Lola Akinmade’s “Bitter Honey” (Apollo, $26) is out in May
How to summer like a Swede
Evening in Grinda
JENNY ZARINS
‘Pizza Skagen’ at Framfickan
JENNY ZARINSWhere to eat
“I love being able to open up our windows, plan evening parties, and extend our warmth into the street,” Peru-born restaurateur Erika Goytizolo tells me of spending summers in Stockholm. I’m at her down-to-earth Östermalm fusion spot Canta Lola, with a plate of oysters topped with a celadon-green whipped foam of cucumber, lime and jalapeño. The city’s shapeshifting food scene moves from meatballs to miso, reflecting that one in three Swedish residents have a foreign-born parent. “I’m seeing more diversity and risk-taking,” says Goytizolo as she brings over a dish of cured rainbow trout with a chalaquita salsa made with ají amarillo chilli, fennel and miso.
Whether it’s queuing for US-style chicken and waffles at brunch spot Greasy Spoon, ordering crispy yucas and tart shellfish ceviches at Latin American spots Canta Lola and Checa, or going New Nordic with Michelin-starred courses at Frantzén and Ekstedt, eating out in Stockholm means embracing the city’s ever-evolving palate. “It all started with our love of Japanese ramen soup,” says Albin Wessman who, along with fellow Michelin-grade chef and restaurateur Adam Dahlberg, founded Adam/Albin Restaurants. “After a trip to Tokyo, we fell in love with the concept of izakaya – Japanese comfort food.” This led to Misshumasshu, which will reopen in May. When I visit the restaurant, which is inside Birger Jarlspassagen, a covered passageway in Östermalm, Chaka Khan’s “Like Sugar” blasts from the speakers. My guacamasshu arrives, almost too pretty to eat, a whole avocado topped with nori seaweed flakes, coriander, ponzu, white onion and chilli flakes, along with a mallet to turn it into crunchy, umami-infused guacamole to eat with rice paper chips. “The flavours behind our crispy tonkatsu pork are a big favourite,” says Wessman. “In-house kimchi, cilantro and soy mayonnaise served over rice.”