La Samaritaine<\/a> partly because it belongs to the group, but also because the place itself is absolutely spectacular,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n\n\t\u201cWe\u2019re fortunate to have this amazing weather \u2014 it brings a different energy,\u201d she said of the venue, which was drenched in sunlight earlier in the day. \u201cMaybe in future we\u2019ll continue to move it around.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tHere are five brands competing for the prize that are getting creative in the quest for new materials and craftsmanship.<\/p>\n
\t\tThevxlley by Daniel del Valle\t<\/p>\n
\n\tA former florist, Daniel del Valle brings an obsession with botanics to everything he touches. Among the one-of-kind pieces he showed under his label, Thevxlley, was a ceramic bust overgrown with orchids, which he leaned down to spritz with water every once in a while.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cIt\u2019s like a living sculpture, in a way. There are almost 10 different species of orchids growing in here, and it\u2019s been growing for over a year now, so it\u2019s been crazy to see the process of it and how it keeps changing over time,\u201d he said.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tA porcelain vase bust, an hourglass display case filled with miniature vases, and a mosaic T-shirt depicting a still life were some of the other pieces of wearable art the Spanish designer created over the space of three years, and unveiled last month as part of his debut runway show at London Fashion Week. <\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Daniel](\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\")
<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tDaniel del Valle and a model in one of Thevxlley\u2019s designs.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDominique Maitre\/WWD<\/p>\n
\n\tDel Valle works out of a tiny home studio, and dreams of expanding his practice. For example, he spent a week with a glass artist in Barcelona to make a skirt that resembles bathroom tiling.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cEach piece is a different technique, because I like the experimentation of working with different materials,\u201d he explained. \u201cI haven\u2019t studied art or design, and my way of learning is getting into the field until I get it.\u201d<\/p>\n
\t\tIamisigo by Bubu Ogisi\t<\/p>\n
\n\tBorn in Nigeria, raised in Ghana and living in Kenya, Bubu Ogisi sees material as a global language.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cThe brand started purely based on material research, but through the concept of borderless ideologies \u2014 so how different materials exist across borders, and how people interact and utilize this based on cultural hybridization or ancestral memory,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n
\n\tAmong her creations were handblown glass handbags and rings made from reclaimed TV screens, bottles and window panes; a coat covered in bagasse, the fibrous byproduct of tequila production; and a bag woven from the plastic bindings of recycled clothing bales.<\/p>\n
\n\tOgisi said it typically takes her several days to piece together a metallic dress like the one worn by Naomi Campbell for Victoria\u2019s Secret The Tour campaign.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tBubu Ogisi and a model in one of Iamisigo\u2019s designs.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDominique Maitre\/WWD<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cWhen things take a lot of time for me, I see it as a meditational process too,\u201d she said. \u201cIt also allows me to relax, because I have a lot of anxiety, so a lot of things I have to do with hand detailing sort of calm me.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe brand produces hats in South Africa and shoes in Nigeria, while weaving is spread across Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya, Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Togo and Benin. \u201cIt\u2019s just about, how do we create this unison through matter, and how do we bring all these things together to create one piece of magic,\u201d Ogisi said.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\t\tPonte by Harry Pontefract\t<\/p>\n
\n\tA lifelong hoarder of found objects, Harry Pontefract\u2019s work is all about subverting expectations \u2014 whether a dress made from plastic grapes, a beanbag T-shirt or a metallic dress fashioned out of copper foil tape used by plumbers.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cA lot of the brand is taking things and recomposing them in another context,\u201d said Bryan Conway, cofounder and design director of the Ponte label.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cThe material comes first. It\u2019s absolutely everything,\u201d he added. \u201cEither it\u2019s so special that it\u2019s incredible and rare and scarce, or it\u2019s the thing that is everywhere and no one cares about, and then we make something with that.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tHe and Pontefract met while studying fashion design at the University of Westminster in London, and both have worked with Jonathan Anderson: Pontefract at Loewe, and Conway at JW Anderson.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tThe Metropolitan Museum of Art\u2019s Costume Institute bought eight pieces from the brand\u2019s last collection. Ponte has kept distribution deliberately small, with only six stockists worldwide.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cWe have our stores because we want it still to be real and have clothes in those stores, but we want to build up more selling directly,\u201d Conway said. \u201cThe singular works, we will sell to collectors.\u201d<\/p>\n
\t\tNong Rak by Teerapat Phuangfueang and Cherry W. Rain-Phuangfueang\t<\/p>\n
\n\tBangkok-based husband-and-wife team Teerapat Phuangfueang and Cherry W. Rain-Phuangfueang started out as vintage resellers before launching their own label in 2021.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tNong Rak \u2014 which means \u201clittle love\u201d in Thai \u2014 specializes in colorful knitted mohair pieces made with vintage yarns. \u201cWe have tried to use modern mohair, and the quality is never the same,\u201d Cherry said.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tTeerapat Phuangfueang and a model in one of Nong Rak\u2019s designs.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDominique Maitre\/WWD<\/p>\n
\n\tAside from a collaboration with Marc Jacobs\u2019 streetwear line Heaven, their business has been direct-to-consumer, informing many of their creative choices. The duo just opened their first boutique in Bangkok, and are expanding into cut-and-sew pieces made with Thai silk.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cOpening the shop has completely changed our world after multiple years of just being online,\u201d Cherry said.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cClothing is so emotional and it holds history and it holds feeling, so we love to talk to everybody and see how they\u2019re feeling and get the feedback,\u201d she said. \u201cI think people have been really connecting with our stuff, because at its heart, we want to have fun, and we want other people to have fun.\u201d<\/p>\n
\t\tKinyan Lam\t<\/p>\n
\n\tAn expert in natural dyes, Kinyan Lam launched his Hong Kong-based label in 2023 with the ambition of preserving centuries-old textile techniques.<\/p>\n
\n\tWith the help of textile artisan Hanna Li, he\u2019s building a network of artisans in the Guizhou province of southern China and cataloguing techniques, with the aim of sharing them back with local communities.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cWe\u2019re trying to preserve them because some of the crafts are fading away, because the new generation are not willing to learn them. That\u2019s why we think we should bring it back to the market,\u201d he explained.<\/p>\n
\n\tItems from his latest collection feature appliqu\u00e9 embroidery, chain stitching and indigo-dyed Dong cloth that give each piece a unique, handmade feel.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cWe exist to prove that true luxury is not a price tag, but a commitment to honesty, time, and the irreplaceable human touch,\u201d the brand said in its mission statement.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"PARIS \u2013 Plastic grapes, old televisions and Victorian pipes were just some of the materials used by emerging…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":33501,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12700],"tags":[12789,13408,23925,4955,14407,12701],"class_list":["post-33500","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-lvmh","tag-anya-taylor-joy","tag-delphine-arnault","tag-la-samaritaine","tag-lvmh","tag-lvmh-mou00ebt-hennessy-louis-vuitton","tag-moet-hennessy-louis-vuitton"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33500","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=33500"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33500\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/33501"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=33500"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=33500"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=33500"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}