For its second outing as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NEWTALENT programme, Studio Constance decided to shake things up. In between the mix of models in jumpers paired with lace knickers, frayed denim and structural pannier skirts, a divisive shoe reared its head – or toe, you could say – on the SS27 catwalk. Havaianas launched a new sandal with toe cleavage (yes, you read that right), featuring a slanted kitten heel in inky black, off-white and apple green.
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Studio Constance SS27
Matt Jelonek//Getty Images
Studio Constance SS27
Studio Constance founder Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg, who honed her skills at the schools of Proenza Schouler, Toteme and Acne Studios, shared some insight into the collection ahead of the show, noting that the summer collection ‘embodies the transformation into the light’ and was reflective of her own ‘personal transformation’. Boasting a toe cap that acts as a divider, chatter about the polarising shoe continued long after the closing look made its way down the runway. Perfectly juxtaposing a refined, demure collection, including doily-like tops and dainty dresses (already garnering likes from one half of Kylie Jenner’s styling duo, Mackenzie Grandquist), it was almost like an act of rebellion during CPHFW.
While the Havaianas may have thrown an interesting footwear curveball during the fashion week, which rang in its 20th edition, it wasn’t without its fair share of trends sure to dominate next summer’s fashion cycle. Welcome drinks to toast the milestone week ushered in guests including Adwoa Aboah and Mona Tougaard (more on that later), while on the street style front, Scandi fashion once again cemented its credentials when it came to mixing pops of colour with laid-back accessories. Think editors and tastemakers stepping out of the Copenhagen 1 Hotel onto the cobbled pavements in crochet hats, jorts, flip flops – naturally – and floaty prairie dresses.
But back to the runway. Kicking off the week of shows, OperaSport staged its SS27 show inside Carl Jacobsen’s Have park, with a notable focus on wispy lace cut-outs, popcorn-textured tops and skirts, and a New Balance trainer with cut-outs. As golden hour cast a luminous glow over guests at the iconic King’s Garden, sheer panels of lace were reinterpreted as headscarves at the Baum & Pferdgarten show.
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Baum & Pferdgarten SS27
More fanciful footwear came by way of the Ecco Joke shoe, customised for the rollicking Paolina Russo show, with laces that glinted in the light. Skateboarders-turned-models weaved and effortlessly glided across the runway on boards, fully decked out in large swirl earrings, baggy kaleidoscopic jeans and florals, paired with beige and black suede iterations of the lace-up loafers.
At Anne Sofie Madsen, model du jour Mona Tougaard turned up to show her support, watching on as gossamer-fine, sheer garments floated down the runway, from beautifully manipulated dresses to asymmetric tops and sheer panels layered over custom Nike merch (collaborations were ubiquitous this season). Designer Galib Gassanoff, recipient of this year’s Zalando Visionary Award and founder of Institution, also followed suit, putting his own stamp on gauzy garments by adorning models in voluminous swathes of fabric and creating tunics with coins affixed to them, inspired by Gassanoff’s Azerbaijani community in Georgia. Students from the Swedish School of Textiles demonstrated an innovative knack for working with diaphanous materials, transforming flimsy textiles into halter tops, semi-transparent scraps into hook-and-eye tops and sporty skirt sets.
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Anne Sofie Masden SS27
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Galib Gassanoff SS27
Dialling things back somewhat, butter yellow made cameo appearances numerous times, proving its chameleonic power. At Skall Studio’s La Piscine show, wicker-basket-toting and bike-wheeling models walked the grassy runway in cornsilk-coloured knits and pale yellow, airy dresses. The aforementioned skatepark muses at Paolina Russo were clad in asymmetrical skirts over blooming leggings, T-shirts imbued with crystallised bras, in addition to their signature thigh-skimming dresses. Rounding things off nicely, Stem and Ganni reunited this season to create bespoke upcycled looks, with the SS27 line-up comprising buttery button-detail tops and pleated dresses.
Copenhagen Fashion Week, it’s been a blast. Until next season.