Just across the water from Copenhagen’s main canal-side drag, Christianshavn is a quiet patch of the city that may have been put on the map by Noma, but has now made a name for itself beyond chef René Redzepi’s bad press. The neighbourhood is also home to Copenhagen’s self-governing freetown, Christiania – but the best way to catch a glimpse is via a lakeside running route that bypasses the tourist trap itself while weaving between curious waterside shacks and handmade houses. Back on the other side of the canal, a crew of independent businesses has set up shop in former maritime warehouses.