This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).<\/p>\n
Tallinn is fast gaining a reputation for its innovative cooking. A new generation of well-travelled chefs is adding international flavours to Estonian cuisine, which traditionally blends Russian, German and Nordic influences. The country\u2019s distinct seasons shape a deeply cyclical menu that centres on locally sourced produce. Fermentation is crucial in preserving food during long winters, while the forests, lakes and waterways fanning out from the Estonian city provide prized ingredients like pike from Lake Peipus, venison, foraged berries and mushrooms, along with trout from the Baltic Sea.<\/p>\n
1. Kurze at The Kurze<\/p>\n
Housed in three shipping containers by the railyards, The Kurze<\/a> feels like a rustic cabin, with mismatched furniture and homemade lemonade served in enamel cups. The kurze themselves \u2014 ridge-sealed dumplings from the Russian republic of Dagestan \u2014 are the stars of the menu. Founder Nuriyan Navruzova, a former journalist who fled her home there during the Second Chechen War, began selling them in 2018. Demand exploded and now her cosy restaurant offers five varieties \u2014 lamb, beef, potato, pumpkin and cheese, all coloured with vegetable dyes for a photogenic touch and served with a tomato dip.<\/p>\n 2. Chanterelle hummus at Barbarea<\/p>\n Chef Kenneth Karjane leads the kitchen in Barbarea<\/a>, a repurposed boot factory in the up-and-coming Kopli district. Hummus is always on the menu, but made with seasonal ingredients rather than chickpeas. In warmer months, that means chanterelles from the boundless Estonian forests, blended silky smooth with tahini and spices, topped with roasted mushrooms, dill and black pepper oil. Served with sourdough pitta from the onsite bakery, \u201cit tastes like Estonian summer,\u201d according to Karjane.<\/p>\n 3. Reuben sandwich at Sai!<\/p>\n Sai!<\/a>, Tallinn\u2019s go-to spot for sandwiches, is located in a cellar overlooked by a portrait of former president Lennart Meri. Owner Daanius Aas, winner of the Michelin Young Chef Award in 2023, takes inspiration from the late-night cravings he gets after work. His take on the classic reuben respects the original but features local produce: tender Estonian brisket pastrami, sauerkraut from a local farm and marble rye bread made in a Tallinn bakery. It\u2019s best enjoyed with a side of fried pickles, and is a budget-friendly favourite with students and homesick Americans.<\/p>\n 4. Fish soup at Lore Bistroo<\/p>\n In summer, Estonians typically crave two things: sea views and a bowl of fish soup. At Lore Bistroo<\/a> \u2014 in the Noblessner district, where submarines were built in tsarist times \u2014 both things are in abundance. It’s a surprising rarity in Tallinn, a maritime city with few waterfront dining spots. Chef Janno Leppik\u2019s fish soup is a classic island-style dish, made with fresh trout from the Baltic waters around Saaremaa island, along with cod and garden vegetables, generously sprinkled with the national obsession: dill. It\u2019s light yet comforting, bringing loyal locals from all over town.<\/p>\n 5. Cauliflower at Rado<\/p>\n Rado<\/a> has a refreshingly straightforward chalkboard menu, listing dishes in single words \u2014 picanha (beef), tuna, cauliflower \u2014 but the flavours are far from simple. Slovakian chef Radoslav Mitro honours his mother\u2019s cooking with the cauliflower offering: a boiled piece of the brasscia, generously coated in parmesan sauce with thyme, then crowned with grated parmesan. It\u2019s so beloved the patrons won\u2019t let Mitro take it off the menu, no matter how many times the rest of the chalkboard changes.<\/p>\n 6. Kouign-amann at Sumi<\/p>\n Estonians have always had a soft spot for pastries, and now French bakeries are popping up all over town. The latest darling for the sweet-toothed is Sumi<\/a> in North Tallinn, where American pastry chef Hannah Holman creates a tempting array of hand-crafted treats. The kouign-amann is a crowd-pleaser, the idea drawn from vintage Breton cookbooks from her grandmother\u2019s generation \u2014 a golden pastry made from leftover baguette dough, laminated with butter and sugar in the last two folds. The resulting rich flavours belie the simplicity of the ingredients and it\u2019s a crisp, yet melt-in-your-mouth delight. You might want to learn the Estonian version of \u2018one more, please\u2019 in advance: \u00fcks veel, palun.<\/p>\n Published in Issue 28 (summer 2025) of\u00a0Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).<\/p>\n