Riga has been calling, and travellers with a weakness for pretty architecture and fine dining are finally starting to listen. The small but mighty Latvian capital – the city proper clocks in at just over half a million inhabitants – is home to the largest collection of art nouveau buildings in the world thanks to a wealth explosion at the turn of the 20th century. Influenced by both the Nordic block and, more recently, post-Soviet revival, the Baltic beauty has grown into a desirable destination.
A snapshot of Riga’s appeal takes in peonies galore, green parks, gold-capped Orthodox churches and cathedrals topped by Gothic steeples. Wander past 13th-century facades on your way to a meal in the Old Town or sip a bitter black balsam before ballet at the National Opera House.
Perhaps most intriguing are the Latvians themselves – stylish, elegant and warmly hospitable, with a deep respect for their hometown which, locals know, is an underrated gem. In a city vying for well-deserved attention, how does one choose a place to stay?
Below, we take a look at the three One-MICHELIN-Key hotels in Riga, those which are sure to appeal to any first, second or even twentieth time visitor.
What It’s All About: A One-Key hotel with a modern style and a chic atmosphere; the perfect ‘stay and dine’ spot for sophisticated foodies.
What was once the American embassy is quite possibly Riga’s most coveted accommodation. Starting with a desirable address across from Viesturdārzs Park, the sleek-and-moody enclave scoops visitors up and away from a bustling Old Town in lieu of a more contemporary affair – at least that’s how John F. Kennedy viewed it when he stayed here as a 22-year-old.
A sophisticated palette of bold colours, rich textures and experiential art pieces indeed appear fit for a country’s leader, as do the 20 rooms with guaranteed natural light. The two-bedroom Presidential Suite is especially enticing, occupying the hotel’s entire top floor and featuring marble accents and a free-standing bathtub.
Downstairs and adjacent to the stately lobby, the One-Star JOHN Chef’s Hall also pays homage to the late US president, but only in name – the menu itself is proudly Latvian. Locally caught Arctic char, ostrich, honeycake – and an abundance of dill – showcase the depth and freshness of the country’s increasingly popular cuisine.
Special Feature: The à la carte breakfast can be served at whatever time you prefer.
Related Read: A Deep Dive Into JOHN Chef’s Hall.
The plush interior of the A22 Hotel, where John F. Kennedy once stayed. © A22 Hotel
A selection of snacks from JOHN Chef’s Hall, set within the A22 Hotel. © Otto Strazds/JOHN Chef’s Hall
What It’s All About: A One-Key hotel with Scandinavian styling and an intimate atmosphere; its personalised spa makes it a great base for romance seekers.
Tucked away on a cobblestoned street in the centre of Vecrīga (Old Riga), the first and most impressive feature here is how quiet the surroundings are, despite its central location.
Without the charming outdoor terrace in front, one could feasibly walk right by believing that the grand wooden door was just another charming aesthetic of the delightfully designed city. But step inside what looks like a thoughtfully and wealthily procured house, and you’ll find a curved wooden staircase, plush furniture and, of course, fresh flowers – a staple in any true Riga establishment.
Upstairs, each of its 15 rooms are individually styled but stay committed to a calming choreography of whites, greys and natural woods. A quaint rooftop with a view of the Dome Cathedral beckons summer visitors, while the traditional Finnish sauna is perfect – well, any day of the year. Enjoy French cuisine at LeDome or wander a few blocks away to discover many more MICHELIN-recommended restaurants.
Special Feature: An intimate spa with a bookable private sauna area and a couples’ treatment room.
The characterful lounge of the Dome Hotel. © Dome Hotel & Spa
One of the colourful dishes from hotel restaurant Le Dome, whose terrace offers wonderful views. © Beatrise Anda Ozolina/Le Dome
What It’s All About: A creative, contemporary One-Key hotel; the perfect hangout for artsy social butterflies.
The dignified-looking Grand Poet boasts an enviable location just across from Bastejkalna Park and its romantic canal. From here it’s also an easy walk to the Old Town sights, Elizabeth Street’s shopping and a great mix of Bib Gourmand and MICHELIN-Starred restaurants.
The hotel’s unexpectedly fantastical interiors are laden with jewelled tones and contemporary art – thanks to an ongoing collaboration with the Art Academy of Latvia – and of its 168 tastefully designed rooms, 20 suites reveal views of the park and Riga’s soaring Freedom Monument.
The hotel offers everything you could need or want from a home base – starting in the morning with an impressive breakfast spread, sparkling wine included. There’s also ample opportunity to relax courtesy of a sprawling spa comprising salt rooms, saunas, hot tubs and an indoor pool. But should you happen to fancy a bit of exercise, a high-end fitness centre also awaits.
A cocktail is also a must, either in the glam ground-floor bar or the breezy garden courtyard, weather permitting. After that, take a pleasant stroll through the park to the 3 Chefs restaurant, where you’ll find yourself overlooking the Powder Tower and Swedish Gate.
Special Feature: Revolving exhibits feature emerging local artists.
The chic bar at the Grand Poet Hotel. © Grand Poet Hotel and SPA by Semarah
3 Chefs restaurant is just a short stroll through the park from the Grand Poet Hotel & Spa. © Otto Strazds/3 Chefs
This article was written by the MICHELIN Guide, working in partnership with Latvia Travel.
Hero Image: The exterior of the A22 Hotel in Riga, Latvia, the recipient of One MICHELIN Key. © A22 Hotel
Written by
Bethany Platanella
Bethany is a MICHELIN Guide contributor and travel writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, practicing yoga, and eating mangos. She’s a published author and a features writer for Mexico News Daily.