{"id":419598,"date":"2025-09-26T19:05:11","date_gmt":"2025-09-26T19:05:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/419598\/"},"modified":"2025-09-26T19:05:11","modified_gmt":"2025-09-26T19:05:11","slug":"dressages-patauds-zero-emotion-tarifs-delirants-alain-passard-le-naufrage-vegan-dun-chef-3-etoiles-mythique","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/419598\/","title":{"rendered":"Dressages patauds, z\u00e9ro \u00e9motion, tarifs d\u00e9lirants\u2026 Alain Passard, le naufrage v\u00e9gan d\u2019un chef 3 \u00e9toiles mythique"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>CRITIQUE GASTRONOMIQUE<\/strong> &#8211; Le chef triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019Arp\u00e8ge depuis 1996, qui a mis les l\u00e9gumes en vedette, pousse le bouchon encore plus loin en renon\u00e7ant \u00e0 (presque) tout produit animal. Quelle mouche l\u2019a donc piqu\u00e9\u00a0?<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Avec l\u2019arriv\u00e9e insolite d\u2019un rince-doigts, au premier tiers du menu d\u00e9gustation \u00e0 420\u00a0euros hors boisson, la question jusqu\u2019alors lancinante s\u2019est pos\u00e9e avec une cruelle acuit\u00e9\u00a0:\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.lefigaro.fr\/gastronomie\/l-arpege-d-alain-passard-passe-au-vegan-20250711\" data-fig-type=\"Article\" data-gtm-custom-categorie=\"navigation\" data-gtm-custom-action=\"crossclick\" data-gtm-custom-label=\"Contextuel\" data-gtm-event=\"customEventSPE\" data-fig-domain=\"LEFIGARO\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alain Passard<\/a>\u00a0est-il le g\u00e9nie culinaire ultime de l\u2019\u00e8re contemporaine (et l\u2019auteur de ces lignes un cr\u00e9tin herm\u00e9tique \u00e0 son avant-gardisme) ou un grand chef sur le d\u00e9clin qui, faute d\u2019id\u00e9es dignes de sa renomm\u00e9e, se paye all\u00e8grement la t\u00eate de ses clients\u00a0? Car la coupelle argent\u00e9e renfermant un fluide clair dans lequel flottaient de mornes rondelles de l\u00e9gumes constituait en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 l\u2019une des douze s\u00e9quences du repas, en l\u2019esp\u00e8ce un consomm\u00e9 de tomate sur lequel nous passerons rapidement car il ne pr\u00e9sente nul int\u00e9r\u00eat particulier \u00e0 part qu\u2019il est bien chaud.<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Alain Passard, triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 depuis 1996, avait quasiment banni de sa carte la chair animale sans se faire d\u00e9classer par Michelin, acqu\u00e9rant de ce fait une aura m\u00e9rit\u00e9e de visionnaire.\u00a0Le voil\u00e0 qui excommunie tout d\u00e9riv\u00e9 d\u2019\u00eatres vivants de ses\u2026<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-premium-paywall__infos\">\n        Cet article est r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux abonn\u00e9s.        Il vous reste 84% \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir.\n    <\/p>\n<p>                <img  data- alt=\"Le Figaro\" class=\"fig-img--complete fig-img\"\/><\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-premium-paywall__title\">Vous avez envie de lire la suite ?<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-premium-paywall__subtitle\">D\u00e9bloquez tous les articles imm\u00e9diatement.<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-premium-paywall__connect\">\n                D\u00e9j\u00e0 abonn\u00e9\u00a0?                <a class=\"fig-premium-paywall__connect-link\" href=\"https:\/\/connect.lefigaro.fr\/login?client=horizon_web&amp;type=main&amp;redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.lefigaro.fr%2Fgastronomie%2Fdressages-patauds-zero-emotion-tarifs-delirants-alain-passard-le-naufrage-vegan-d-un-chef-3-etoiles-mythique-20250926\" data-js-gtm=\"{&quot;customCategorie&quot;: &quot;conversion&quot;, &quot;customAction&quot;: &quot;before_Landing_Connexion_paywall_auto&quot;, &quot;customLabel&quot;: &quot;bGVmaWdhcm8uZnJfXzFmMDkyMGQyLWQzMzItNmQ5MC1hMTIwLWM1NTRiY2M4ZGViZF9fQXJ0aWNsZQ==_Dressages patauds, z\u00e9ro \u00e9motion, tarifs d\u00e9lirants\u2026 Alain Passard, le naufrage v\u00e9gan d\u2019un chef 3 \u00e9toiles mythique_246&quot;, &quot;customIDSPE&quot;: &quot;bGVmaWdhcm8uZnJfXzFmMDkyMGQyLWQzMzItNmQ5MC1hMTIwLWM1NTRiY2M4ZGViZF9fQXJ0aWNsZQ==&quot;, &quot;event&quot;: &quot;customEventSPE&quot;}\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\n                    Connectez-vous<br \/>\n                <\/a>\n            <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"CRITIQUE GASTRONOMIQUE &#8211; Le chef triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019Arp\u00e8ge depuis 1996, qui a mis les l\u00e9gumes en vedette,&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":419599,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1888],"tags":[11,54876,1777,674,1011,27,493,12,626,25,1340],"class_list":{"0":"post-419598","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-paris","8":"tag-actualites","9":"tag-alain-passard","10":"tag-eu","11":"tag-europe","12":"tag-fr","13":"tag-france","14":"tag-guide-michelin","15":"tag-news","16":"tag-paris","17":"tag-republique-francaise","18":"tag-restaurant"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@fr\/115272163292740978","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/419598","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=419598"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/419598\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/419599"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=419598"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=419598"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=419598"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}