Paris Fashion Week Men’s wrapped its Spring/Summer 2027 season on a high note, even as temperatures in the French capital went even higher — with Celine delivering one of the week’s most talked-about collections, and Michael Rider’s first solo outing as the house’s menswear creative director.
Rider, who joined Celine in 2025 after a run at Ralph Lauren and an earlier decade-long stint working alongside Phoebe Philo, used the platform to step out from under two formidable legacies: Philo’s minimalism and Hedi Slimane’s slim-cut rock ‘n’ roll Parisian look. He staked out something distinctly his own instead. The collection blended collegiate dressing, bohemian influences, rock attitude, minimalism, gothic touches and even nods to classical ballet, resulting in a wardrobe that resisted easy categorization.
Construction did the talking. Shirts were shown with pockets set unexpectedly high on the chest; cuffs extended past convention, and sleeveless tops were shaped with rear lacing. Trousers (flared, straight-cut or softly draped) were all cropped just a touch shorter than expected. Balloon trousers, capri-inspired silhouettes and colorful belts rounded out a lineup industry watchers are already calling one of the season’s most wearable.
Footwear may have stolen the show. Celine unveiled its first-ever sneaker collaboration in the house’s history, reviving a retro Reebok silhouette in soft leather with custom Celine branding. The style hits stores in September.
Backstage, Rider kept his explanation simple. “We make the characters we want to be,” he told journalists, describing a “sense of freedom” and noting that within Celine, “there are multitudes, and that is exciting to me.”
For a house balancing two iconic legacies and a tough commercial climate, Rider’s debut suggests Celine’s next chapter will be defined less by a single silhouette and more by range, a wardrobe built, as he put it, for traveling light and making do with just a few exceptional pieces.