klid. Pouze v\u00a0jednom baru ve\u00a0vesnici Tullamore se do\u00a0sebe pust\u00ed dva star\u0161\u00ed \u0161tamgasti, ale kdy\u017e si jdou z\u00e1le\u017eitost \u201evy\u0159\u00eddit\u201c ven, kon\u010d\u00ed v\u00a0p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9m objet\u00ed a\u00a0vrac\u00ed se k\u00a0baru. A\u00a0tak se cestou, mezi lij\u00e1ky, u\u010d\u00edm rytmu irsk\u00e9ho \u017eivota: pomal\u00e9mu, p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9mu, provon\u011bn\u00e9mu sladem a\u00a0prask\u00e1n\u00edm ohn\u011b.<\/p>\n

Ji\u017en\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed<\/p>\n

Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edm pod\u00e9l ji\u017en\u00edho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, kde se krajina vln\u00ed jako zelen\u00e1 mozaika star\u00fdch \u010das\u016f \u2013 pastviny jsou tu ohrani\u010den\u00e9 kamenn\u00fdmi z\u00eddkami, jako by mal\u00ed\u0159 roz\u010dlenil pl\u00e1tno do\u00a0p\u0159esn\u00e9 geometrie. Vzduch je sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed, mo\u0159sk\u00fd a slan\u00fd, slunce kresl\u00ed pruhy sv\u011btla p\u0159es pole a\u00a0staven\u00ed rozeset\u00e1 pod\u00e9l pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed p\u016fsob\u00ed klidn\u011b, zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00e1 ve\u00a0sv\u00e9 samot\u011b. V\u00a0d\u00e1lce se r\u00fdsuj\u00ed modrav\u00e9 h\u0159ebeny hor, za\u00a0nimi\u017e se vln\u00ed \u0161ir\u00e9 mo\u0159e. Silnice se vine po\u00a0\u00fatesech jako tenk\u00e1 nit mezi nebem a\u00a0oce\u00e1nem. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 zat\u00e1\u010dka odhal\u00ed nov\u00fd pohled \u2013 zlatav\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ee v\u00a0chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00fdch z\u00e1tok\u00e1ch, divok\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly ohlodan\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edbojem i\u00a0tich\u00e1 staven\u00ed, jejich\u017e b\u00edl\u00e9 zdi kontrastuj\u00ed se sytou zelen\u00ed trav. Tohle je Irsko, jak\u00e9 zn\u00e1me z\u00a0knih, film\u016f a\u00a0legend: drsn\u00e9 i\u00a0n\u011b\u017en\u00e9 z\u00e1rove\u0148, prost\u00e9, ale hluboce malebn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Ji\u017en\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Irska: typick\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e1 krajina s\u00a0osadami, zelen\u00fdmi svahy a\u00a0\u010dlenit\u00fdm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Pokra\u010duji do\u00a0takzvan\u00e9 Zahrady Irska na\u00a0jihov\u00fdchod\u011b ostrova. Tato oblast se py\u0161n\u00ed m\u00edrn\u00fdm klimatem a\u00a0krajinou, kde se horsk\u00e9 svahy st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed s\u00a0jezery, loukami a\u00a0star\u00fdmi kl\u00e1\u0161tery. Srdcem regionu jsou Wicklow Mountains, nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park zem\u011b. V\u00a0jejich \u00fadol\u00ed le\u017e\u00ed Glendalough, \u201e\u00fadol\u00ed dvou jezer\u201c, s\u00a0poz\u016fstatky kl\u00e1\u0161tera svat\u00e9ho Kevina ze 6. stolet\u00ed. I\u00a0p\u0159es \u010dast\u00e9 skupiny turist\u016f si m\u00edsto uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru \u2013 spojen\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed architektury, lesa a\u00a0jezer sev\u0159en\u00fdch mezi horami. Vyd\u00e1v\u00e1m se pod\u00e9l Military Road, horsk\u00e9 silnice z\u00a0po\u010d\u00e1tku 19. stolet\u00ed, p\u016fvodn\u011b postaven\u00e9 pro britsk\u00e9 vojsko. Dnes pat\u0159\u00ed k\u00a0nejp\u016fsobiv\u011bj\u0161\u00edm tras\u00e1m Irska. Vede z\u00a0Glencree p\u0159es Sally Gap, odkud se otev\u00edraj\u00ed v\u00fdhledy na\u00a0v\u0159esovi\u0161t\u011b, \u00fadol\u00ed a\u00a0jezera, a\u00a0pokra\u010duje k\u00a0Glendalough. Pr\u00e1v\u011b tady se nat\u00e1\u010dely filmy State\u010dn\u00e9 srdce nebo P.S. I\u00a0Love You. Wicklow je krajem p\u0159ehledn\u00fdm a\u00a0klidn\u00fdm, s\u00a0harmoni\u00ed, kter\u00e9 si \u010dlov\u011bk v\u0161imne a\u017e ve\u00a0chv\u00edli, kdy zpomal\u00ed. A\u00a0proto nejlep\u0161\u00ed zp\u016fsob, jak tento kraj poznat, je vystoupit z\u00a0auta a\u00a0vydat se p\u011b\u0161ky po\u00a0Wicklow Way, nejstar\u0161\u00ed stezce Irska, krajinou, kter\u00e1 se neust\u00e1le prom\u011b\u0148uje, lesy st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed ra\u0161elini\u0161t\u011b, kamenn\u00e9 z\u00eddky miz\u00ed v\u00a0mlze a\u00a0kroky se ztr\u00e1cej\u00ed v\u00a0tichu hor.<\/p>\n

Dublin<\/p>\n

P\u0159ed cestou na\u00a0\u00fapln\u00fd sever ostrova se na\u00a0p\u00e1r dn\u00ed zastavuji v\u00a0Dublinu. Auto nech\u00e1v\u00e1m na\u00a0parkovi\u0161ti a\u00a0m\u011bsto pozn\u00e1v\u00e1m p\u011b\u0161ky, p\u0159es den mezi historick\u00fdmi pam\u00e1tkami a\u00a0muzei, po\u00a0ve\u010derech v\u00a0pubech, barech a\u00a0pal\u00edrn\u00e1ch. Oboj\u00edho je tu v\u00edc ne\u017e dost, nam\u00edchan\u00e9ho v\u00a0pestr\u00e9m m\u011bstsk\u00e9m koktejlu.<\/p>\n

\"Opojen\u00ed<\/a>Opojen\u00ed magicky kr\u00e1snou p\u0159\u00edrodou irsk\u00e9ho poho\u0159\u00ed Wicklow nezkaz\u00ed ani bodav\u00fd hmyz \u010di prom\u011bnliv\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed<\/a><\/p>\n

V\u00a0sam\u00e9m srdci m\u011bsta stoj\u00ed Trinity College, nejstar\u0161\u00ed univerzita Irska. Jej\u00ed Star\u00e1 knihovna z\u00a018. stolet\u00ed je dechberouc\u00ed s\u00edn\u00ed, v\u00edce ne\u017e \u0161edes\u00e1t metr\u016f dlouhou, s\u00a0dv\u011bma sty tis\u00edci historick\u00fdmi svazky, mramorov\u00fdmi bustami u\u010denc\u016f a\u00a0harfou Brian Boru, n\u00e1rodn\u00edm symbolem Irska. Pr\u00e1v\u011b tady je uchovan\u00fd i\u00a0slavn\u00fd Evangeli\u00e1\u0159 z\u00a0Kellsu, bohat\u011b iluminovan\u00fd rukopis z\u00a09. stolet\u00ed. O\u00a0p\u00e1r ulic d\u00e1l se zved\u00e1 Christ Church Cathedral, katedr\u00e1la pamatuj\u00edc\u00ed \u010dasy Viking\u016f, a\u00a0nedaleko od\u00a0n\u00ed St Patrick\u2019s Cathedral, spojen\u00e1 se jm\u00e9nem autora Gulliverov\u00fdch cest, Jonathanem Swiftem, kter\u00fd tu byl od\u00a0roku 1713 a\u017e do\u00a0sv\u00e9 smrti d\u011bkanem.<\/p>\n

Ru\u0161n\u00e1 \u010dtvr\u0165 Temple Bar v\u00a0Dublinu nab\u00edz\u00ed nep\u0159etr\u017eit\u00fd proud pouli\u010dn\u00edch sc\u00e9n | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Dublin je po\u00a0stalet\u00ed spjat s\u00a0nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm pivem sv\u011bta. Guinness, temn\u011b \u010dern\u00e9 pivo s\u00a0kr\u00e9movou p\u011bnou, je symbolem Irska stejn\u011b siln\u00fdm jako harfa nebo zelen\u00fd trojl\u00edstek. Jeho p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh za\u010dal roku 1759, kdy Arthur Guinness podepsal v\u00a0Dublinu n\u00e1jemn\u00ed smlouvu na\u00a0pivovar St. James\u2019s Gate na\u00a0dev\u011bt tis\u00edc let. Stout, kter\u00fd tu vznikl, se brzy stal legendou: hutn\u00fd, s\u00a0v\u016fn\u00ed pra\u017een\u00e9ho je\u010dmene a\u00a0jemnou ho\u0159kost\u00ed chmele. I\u00a0slavn\u00e1 Guinnessova kniha rekord\u016f nese jeho jm\u00e9no; vznikla v\u00a0roce 1954, kdy tehdej\u0161\u00ed \u0159editel pivovaru Hugh Beaver cht\u011bl m\u00edt po\u00a0ruce p\u0159\u00edru\u010dku pro rozhodov\u00e1n\u00ed hospodsk\u00fdch spor\u016f.<\/p>\n

Ve\u010der se p\u0159esouv\u00e1m do\u00a0\u010dtvrti Temple Bar, hlu\u010dn\u00e9, barevn\u00e9, p\u0159epln\u011bn\u00e9, pln\u00e9 hospod a\u00a0turist\u016f. Lid\u00e9 p\u00f3zuj\u00ed p\u0159ed blikaj\u00edc\u00edmi n\u00e1pisy, m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0161tamgasti up\u00edjej\u00ed ze sklenek v\u00a0z\u00e1kout\u00edch bar\u016f a\u00a0n\u011bkdo zrovna kr\u00e1\u010d\u00ed kolem v\u00a0kost\u00fdmu, kter\u00fd by jinde vyvolal pozdvi\u017een\u00ed, tady v\u0161ak nezp\u016fsob\u00ed ani zvednut\u00e9 obo\u010d\u00ed. Svoboda tu nen\u00ed sloganem, ale p\u0159irozen\u00fdm stavem v\u011bc\u00ed. Hudba tu hraje na\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu, v\u011bt\u0161inou coververze zn\u00e1m\u00fdch p\u00edsn\u00ed, zes\u00edlen\u00e9 mikrofony a\u00a0reproduktory. Irsk\u00e1 autenticita, kterou zn\u00e1m z\u00a0venkova, se tu trochu ztr\u00e1c\u00ed. P\u0159esto m\u00e1 \u010dtvr\u0165 sv\u00e9 kouzlo; sta\u010d\u00ed sej\u00edt z\u00a0hlavn\u00ed ulice a\u00a0ocitnu se v\u00a0\u00fazk\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch, kde se ve\u00a0v\u00fdkladn\u00edch sklech zrcadl\u00ed d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 a\u00a0lid\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed nikam nesp\u011bchaj\u00ed. A\u00a0i\u00a0tady, v\u00a0\u017eiv\u00e9 dublinsk\u00e9 hospod\u011b, vn\u00edm\u00e1m to, co p\u0159ed p\u00e1r dny v\u00a0zapomenut\u00e9m v\u00fd\u010depu na\u00a0z\u00e1padn\u00edm pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed: \u017ee pub je m\u00edstem, kde se v\u0161echno setk\u00e1v\u00e1, minulost i\u00a0p\u0159\u00edtomnost, radost i\u00a0melancholie, samota i\u00a0spole\u010denstv\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Jameson Distillery: ochutn\u00e1vka irsk\u00e9 whiskey v\u00a0historick\u00e9 pal\u00edrn\u011b v\u00a0centru Dublinu | Zdroj: Franti\u0161ek \u0160taud<\/p>\n

Posledn\u00ed odpoledne pr\u0161\u00ed natolik, \u017ee odkl\u00e1d\u00e1m fotoapar\u00e1t a\u00a0vyd\u00e1v\u00e1m se do\u00a0proslul\u00e9 The Whiskey Reserve, baru v\u00a0srdci m\u011bsta. Na\u00a0polic\u00edch tu stoj\u00ed p\u0159es dva tis\u00edce r\u016fzn\u00fdch lahv\u00ed whiskey z\u00a0cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. Barman mi vybere n\u011bkolik irsk\u00fdch single pot still\u016f, hladk\u00fdch, lehce ko\u0159enit\u00fdch, s\u00a0p\u0159\u00edchut\u00ed vanilky a\u00a0dubu. Z\u00a0nevinn\u00e9 ochutn\u00e1vky se st\u00e1v\u00e1 mal\u00fd ritu\u00e1l. Jak \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 jeden z\u00a0nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch dublinsk\u00fdch rod\u00e1k\u016f, Oscar Wilde: \u201eDok\u00e1\u017eu odolat v\u0161emu, krom\u011b poku\u0161en\u00ed.\u201c Ve\u00a0Whiskey Reserve Bar to plat\u00ed dvojn\u00e1sob.<\/p>\n

Lou\u010d\u00edm se s\u00a0Dublinem, s\u00a0Irskem, bal\u00edm v\u011bci do\u00a0auta a\u00a0vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm na\u00a0sever ostrova. Za\u00a0hranic\u00ed m\u011b \u010dek\u00e1 jin\u00e1 zem\u011b, Severn\u00ed Irsko, odd\u011blen\u00e1 ne plotem, ale d\u011bjinami. Obloha se zatahuje, krajina tmavne a\u00a0j\u00e1 se t\u011b\u0161\u00edm na\u00a0dal\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"P\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f po\u010das\u00ed m\u011b z\u00a0dublinsk\u00e9ho leti\u0161t\u011b pos\u00edl\u00e1 nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d cel\u00fdm ostrovem, t\u0159i sta kilometr\u016f po\u00a0d\u00e1lnici, abych stihl z\u00e1pad slunce nad…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":47257,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[536,5405,11862,109,108,106,17874,84,949,5863,17875,1523],"class_list":{"0":"post-47256","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-evropa","8":"tag-cestovani","9":"tag-cork","10":"tag-dublin","11":"tag-europa","12":"tag-europe","13":"tag-evropa","14":"tag-galway","15":"tag-hudba","16":"tag-irsko","17":"tag-lide-a-zeme","18":"tag-menhiry","19":"tag-mesto"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@cz\/116359244272088833","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/47256","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=47256"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/47256\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/47257"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=47256"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=47256"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=47256"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}