{"id":24226,"date":"2026-05-26T06:29:09","date_gmt":"2026-05-26T06:29:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/24226\/"},"modified":"2026-05-26T06:29:09","modified_gmt":"2026-05-26T06:29:09","slug":"why-french-us-first-ladies-dont-speak-the-same-fashion-language","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/24226\/","title":{"rendered":"Why French, US First Ladies Don&#8217;t Speak the Same Fashion Language"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tSince the 18th century messages have been flying across the Atlantic between France and the U.S., with U.S. forefathers including Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson and John Adams undertaking diplomatic missions, doing deals with their Gallic counterparts and seeking support for their revolution in North America.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tWomen, meanwhile, were keeping a close eye on the style of their transatlantic sisters, and none more so than Dolley Madison. After she became first lady, the wife of James Madison shrugged off her Quaker wardrobe and took to wearing low-cut Empire dresses, in the style of Jos\u00e9phine Bonaparte, and adding exotic, Continental touches such as turbans adorned with feathers and jewels.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tA Francophile like her husband, Dolley Madison learned all about French style from fashion dolls that were regularly shipped across the Atlantic to showcase the latest fashions.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tIn the 200 years since she was sweeping around the White House hosting her famously lavish parties \u2014 and serving food by French chefs \u2014 America\u2019s first ladies have had an on-off relationship with French fashion. Elizabeth Monroe and Edith Wilson loved it, while many others shrugged, and trod their own style paths.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tIt wasn\u2019t until the 31-year-old Jacqueline Kennedy became first lady that the transatlantic romance blossomed again, although the fashion dynamic hasn\u2019t changed much since Madison\u2019s days. The French still set the style agenda and insist on showcasing their nation\u2019s talents on the world stage, while American first ladies sometimes find themselves walking a line between their love of French fashion, and their duty to promote homegrown talent.<\/p>\n<p>\t\tDressing for the New Age of Television\t<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tKennedy had traveled extensively in Europe in her youth, spoke French and loved the culture \u2014 and the couture. In June 1961, she tapped Hubert de Givenchy to design the wardrobe for her first official trip abroad as first lady, to her beloved France.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tUnderstandably, she was also under pressure to promote American-made fashion, which meant she would often turn to local talents, including Oleg Cassini, Norman Norell and the boutique Chez Ninon, to create looks inspired \u2014 sometimes stitch-by-stitch \u2014 by the French fashion houses. Her signature pillbox hats, though, were all-American and came courtesy of Halston.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tBalancing French and American fashion wasn\u2019t Kennedy\u2019s only challenge as first lady. Always hyper-conscious about her public image, she also relied on vibrant color, and sharp lines to project a modern and distinctive look.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tPamela Golbin, the author, fashion historian and former chief curator of fashion and textile at the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mus%C3%A9e_des_Arts_D%C3%A9coratifs,_Paris\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Mus\u00e9e des Arts D\u00e9coratifs<\/a>\u00a0in Paris, said Kennedy became first lady at a moment \u201cwhen television became front and center in the lives of millions of people, so relaying a visual message that was both striking, clear and strong was extremely important. She was acutely sensitive to the fashion message, and was able to convey the modernism that her husband brought to the political arena through her clothes.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tValerie Steele, the fashion historian, director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, said Kennedy, like Queen Elizabeth II, knew how to make herself instantly recognizable in a crowd by using bold color, and defined silhouettes.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"c-lazy-image__img lrv-u-background-color-grey-lightest lrv-u-width-100p lrv-u-display-block lrv-u-height-auto\" src=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\" data-lazy-src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/pinksuit.jpg\" alt=\"Jackie Kennedy wearing a pink suit on Nov. 22, 1963.\" data-lazy- data-lazy- height=\"556\" width=\"1024\" decoding=\"async\"\/><\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\tJackie Kennedy\u2019s Chanel-inspired, American-made pink suit Nov. 22, 1963, the day President John F. Kennedy was assassinated. It is stored at The National Archives in a climate-controlled vault.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGetty Images<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cMrs. Kennedy was really great at it. When she went to India, she wore bright Indian colors. She understood that if you wore a striking color and had a simple look, people would grasp right away who you were. It\u2019s not just a question of fashion, but also a fashion at a distance, how it plays out in pictures, the message, the semiotics of it have to be fairly simple,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tGolbin added that Kennedy was successful in weaving together French and American style to create a distinctive look, but she wasn\u2019t the only one doing it.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tClaude Pompidou, who was first lady of France from 1969 until 1974, had a similar \u201cenergy,\u201d according to Golbin. \u201cFrance fully entered the fashion diplomacy platform with her. Her wardrobe projected the modern avant-garde [spirit] of her husband Georges Pompidou, and of post-war France,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tAt the time, Pompidou wore haute couture by younger designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin and Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges, \u201cand really crystallized this notion of using fashion as a visual language to portray the key elements of the platform that her husband was trying to get across. All of the [French] first ladies after that continued to do so,\u201d Golbin added.<\/p>\n<p>\t\tFlying the French Flag\t<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tAfter Kennedy, fashion-loving first ladies Nancy Reagan and <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/tag\/melania-trump\/\" id=\"auto-tag_melania-trump\" data-tag=\"melania-trump\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Melania Trump<\/a> carried on the love affair with French fashion, albeit to a lesser extent than Kennedy. Reagan wore Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino in addition to American designers James Galanos and Adolfo, longtime favorites of California\u2019s Ladies Who Lunch.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tTrump often wears Christian Dior for official occasions. Last month she chose a pale delphinium pink silk strapless gown from Jonathan Anderson\u2019s haute couture collection for a state dinner at the White House with King Charles III and Queen Camilla. She\u2019s also been snapped wearing <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/tag\/louis-vuitton-2\/\" id=\"auto-tag_louis-vuitton-2\" data-tag=\"louis-vuitton-2\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Louis Vuitton<\/a> and Givenchy, while her stylist, the designer Herv\u00e9 Pierre, is French American.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tBy contrast, French first ladies almost exclusively fly the national flag.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cFashion and luxury are very important sectors in France, symbolically and economically. France remains the land of haute couture and fashion shows that attract people from around the world several times a year. First ladies want to present and promote the fashion economy,\u201d said Elizabeth Pineau, a political journalist at Reuters and coauthor of \u201cLe Vestiaire des Politiques,\u201d which looks at what male and female politicians wear, and why.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"c-lazy-image__img lrv-u-background-color-grey-lightest lrv-u-width-100p lrv-u-display-block lrv-u-height-auto\" src=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\" data-lazy-src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/michelle21.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-lazy- data-lazy- height=\"526\" width=\"724\" decoding=\"async\"\/><\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/tag\/michelle-obama\/\" id=\"auto-tag_michelle-obama\" data-tag=\"michelle-obama\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Michelle Obama<\/a> in an Azzedine Ala\u00efa jacket, Etro print top, Moschino white top and Gunex black pant and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy in a Dior coat in Strasbourg, France.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tPascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tEvery first lady has had her favorite French designers. Current French First Lady <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/tag\/brigitte-macron\/\" id=\"auto-tag_brigitte-macron\" data-tag=\"brigitte-macron\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Brigitte Macron<\/a> frequently wears <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/fashion-news\/fashion-features\/louis-vuitton-monogram-luggage-marc-jacobs-new-york-1238971117\/\" id=\"related_article_link_louis-vuitton-2\" data-tag=\"louis-vuitton-2\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Louis Vuitton<\/a> and is particularly close to Nicolas Ghesqui\u00e8re, but also wears designs by Balmain, and blazers and coats by Alexandre Vauthier. Her predecessor Carla Bruni\u2019s closets were bursting with Dior, but also with pieces by Chanel and Christian Louboutin shoes.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tAs soon as she stepped into the political spotlight, Bernadette Chirac started wearing Chanel and Dior, which was designed by John Galliano at the time. She was also the woman who gave Princess Diana a handbag from the house that was later named the Lady Dior because the royal wore it so much, and in many so different colors.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tWhen a French first lady goes off-piste, and opts for a non-French designer, it\u2019s a cause c\u00e9l\u00e8bre.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tIn an interview, Pineau recalled the scandal that Nicolas Sarkozy\u2019s now ex-wife, C\u00e9cilia Attias, caused in May 2007 when she appeared at her husband\u2019s inauguration wearing a champagne silk dress by the very Milanese label Prada.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cShe caused quite a stir at the \u00c9lys\u00e9e Palace. Everyone noticed that she was in Prada. It was very unusual for a French first lady,\u201d she said. The Sarkozys divorced later that year, so flying the French flag may not have mattered much to the former first lady.<\/p>\n<p>\t\tSpeaking a Different Language\t<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tPineau believes that when American first ladies host their international counterparts or travel on official business, \u201cthey\u2019re more diplomatic than the French. When <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/pop-culture\/celebrity-news\/lara-trump-fashion-china-1238955690\/\" id=\"related_article_link_melania-trump\" data-tag=\"melania-trump\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Melania Trump<\/a> comes to France she wears Dior. The French, instead, think about their own country\u2019s luxury and fashion.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tSteele of MFIT said former U.S. First Lady <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/pop-culture\/celebrity-news\/michelle-obama-serena-williams-celine-1238954214\/\" id=\"related_article_link_michelle-obama\" data-tag=\"michelle-obama\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Michelle Obama<\/a> took her sartorial messaging a step further. As first lady she made an extra effort to showcase and promote under-the-radar American talent at home, and abroad.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cA lot of first ladies, like Mrs. [Hillary] Clinton, wore nice American fashion brands like Oscar de la Renta for events, but Mrs. Obama was more interesting in as much as she chose smaller brands, often by people of color or immigrants, and highlighted talented and lesser-known designers. What she did was very, very original and important, and helped to highlight those designers more than almost anything else could have,\u201d Steele said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tShe added that President Barack Obama\u2019s inauguration in January 2009 was a day to remember, with the first lady dressed in a yellow-gold, custom-made dress and matching coat by Isabel Toledo.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"c-lazy-image__img lrv-u-background-color-grey-lightest lrv-u-width-100p lrv-u-display-block lrv-u-height-auto\" src=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\" data-lazy-src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/GettyImages-739671.jpg\" alt=\"President and First Lady of the United States, Ronald and Nancy Reagan attend the President's 2nd Term Inauguration in Washington, D.C., January 20, 1985.\" data-lazy- data-lazy- height=\"1024\" width=\"692\" decoding=\"async\"\/><\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\tRonald and Nancy Reagan attend the U.S. president\u2019s second-term inauguration in Washington, D.C., on Jan. 20, 1985.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGetty Images<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cThat was so exciting. Isabel is such a genius, but was little known. I remember we did a big exhibition about Isabel\u2019s work at the museum at FIT, and we had that dress front and center. Boy, did we have huge numbers of people coming to see it. There was so much interest in the outfit,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tMichelle Obama would continue that effort later that day, wearing a gown by the young designer Jason Wu to the Inauguration Ball.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tReagan, Steele said, did her duty to her country in a different way. Being from California she celebrated the designers there, and wore Adolfo \u2014 and red \u2014 much of the time. \u201cRed, a color associated for more than 100 years with communism, became associated with Republicans, in large part because Mrs. Reagan wore so much red,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tFor all the sartorial signaling that goes on in the U.S., France and elsewhere, Steele believes diplomatic messages don\u2019t always land the way they\u2019re meant to.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cClothes are one of the easiest ways that we communicate, nonverbally, but we never know how much of the message gets through. When Mrs. Obama wore Isabel, I was thrilled, but most people probably thought, \u2018Who\u2019s she wearing?\u2019 or \u2018What a strange color that suit is.\u2019 When people talk to me about fashion being a language, I always say I think of it more as being like music. It might evoke a mood, but it usually doesn\u2019t say something directly,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Since the 18th century messages have been flying across the Atlantic between France and the U.S., with U.S.&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":24227,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12704],"tags":[1720,2773,4955,4209,17832],"class_list":["post-24226","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-louis-vuitton","tag-brigitte-macron","tag-louis-vuitton","tag-lvmh","tag-melania-trump","tag-michelle-obama"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24226","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=24226"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24226\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24227"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=24226"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=24226"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=24226"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}