{"id":72239,"date":"2026-05-01T08:17:10","date_gmt":"2026-05-01T08:17:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/72239\/"},"modified":"2026-05-01T08:17:10","modified_gmt":"2026-05-01T08:17:10","slug":"bez-rizika-smrti-neni-horolezec-horolezcem-rika-messner-na-sve-posledni-expedici","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/72239\/","title":{"rendered":"Bez rizika smrti nen\u00ed horolezec horolezcem, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Messner na sv\u00e9 posledn\u00ed expedici"},"content":{"rendered":"

Legend\u00e1rn\u00ed horolezec Reinhold Messner absolvoval v\u00a0\u010cesku trojici p\u0159edn\u00e1\u0161ek v\u00a0r\u00e1mci turn\u00e9 The Final Expedition (v p\u0159ekladu Posledn\u00ed expedice), kde ve\u0159ejnosti p\u0159edstavoval hodnoty tradi\u010dn\u00edho horolezectv\u00ed. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ty jsou v\u00a0sou\u010dasn\u00e9m modern\u00edm sv\u011bt\u011b st\u00e1le v\u00edce v\u00a0ohro\u017een\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\u201eHorolezectv\u00ed vzniklo v\u00a0Alp\u00e1ch. Proto my Evropan\u00e9 neseme odpov\u011bdnost za to, aby se tato aktivita, kter\u00e1 se stala celosv\u011btov\u00fdm fenom\u00e9nem, rozv\u00edjela i\u00a0do budoucna. Horolezectv\u00ed se za posledn\u00edch 30\u00a0let radik\u00e1ln\u011b zm\u011bnilo. Je to v\u00fdvoj a\u00a0je to v\u00a0po\u0159\u00e1dku. Nem\u011bli bychom ale zapom\u00ednat, jak horolezectv\u00ed, respektive alpinismus, p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b p\u0159ed 200\u00a0lety vznikalo, jak se vyv\u00edjela jeho historie a\u00a0jak se b\u011bhem dvou stolet\u00ed formovaly hodnoty, kter\u00e9 definuj\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00ed horolezectv\u00ed,\u201c uvedl p\u0159i setk\u00e1n\u00ed s\u00a0novin\u00e1\u0159i v\u00a0den jeho posledn\u00edho ve\u0159ejn\u00e9ho vystoupen\u00ed v\u00a0\u010cesku.<\/p>\n

Riziko smrti je nutnost\u00ed<\/p>\n

Jedenaosmdes\u00e1tilet\u00fd Messner se proslavil horolezeck\u00fdmi v\u00fdstupy v\u00a0sedmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch a\u00a0osmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch letech, b\u011bhem kter\u00fdch boural p\u0159edstavy o\u00a0tom, co lze v\u00a0t\u00e9to discipl\u00edn\u011b dok\u00e1zat.<\/p>\n

Jako prvn\u00ed poko\u0159il Mount Everest bez pou\u017eit\u00ed kysl\u00edkov\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstroje, stejn\u011b tak zdolal i\u00a0v\u0161echny zbyl\u00e9 osmitis\u00edcovky – tak\u00e9 jako prvn\u00ed. Prvenstv\u00ed dr\u017e\u00ed i\u00a0v absolvov\u00e1n\u00ed s\u00f3lov\u00e9ho v\u00fdstupu na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed horu sv\u011bta.<\/p>\n

A pr\u00e1v\u011b um\u011bn\u00ed p\u0159e\u017e\u00edt v\u00a0hor\u00e1ch d\u00edky schopnostem, odvaze, intuici a\u00a0zku\u0161enosti sp\u00ed\u0161e ne\u017e za pomoci modern\u00edho technick\u00e9ho vybaven\u00ed pova\u017euje Messner za tradi\u010dn\u00ed styl. Zd\u016fraz\u0148uje tak\u00e9, \u017ee horolezectv\u00ed nen\u00ed sportem, ve kter\u00e9m se pom\u011b\u0159uje a\u00a0sout\u011b\u017e\u00ed, ale dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm.<\/p>\n

\u201eAlpinist\u00e9 chod\u00ed tam, kde nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 infrastruktura, kam nikdo jin\u00fd nechod\u00ed. Ocitaj\u00ed se v\u00a0situac\u00edch, kter\u00e9 mohou b\u00fdt smrteln\u011b nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9. Bez rizika smrti nen\u00ed alpinista alpinistou. V\u00a0t\u00e9hle rovin\u011b se mnou souhlas\u00ed jen m\u00e1lokdo, ale to, \u017ee je p\u0159\u00edroda milionkr\u00e1t siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e my, je z\u0159ejm\u00e9,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 horolezeck\u00e1 legenda.<\/p>\n

Foto: \u010cTK<\/p>\n

Reinhold Messner nav\u0161t\u00edvil krom\u011b Prahy i\u00a0Zl\u00edn, kde p\u0159evzal cenu festivalu Nezn\u00e1m\u00e1 zem\u011b.<\/p>\n

Tato rovina se ale zejm\u00e9na z\u00a0prost\u0159ed\u00ed nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch hor sv\u011bta st\u00e1le v\u00edce vytr\u00e1c\u00ed. Nejl\u00e9pe to ilustruje samotn\u00fd Mount Everest, ze kter\u00e9ho se stala turistick\u00e1 atrakce. <\/p>\n

\u201eDevades\u00e1t procent dne\u0161n\u00edch vysokohorsk\u00fdch lezc\u016f chod\u00ed po pist\u00e1ch. P\u0159ipraven\u00fdch stop\u00e1ch. Ne\u017e se lezci vydaj\u00ed na vrchol Everestu, takovou p\u016fl metru \u0161irokou cestu p\u0159iprav\u00ed \u0161erpov\u00e9 od z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora a\u017e nahoru. A\u00a0na Everest pak vlastn\u011b m\u016f\u017eete \u201avyj\u00edt\u2018. Po\u0159\u00e1d je to n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9, to ano. Je to ale turismus, podobn\u011b jako v\u00a0Alp\u00e1ch,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Messner a\u00a0kriticky dod\u00e1v\u00e1: \u201eJak ale chcete z\u00edskat skute\u010dn\u011b lidskou zku\u0161enost, kdy\u017e lezete na horu po p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 cest\u011b?!\u201c<\/p>\n

P\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed generace bude m\u00edt podle n\u011bj st\u00e1le m\u00e9n\u011b prostoru za\u017e\u00edt opravdu nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed v\u00a0hor\u00e1ch. \u201eNebude m\u00edt tolik mo\u017enost\u00ed, jako jsem m\u011bl j\u00e1, proto\u017ee dnes je v\u011bt\u0161ina hor obsazen\u00e1. Pomalu si n\u011bkde m\u016f\u017eete podat ruku s\u00a0t\u011bmi, kte\u0159\u00ed jdou dol\u016f,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Messner.<\/p>\n

<\/a>Strach je kompas<\/p>\n

Mo\u017enosti, jak tradi\u010dn\u00ed horolezectv\u00ed provozovat, tu podle Messnera ale st\u00e1le jsou a\u00a0poukazuje na tis\u00edce hor, na kter\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011b nikdo nikdy nevylezl. Horolezci mohou tak\u00e9 objevovat nov\u00e9 trasy. S\u00e1m takto v\u00a0ml\u00e1d\u00ed za\u010d\u00ednal, kdy\u017e je\u0161t\u011b jako skaln\u00ed lezec mnohem rad\u011bji ne\u017e vrcholy poko\u0159oval obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9 cesty. Po t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9m omrzlinov\u00e9m zran\u011bn\u00ed na ho\u0159e Nanga Parbat a\u00a0ztr\u00e1t\u011b sedmi prst\u016f na noze se ale postupn\u011b p\u0159esunul k\u00a0vysokohorsk\u00e9mu lezen\u00ed. <\/p>\n

Ani u\u00a0n\u011bj ale nez\u016fstal a\u00a0od 90.\u00a0let se v\u011bnoval tak\u00e9 extr\u00e9mn\u00edm p\u0159echod\u016fm. P\u011b\u0161ky p\u0159e\u0161el pou\u0161t\u011b Gobi a\u00a0Taklamakan i\u00a0ledovou pustinu Antarktidy. <\/p>\n

\u201ePot\u00e9, co jsem vylezl v\u0161echny osmitis\u00edcovky, tak ne, \u017ee bych byl unaven\u00fd, ale m\u011bl jsem zkr\u00e1tka pocit, \u017ee to za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 b\u00fdt nudn\u00e9. U\u017e jsem v\u011bd\u011bl, jak to zvl\u00e1dat,\u201c vysv\u011btloval Messner s\u00a0t\u00edm, co ho vedlo zm\u011bnit \u201erovinu\u201c z\u00a0vertik\u00e1ln\u00edch v\u00fdprav na ty horizont\u00e1ln\u00ed. <\/p>\n

P\u0159echod ledov\u00e9ho kontinentu na ji\u017en\u00edm p\u00f3lu byl pro n\u011bj pr\u00fd nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1\u017eitkem, p\u0159i kter\u00e9m se c\u00edtil opravdu vystaven napospas. \u201eUprost\u0159ed nen\u00ed v\u00a0okruhu jednoho tis\u00edce kilometr\u016f v\u016fbec nikdo,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Dokazuje t\u00edm ale i\u00a0sv\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010den\u00ed, \u017ee kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdm aspektem v\u00a0jeho filozofii je strach. Ten je podle n\u011bj jako kompas, podle kter\u00e9ho se p\u0159i expedic\u00edch \u0159\u00eddit. V\u00a0jeho p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b ob\u010das neblah\u00fd pocit st\u00e1l za t\u00edm, kdy se rad\u011bji oto\u010dil a\u00a0zavzpom\u00ednal na jeden ze sv\u00fdch pokus\u016f o\u00a0v\u00fdstup hory \u010co Oju.<\/p>\n

\u201eVe dvou jsme se v\u00a0zim\u011b pokou\u0161eli o\u00a0v\u00fdstup jihov\u00fdchodn\u00ed st\u011bnou. Kdy\u017e jsme byli asi 200\u00a0metr\u016f pod vrcholem, byla p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi obrovsk\u00e1 sn\u011bhov\u00e1 konk\u00e1va. Z\u0159eteln\u011b jsme c\u00edtili, \u017ee ten sn\u00edh jen \u010dek\u00e1 na sebemen\u0161\u00ed dotek, aby se sesul dol\u016f. Nic jsme ne\u0159ekli, jen jsme se na sebe pod\u00edvali a\u00a0oto\u010dili se zp\u00e1tky. A\u00a0kdy\u017e jsme o\u00a0p\u00e1r dn\u00ed pozd\u011bji byli v\u00a0z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e, ten sn\u00edh tam po\u0159\u00e1d byl,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 s\u00a0t\u00edm, \u017ee mu tehdy p\u0159i\u0161lo na mysl, zda neriskovali m\u00e1lo.<\/p>\n

Chybovat je ale podle Messnera nem\u00e9n\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9. \u201eAbych vylezl v\u0161ech 14\u00a0osmitis\u00edcov\u00fdch vrchol\u016f, musel jsem absolvovat 31\u00a0expedic. T\u0159in\u00e1ctkr\u00e1t jsem selhal. Jsem vd\u011b\u010dn\u00fd, \u017ee jsem to zkou\u0161el tolikr\u00e1t, proto\u017ee jsem se u\u010dil z\u00a0ne\u00fasp\u011bch\u016f a\u00a0nikoliv z\u00a0\u00fasp\u011bch\u016f. N\u011bkdy p\u0159ijde \u00fasp\u011bch snadno, ani nev\u00edte pro\u010d. A\u00a0p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b ud\u011bl\u00e1te chybu, proto\u017ee jste se nepou\u010dili z\u00a0ne\u00fasp\u011bch\u016f, a\u00a0m\u016f\u017ee v\u00e1s to st\u00e1t \u017eivot,\u201c \u0159ekl.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Legend\u00e1rn\u00ed horolezec Reinhold Messner absolvoval v\u00a0\u010cesku trojici p\u0159edn\u00e1\u0161ek v\u00a0r\u00e1mci turn\u00e9 The Final Expedition (v p\u0159ekladu Posledn\u00ed expedice), kde…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":72240,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[43,42,41,40,2207,3697,22403],"class_list":{"0":"post-72239","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-cesko","8":"tag-ceska-republika","9":"tag-cesko","10":"tag-czech-republic","11":"tag-czechia","12":"tag-horolezectvi","13":"tag-mount-everest","14":"tag-reinhold-messner"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@cz\/116498336767823176","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/72239","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=72239"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/72239\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/72240"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=72239"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=72239"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/cz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=72239"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}