{"id":13558,"date":"2026-05-11T11:39:16","date_gmt":"2026-05-11T11:39:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/13558\/"},"modified":"2026-05-11T11:39:16","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T11:39:16","slug":"judgment-of-paris-at-50-how-it-changed-american-wine-forever","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/13558\/","title":{"rendered":"Judgment of Paris at 50: How It Changed American Wine Forever"},"content":{"rendered":"

\t\t\"AGrgich Hills Estate. Nicola Parisi<\/p>\n

Down a dramatic palm tree-lined driveway dotted with immaculate flower beds, paved red bricks lead to a hacienda lobby where La Quinta Resort<\/a> opens up like a portal to 1926. Just past the main entrance of the hotel\u2019s restaurant, Morgan\u2019s in the Desert<\/a>, a small private room is labeled \u201cGrgich\u201d in the resort\u2019s signature Spanish tiles. Unwitting visitors walk past the venue without thinking twice, but those familiar with Croatian-American winemaker Miljenko \u201cMike\u201d Grgich may pause for a photo or an appreciative glance. Grgich\u2019s profound winemaking and insistence on honoring California terroir was influential enough to bring Napa\u2019s culture not just to the Coachella Valley, but across the world.\u00a0<\/p>\n

As the winemaker behind Chateau Montelena<\/a>\u2019s 1973 Chardonnay, the highest-ranked vintage in the fateful Judgment of Paris blind tasting in 1976, Grgich was a driving force in establishing Napa as a world-class wine region. Soon after the competition, he opened his own winery, Grgich Hills Estate<\/a>, and saved up to purchase a parcel of land in Rutherford, back when it was just a few thousand dollars. He worked as the winemaker there until 2018, when, at the age of 95, he finally retired and handed the reins over to his nephew, Ivo Jeramaz<\/a>. Grgich passed away five years later at the ripe old age of 100, and missed out on the fanfare surrounding the 50th anniversary of the milestone that defined his career.<\/p>\n

\"A\"AThe \u201cGrgich\u201d room at La Quinta. Grgich Hills Estate<\/p>\n

But half a century later, there\u2019s a reason the Judgment of Paris is still a cornerstone of American wine lore. Napa wasn\u2019t always synonymous with fine wine, and this watershed moment established California\u2014and the New World in general\u2014as a credible alternative to European producers. A David-and-Goliath story, the event has everything from shocking upsets and scrappy upstarts to New World versus Old World and humble farmers beating out prestigious producers. In France, the event isn\u2019t remembered as fondly as in the U.S., but it didn\u2019t inflict lasting damage; French wine is still globally beloved and arguably the most significant player worldwide.<\/p>\n

A quick rundown for anyone who needs a refresher: Back in 1976, British importer Steven Spurrier proposed a blind tasting of the premier California chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon against the best Bordeaux reds and Burgundian whites. The tasting panel for the Paris wine competition was composed solely of French judges, who, without realizing it, overwhelmingly chose American wines as the winners, self-assured that they\u2019d selected the best of France. (They even reportedly criticized the French wines they tasted, assuming they were California vintages.)<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"British wine merchant Steven Spurrier with two of the French judges at the Judgment of Paris, Patricia Gastaud-Gallagher and Odette Kahn. <\/p>\n

Thanks to the presence of an American journalist, George Taber<\/a>, the results of the Judgment of Paris, as it came to be called, were captured and transmitted back to the States via a piece in <\/a>Time magazine. \u201cThe U.S. winners are little known to wine lovers, since they are in short supply even in California and rather expensive ($6 plus),\u201d goes Taber\u2019s commentary. The story quickly caught fire, boosting the reputation of the American wineries that won, and signaling to the rest of the New World that American wine was just as good, if not better, than the legacy European houses. Or at least, it had a chance to be.<\/p>\n

To mark the 50th anniversary of the historic event, Grgich Estate partnered with La Quinta on a special anniversary dinner honoring its legacy. Grgich himself loved this desert hotel, and spent a significant amount of time there toward the end of his life, so it was a fitting place to throw a party honoring his legacy. At the dinner, Jeramaz talked guests through the pairings, one of which was an outstanding 2020 Old Vine Zinfandel<\/a>. After I expressed amazement at the quality of the wine\u2014a grape I usually avoid\u2014Jeramaz shared a private memory: this wine was a particular favorite of his uncle, and it was the final wine he drank before he died.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"The history-making bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay. Houston Chronicle via Getty Imag<\/p>\n

Jeramaz, who worked alongside Mike Grgich<\/a> for three decades, now serves as Grgich\u2019s winemaker and VP of vineyards and production. In his estimation, the Judgment of Paris ruling was so impactful that it might be the only reason Grgich\u2019s winery exists. \u201cMike most likely would\u2019ve never had his own winery without the Judgment of Paris,\u201d he says. \u201cHe was a very cautious man, and the event gave him courage to see that he was an incredible winemaker, and that there was a demand for the kind of wine he made. It gave him courage to open a winery. Everyone was fighting for him to be their winemaker, but he wanted to strike out on his own.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

The tasting took place in May 1976, and just over a year later, on July 4, 1977, Mike and his partner, Austin Hills<\/a>, broke ground. Jeramaz came to America from Croatia a few years after that, starting at the bottom as a cellar hand and slowly working his way up to the role of head winemaker he holds today. But Jeramaz only began to understand the full effect of the Judgment later, seeing that it had an impact not only on Napa wines, but on the rest of the New World, too.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cI started realizing how significant it was, not just for Napa, California, but for all the New World regions\u2014Chile, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand,\u201d he says. \u201cNo, you don\u2019t have to be in Burgundy to plant chardonnay. You can grow beautiful chardonnay in many, many regions, not just in Burgundy.\u201d A cornerstone of Grgich\u2019s winemaking style was the complete and total embrace of regenerative farming practices<\/a>, and Jeramaz spent decades learning his methods, which focus, above all else, on regenerative farming. It\u2019s these methods, he hypothesizes, that make a zinfandel grape from their vineyards taste different than any other.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cHe said luck was a part of it, of course,\u201d Jeramaz remembers. \u201cMike was very fortunate that his wine was selected; he didn\u2019t even know that his wine was there. It was luck that his wine was selected, but it wasn\u2019t luck that his wine was good. That\u2019s what he told me. It was 40 years of experience, diligence, passion and dedication that created quality.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"A\"AIvo Jeramaz, the nephew of Croatian-American winemaker Miljenko \u201cMike\u201d Grgich, serves as Grgich Estate\u2019s winemaker and VP of vineyards and production. Nicola Parisi<\/p>\n

Five decades on, the Judgment continues to resonate for other American contenders, and not just in Napa. Stag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars<\/a>, which took first place in the red category for its 1973 S.L.V. Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, was instrumental in cementing cabernet\u2019s dominance in Napa. Even today, their estate wine commands a high price because of the value of the vineyards where these grapes are produced. While the land isn\u2019t priceless, it\u2019s still among some of the most sought-after in the world. The Stags Leap District<\/a>, a distinct AVA created to highlight this particular terroir, was established in 1989, largely due to the attention that followed the French tasting.\u00a0<\/p>\n

To commemorate the event that has all but defined their brand, Stag\u2019s Leap<\/a> hosted a dinner marking the anniversary at this year\u2019s Pebble Beach Food & Wine<\/a> festival. \u201cThe Judgment of Paris told the grape growers working in Napa Valley that they were doing something great, that it was working,\u201d one of Stag\u2019s Leap winemakers, Luis Contreras<\/a>, told guests at the event. \u201cFrench wines are regarded as the best in the world\u2014and I love French wines\u2014but this broke the glass ceiling all over the world.\u201d<\/p>\n

Joined by Chalone<\/a>, an American producer that took third place in the white category, both wineries offered a selection of their current and library wine vintages for attendees to taste. Standout vintages like the 2009 and 2023 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon<\/a>, and the 2024 Chalone Estate Chardonnay, Judgment of Paris 50th Anniversary<\/a>, a commemorative release, showcased the terroir they put on the map. In conversation with Contreras the next day, when he graciously brought an empty bottle of the legendary 1973 S.L.V. cabernet for me to touch in real life (not the original bottle used in the tasting, as that\u2019s safely ensconced in The Smithsonian<\/a>, but one of the same vintage), he expanded on how Stag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars became synonymous with Napa cabernet.<\/p>\n

\"A\"AAn empty bottle of Stag\u2019s Leap\u2019s Judgment of Paris-winning 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars<\/p>\n

\u201cEvery wine is important, but our three estate wines, the Fay, S.L.V. and Cask\u2014which are all cabernet sauvignon with a bit of cabernet franc\u2014are essential,\u201d Contreras says. \u201cFay is the first cabernet sauvignon vineyard that was planted in the Stag\u2019s Leap District, by Nathan Fay<\/a> back in the early 1960s. Back then, anything below Rutherford was thought to be too cold, but Fay took a chance planting cabernet sauvignon, so that site is very historical.\u201d<\/p>\n

As the story goes, Stag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars founder Warren Winiarski<\/a> visited Nathan Fay in 1969 to discuss wine-growing practices. Fay offered him a glass of homemade wine and Winiarski reportedly said, \u201cI hope that wine tastes as good as it smells.\u201d It must have, as that one glass convinced him this area was the perfect place to grow wine that would reflect the classic beauty and complexity of the terroir. The next year, in 1970, a 40-acre parcel next to Fay vineyards became available. Winiarski snapped it up and dubbed it S.L.V; 1973 was the first vintage from that land, and it was the bottle that beat out every French red in 1976.<\/p>\n

\"A\"AStag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars<\/p>\n

\u201cThis was a historical moment that can\u2019t be lost, it needs to be affirmed over and over,\u201d Contreras says. \u201cJust for our own history and the commitment that we have to continue making the best wine we can. It also helps contextualize how Napa Valley came to be what it is today, and how our culture is linked with wine. Our terroir is amazing to make wine from, and we celebrate this tasting to highlight the very special place we have in Napa Valley.\u201d<\/p>\n

Born in Mexico, Contreras moved to Napa when he was 13, and has worked at Stag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars for practically his entire life. After high school, he took a gig as a seasonal bottler for a few years before realizing he wanted to work in the cellar, where he spent almost a decade as a cellar hand. He worked his way up to cellar supervisor, then cellar master, assistant winemaker, and eventually to his current role as a full-fledged winemaker. Contreras never left to work for any other brand or to moonlight at any other vineyard\u2014he says there\u2019s nowhere he\u2019d rather be than Stag\u2019s Leap.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt feels great to work at a place with this kind of history, but it\u2019s a great commitment as well,\u201d he says. \u201cEvery little thing needs to be very precise. Wine lovers are expecting a certain quality from us. My commitment to present great wine makes me think in different ways. I\u2019ve worked with lots of different winemakers, but my biggest mentor is Marcus Notaro<\/a>, our current head winemaker. We started working together in 2013, when he grabbed my hand and walked me through the process. I can\u2019t think of anywhere better to work.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"A\"AChalone Vineyards. Chalone Vineyards<\/p>\n

Napa wasn\u2019t the only region impacted by the decision handed down from French palates. Three of the California wines presented in the tasting came from outside the Napa Valley, but only one placed in the top three: a 1974 chardonnay from Monterey County producer Chalone. Like Stag\u2019s Leap, this winery was brand-new at the time, and this chardonnay was their second-ever vintage. And like both Stag\u2019s Leap and the quickly-formed Grgich estate, the land where these vineyards are planted is like nowhere else in the world.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat we accomplished 50 years ago has really helped further the entire central coast as a prominent and serious wine region,\u201d explains Chalone winemaker Mari Wells Coyle<\/a>. \u201cThere was a lot of skepticism about what California truly could be.\u201d Wells Coyle is the VP of winemaking at Foley Family Wine & Spirits<\/a>, which bought Chalone in 2016, and has been shepherding winemaking at the site since 2023. \u201cThe Judgment of Paris didn\u2019t just put Chalone on the map; it put Monterey on the map,\u201d she says. \u201cAt that time, we were still an emerging wine region, and it was a really good opportunity for us to understand that we have these capabilities and soil types and we can compete with the old world region.\u201d<\/p>\n

Easily the most iconic winery in Monterey, all of the brand\u2019s vineyards are located within their own Chalone AVA, which was designated in 1982 following the Judgment. The vineyards rest up against the Pinnacles National Park at about 1,800 feet elevation, and are planted in unique limestone and decomposed granite soils. The soils and the elevation, coupled with the site aspect, make it well-suited for growing grapes, and it\u2019s situated on a west-facing slope with lots of afternoon sun that\u2019s ideal for ripening. This estate is particularly rare because there\u2019s not a lot of limestone in California, especially across an entire site.<\/p>\n

\"A\"AMonterey County\u2019s Chalone Vineyards is renowned for its rare limestone and decomposed granite soils, which produce intensely-flavored wines. Chalone Vineyards<\/p>\n

For many winemakers, developing a key style, or drawing out a certain characteristic in the wine, is a major part of the job. For Coyle, though, the challenge is to step back as much as possible and let the land tell its own story. \u201cI feel a lot of gratitude because working with this site is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,\u201d she says. \u201cFor me, it\u2019s about really listening and understanding the vineyard. Our vineyard manager, Richard Bore<\/a>, has been there for over 30 years, so he\u2019s seen the whole legacy unfold and has been there shepherding the vines. It\u2019s about trying to have the least amount of impact and let the wines be what they are\u2014to just continue the legacy.\u201d<\/p>\n

While the central coast matured as a wine region at a slower pace than Napa, these days it has certainly attained global recognition, particularly in regions like Paso Robles and the Santa Ynez Valley<\/a>. Winemaking in California as a whole surely owes a debt of gratitude to the Judgment of Paris for unprecedented growth over the last 50 years, but also for sparking a deeper understanding of how valuable the terroir here actually could be.\u00a0<\/p>\n

And even in a time of economic downturn, when the industry is in a phase of contracting, for those who are tasked with carrying on the legacies of these vineyards, the focus on caring for the land and the fruit remains supreme. \u201cEvery day, I think about my late uncle Mike and how wise he was,\u201d Jeramaz says. \u201cLike buying this land back when it was $9,000 to $21,000, versus $1 million. We can cut production in half, and not just survive, but thrive. I\u2019m most excited about regenerative farming, which I see great benefits from. There\u2019s endless opportunity to improve with nature.\u201d<\/p>\n

In times of instability, there\u2019s an all too real fear that the best of an industry will be ripped away. Looking backward, though, it\u2019s easy to see that even when Napa was just a scrappy, would-be player on the world stage, certain principles have always risen to the top. \u201cThere\u2019s no tricks with winemaking,\u201d Jeramaz says. \u201cThere\u2019s no stopping, it\u2019s not like, \u2018OK, now I know everything and I\u2019ll make a perfect wine.\u2019 Absolutely not. Winemaking is important, but it\u2019s secondary to grape growing.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

An optimistic hypothesis: For those in the industry who are focused on farming their land sustainably, growing beautiful fruit, and letting the elegant terroir shine through in the winemaking, the current downturn will have little impact. A lot can change in 50 years, but wineries like these have already proven they can stand the test of time.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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