{"id":697848,"date":"2026-01-29T18:01:16","date_gmt":"2026-01-29T18:01:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/697848\/"},"modified":"2026-01-29T18:01:16","modified_gmt":"2026-01-29T18:01:16","slug":"que-vaut-cassaros-le-nouveau-restaurant-italien-des-costes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/fr\/697848\/","title":{"rendered":"Que vaut Cassaro\u2019s, le nouveau restaurant italien des Costes ?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n CRITIQUE GASTRONOMIQUE –<\/strong> En lieu et place de son Germain de Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s, le groupe Beaumarly a install\u00e9 cette brasserie bourgeoise \u00e0 l\u2019assiette transalpine.<\/p>\n

S\u2019il n\u2019\u00e9tait un certain principe d\u2019actualit\u00e9 qui impose d\u2019en passer par la\u00a0nouveaut\u00e9, tr\u00e8s peu probable qu\u2019on se soit pr\u00e9cipit\u00e9 \u00e0 ce\u00a0portillon germanopratin<\/a>\u00a0tant, depuis deux petits mois, dans le quartier, les faiseurs de jolie table brillent surtout par un formidable panurgisme transalpin. \u00ab\u200aEncore des nouilles\u00a0\u00bb, \u00e9crivait Desproges, toujours des\u00a0p\u00e2tes<\/a>\u00a0lui r\u00e9pond l\u2019\u00e9cho contemporain.<\/p>\n

C\u2019\u00e9tait, d\u00e9but d\u00e9cembre,\u00a0le Gloria du groupe Big Mamma<\/a>. C\u2019\u00e9tait, trois semaines plus tard, l\u2019arriv\u00e9e tonitruante de l\u2019institution milano-new-yorkaise\u00a0Sant Ambroeus<\/a>. C\u2019est, aujourd\u2019hui, du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de chez Costes, ce Cassaro\u2019s en lieu et place de ce qui fut le Germain, un temps couru par les ann\u00e9es 2010. Les trois en un mouchoir de poche, les trois pleins de leur d\u00e9cor. Leur client\u00e8le pareillement clon\u00e9e, leurs assiettes tout comme. En 68, Saint-Germain pr\u00f4nait l\u2019imagination au pouvoir. \u00c0\u00a0table, cinquante ans plus loin, c\u2019est encore rat\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Moquette et boiseries habillent la salle du restaurant Cassaro\u2019s.
\n Jean Picon<\/p>\n

Voir, revoir<\/p>\n

Le petit dernier s\u2019appelle donc Cassaro\u2019s. On l\u2019aurait baptis\u00e9 Columbo\u2026<\/p>\n

\n Cet article est r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux abonn\u00e9s. Il vous reste 70% \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir.\n <\/p>\n

\"Le<\/p>\n

Vente Flash<\/p>\n

6,49\u20ac par mois pendant 12 mois<\/p>\n

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