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<\/a>Photography James Cochrane<\/p>\nThe first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off with a strong start with Anne Sofie Madsen\u2019s final presentation, \u201cThe New Desire\u201d.\u00a0 Part of the NEWTALENT Programme, her SS27 collection explored the \u201cpossibility of imagining beyond what is already familiar\u201d. This, it seems, included imagining ruffled micro-hot pants, waterfall necklines, delightfully layered details (like metallic star print underwear under peach silk chiffon and organza). <\/p>\n
As the brand put it in the show notes, the collection uses \u201cdesire as a starting point for transformation, possibility and new ways of constructing both clothing and identity.\u201d The entire show also smelled amazing \u2013 cult-favourite Escentric Molecules was the official scent partner \u2013 and included a memorable live performance where the (incredibly iconic) Danish recorder virtuoso Michala Petri played increasingly larger instruments.<\/p>\n
No show on the CPHFW calendar quite had the energy of Alectra Rothschild \/ MASCULINA SS27\u2019s \u201cDoll Parts (A transsexual Choreography)\u201d, which took place late on Tuesday evening in the foggy underground Cisternerne museum (which used to be an old water tank). In an age of slow and subtle walks, models for the Danish clothing brand brought some major energy to the runway. There was strutting, there was dancing and (most importantly) there was bugle bead embroidery, lace, denim fishnet and fringe, inflatable latex and corsetry. The collection explored the tension between what affirms and restricts trans women. \u201cThe corset that cinches the waist. The tape that tucks away down there. The inflation that exaggerates our curves,\u201d designer Alectra Rothschild wrote in the show notes. \u201cThe doll parts.\u201d<\/p>\n Rumour has it that Sigurd Bank, the founder and designer behind Mfpen, is a hardcore kid. His more countercultural, anti-establishment approach to styling was felt throughout all elements of the SS27 show, where people packed up multiple flights of stairs to stand in a very hot room as the models walked down a makeshift runway. Despite the heat, the Mfpen models appeared unbothered in the effortless silhouettes (made from deadstock fabric) that the brand has become known for.\u00a0<\/p>\n For Galib Gassanoff, a Georgian designer of Azerbaijani descent, clothing is a way to explore his personal connection to the cultures he belongs to. After being raised on the outskirts of Tbilisi, Gassanoff founded Institution in 2024. His sixth collection, YAD, explored all things \u201cforeign\u201d \u2013 the place where \u201cwe exist and present our memories\u201d \u2013 through sculptural knits, otherworldly silks and glimmering layers. For the show, Gassanoff filled the runway with a selection of carpets from the Caucasus, Anatolia, Northern Iran, and Central Asia, with the models walking barefoot, dressed in handmade jorabs and traditional socks.<\/p>\n Everyone was a skater girl at Paolina Russo\u2019s SS27 show, \u201cLone Star\u201d. Presented at N\u00f8rrebrohallen and open to the public, the show was half-concert (with live performances by Grace Ives and local band Haloplus+) and half skate session. After the models walked the runway in floral prints, denim shorts, oversized knits and pants chains, the ones who were carrying a skateboard hopped on it. Then, everyone started dancing \u2013 the perfect end.<\/p>\n In many ways, Solitude Studios is one big, collaborative scientific experiment. The Copenhagen-based label works with traditional craft disciplines such as wet felting of raw wool and natural dyeing (including using a peat bog near their studio). Their heavily sequined and lace SS27 collection, \u201cTime Will Tell\u201d, felt like an evolution for a brand previously defined by their natural-looking aesthetic. The pieces explored the accumulation of time, looking to the limestone quarries of southern Zealand, Denmark, to draw a parallel between geological formation, collective memory and the construction of garments. <\/p>\nPhotography James Cochrane<\/p>\nPhotography James Cochrane<\/p>\nPhotography James Cochrane<\/p>\nPhotography James Cochrane<\/p>\nPhotography courtesy of Solitude Studios<\/p>\n