Published on September 5, 2026
By Jon Roth
Jon Roth’s Most Recent Stories
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli/Louis Vuitton/Kiton
Pay close attention to the rising currents of the male wardrobe, and it’s hard not to clock a perceptible shift in the fall collections. Designers are making the claim that the humble sweater, long relegated to serving as a convenient layer beneath tailoring and outerwear, can also be the main attraction. Miles removed from the polite anonymity of the plain navy crewneck, this new breed of knit doesn’t underpin a look—it makes it.
Tellingly, not one of these standout garments is plastered with logos, cheeky text, or some representational figure (festive or otherwise). Instead, they draw from the vast lexicon of traditional knit patterns and then twist and tweak the references to varying degrees until the proposition feels entirely fresh. At Louis Vuitton, this takes the form of a deconstructed Nordic pattern that seems to dissolve down the torso. Canali offers a bold windowpane check that reveals an almost marled depth, thanks to a special two-ply knitting technique. And Brunello Cucinelli melds Fair Isle and Scandinavian devices to create a motif entirely unique to the house.
“Knitwear has always been a runway staple, especially for fall,” says Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director at Nordstrom. “But with a renewed focus on Ivy style and elevated, elegant silhouettes, it’s become an essential way to toe the line between dressier looks and more casual ones.” He adds that a little creative styling can be key to getting the most out of these knits: “In this paradigm where guys want to look professional but not too dressed up, smart knitwear easily pinch-hits for a shirt and tie.”
Steeped in history, now made new by some of the brightest lights in menswear, each of the examples here has something to say, and it’s substantial enough to carry an outfit—no jacket required.
Kiton
Image Credit: Kiton
A far cry from its prep-school cousins, Kiton’s take on the traditional cable knit blows up the proportions with more loosely entwined cords, making a statement with negative space—and a gutsy chartreuse color. Price upon request
Canali
Image Credit: Canali
It doesn’t get more luxe than Canali’s wool and alpaca turtleneck, which combines a bold, sartorially inspired windowpane check and a double-face knitting technique that invites a closer look. $1,550
Zegna
Image Credit: Filippo Fior
Inspired by the idea of an intergenerational wardrobe full of heirloom pieces, Zegna’s cardigan has an exaggerated collar that holds its own against multiple layers of herringbone bands and stripes. $15,000
Ralph Lauren
Image Credit: Armando Grillo
An exercise in restraint and timelessness, this crewneck riffs on a vintage sweater pulled from the Ralph Lauren archive. The alternating geometric bands are pure Fair Isle, and the quietly elegant grayscale tones make it feel just right for today. Price upon request
Louis Vuitton
Image Credit: Louis Vuitton
Pharrell’s autumn outing features several eye-catching knits, including this volcanic take on a Nordic yoke sweater, which deviates from more-traditional styles with an irregular, almost pixilated gradient pattern. $4,150
Dries Van Noten
Image Credit: Dries Van Noten
Another evolution of a Nordic yoke design, this Dries turtleneck keeps it graphic with a large-scale two-tone chevron pattern that highlights the motif in a slouchy, loose fit. $1,950
Armani
Image Credit: Photo by Stefano Rellandini/AFP via Getty Images
Showcasing the most striking graphic of the bunch, this gray mélange alpaca pullover’s intersecting Vs evoke a supersize Alpine pattern and, not incidentally, lend a nice V shape to the torso, too. $2,395
Brunello Cucinelli
Image Credit: Brunello Cucinelli
This cashmere turtleneck is not quite Fair Isle: A closer look reveals both Nordic and Scottish references woven together. The result is a one-of-a-kind pattern, infused with Cucinelli’s signature mix of understatement and richness. $4,500