spring<\/a> 2027 collection.<\/p>\n\n\tHis Sunday presentation marks his label\u2019s debut on the official Paris calendar.<\/p>\n
\n\tBased between the U.S. and Paris, the founder headed to Kinshasa to immerse himself in old photo albums and conversations with elders in a bid to reconnect with the city\u2019s sartorial pride of the 1980s, when Congo\u2019s capital was one of Africa\u2019s most cosmopolitan hubs.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe spring 2027 collection, titled \u201cKin La Belle\u201d after the city\u2019s nickname, is conceived as a love letter to the scene and its suave dressers: soft tailoring, travel-ready silhouettes and a palette inspired by coffee beans and fresh greens, worked into jacquards and graphic motifs.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Lad](\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\")
<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tLAD\/ fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy Photo<\/p>\n
\n\tLAD\/ is a fresh chapter in Mande\u2019s wider fashion career. In 2017, he opened the Blank Canvas multibrand store in Texas, a niche address devoted to Japanese labels such as Comme des Gar\u00e7ons and the other labels under its umbrella, reflecting Mande\u2019s obsession with Japanese craftsmanship.<\/p>\n
\n\tDuring that period he formed a deep relationship with Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh of sartorially inclined and multihyphenated project Art Comes First.<\/p>\n
\n\tBut a series of setbacks, including the passing of his father, had Mande stepping away from fashion and retail.<\/p>\n
\n\tHe returned in 2024 with LAD\/, a label built on soft tailoring and today\u2019s must-haves, cut from Japanese deadstock textiles, Italian fabrics and the occasional unusual choice, like a striking fish leather.<\/p>\n
\n\tPrices start around the mid-hundreds for jersey pieces and go up to the 1,800- to 2,000-euro range for tailoring, with the most technical outerwear pieces topping the 3,000-euro mark.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe name is a play on his own, with a nod to the informal term in British English for youths. But the slash that follows it isn\u2019t just graphic adornment \u2014 it\u2019s an overture onto a broader approach that could, in the short term, include womenswear. Mande said there are plans for the first LAD\/ flagship in early 2027, likely in Paris.<\/p>\n
\t\tPaz\t<\/p>\n
\n\tThe invitation from newly minted Los Angeles-based label Paz, which will make its debut on Saturday with a 4:30 p.m. show at the Coll\u00e8ge des Bernardins, said there would be \u201cno post-show access\u201d and \u201cno interview.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tIt promised a brand \u201cbuilt in silence over two years,\u201d with \u201cno social media, no archive.\u201d Its aim is to offer \u201cgarments made to be lived in, fought in, passed down,\u201d and cut from \u201cmaterials chosen to outlast the people who wear them.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201c[Still] the intention isn\u2019t mystery for the sake of mystery,\u201d the designer, rumored to be an alum of Vetements under Guram Gvasalia as well as KidSuper, told WWD in an email exchange.<\/p>\n
\n\tToday\u2019s expectations that founders become public personalities risk overshadowing the work itself, they continued. \u201cI wanted the work to have the opportunity to stand on its own before people formed an opinion about the person behind it.\u201d<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tExotic skins may come into play at Paz.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy Photo<\/p>\n
\n\tIn the meantime, expect an inaugural collection produced entirely in Milan that sits \u201csomewhere between tailoring, utility and protective forms,\u201d aimed at a customer who keeps pieces \u201cfor years rather than seasons.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tComing from outside traditional fashion training, the founder was shaped instead by observing \u201cwhat [people] wore repeatedly, what they protected, what they eventually stopped caring about [and questioning] why do some objects become more meaningful with age while others lose their value almost immediately?\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tFrom this question sprang Paz, named for the Spanish word for peace. \u201cI\u2019ve never thought of peace as something permanent or easily attained,\u201d the founder noted. \u201cThe search for refinement, meaning and permanence is never really finished.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe venue, a 13th-century abbey that has \u201csurvived centuries of transformation while remaining unmistakably itself,\u201d mirrors the brand\u2019s interest in pieces that \u201cevolve through wear and experience rather than remaining fixed.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tFor the launch, distribution will be kept to a tightly controlled mix of made-to-order and limited production, to foster a direct relationship with its clientele. Prices are expected to start around $1,000, with shirts at $1,200, trousers at $6,000, leather jackets at $8,000 and the most expensive piece at $120,000, \u201cdesigned to remain relevant and desirable long after purchase.\u201d<\/p>\n
\t\tSong for the Mute\t<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cIt feels like free falling,\u201d said Melvin Tanaya, who founded Australian fashion brand Song for the Mute with Lyna Ty in 2010. \u201cWe tell each other to just try to enjoy it \u2014 whatever happens, just try to enjoy it.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThere\u2019s no denying it\u2019s been an exhilarating ride for the duo, who met at the age of 10 in primary school when they ended up seated next to each other by virtue of their surnames.<\/p>\n
\n\tBoth were new kids in town: Ty, who is of Cambodian Chinese descent, was born and raised in Paris while Chinese Indonesian Tanaya had grown up in Surabaya, the second-largest city in Indonesia. From then on they formed a sibling-like bond that was further nourished by their creative tracks that took her to fashion design and him to study visual communications.<\/p>\n
\n\tSong for the Mute began to take form when the two friends decided to come together \u201cand just wanted to do something as a hobby, like graphic T-shirts,\u201d Ty said.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tA teaser of the upcoming Song for the Mute collection<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy Photo<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cFunnily enough, the [initial] idea was a graphic T-shirt, but we didn\u2019t do any prints for the first six years,\u201d Tanaya added.<\/p>\n
\n\tAlthough both would continue doing double-shift with their then-day jobs for a while, their nascent fashion label was already making waves, such as scooping up Australia\u2019s National Designer of the Year gong in 2011.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhat caught the eye was the mix of classicism, here in fabrics, elsewhere in silhouettes that becomes skewed by the duo\u2019s impish eye for finishings, textures and a quasi-punk approach.<\/p>\n
\n\tLong-term relationships with Japanese mills and a tight creative team that now includes Ty\u2019s partner in life Karim Gaaloul as design director underpin a tactile wardrobe that now counts some 90 global stockists including Selfridges, Harrods, H.Lorenzo, Nordstrom, SKP and Boon the Shop. Europe and the U.S. are currently the brand\u2019s fastest-growing markets.<\/p>\n
\n\tT-shirts run from about 195 to 345 Australian dollars, shirts from 395 to 645 Australian dollars, pants from 595 to 1,195 Australian dollars, and jackets from roughly 895 up to around 2,000 Australian dollars for leather pieces, a key novelty of the season.<\/p>\n
\n\tCollaborations have also helped broaden the Song for the Mute universe, particularly with footwear. First came a hookup with Adidas Originals, yielding an inaugural sneaker that is still a firm favorite, then a long-growing affinity with Birkenstock that was cemented by a collaboration released earlier this year.<\/p>\n
\t\tRescha\t<\/p>\n
\n\tRescha is less about choosing between worlds than about learning to live \u2014 and dress \u2014 in the fertile space in between.<\/p>\n
\n\tFounded in 2022 by Paris-born designer Charlotte Chowdhury, of French and Indian descent, the brand grew out of her experience of feeling suspended between two cultures.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cI really evolved in this in-between world,\u201d she told WWD. \u201cIt was very tricky for me to understand that I didn\u2019t have to choose between those two worlds, but I could create my own one, and it\u2019s what I\u2019ve been trying to do with Rescha.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cAt the end of the day I make clothes, but the idea behind this brand is really to have a voice as a mixed woman living in Paris,\u201d she added.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tRescha<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy Photo<\/p>\n
\n\tDeciding that this in\u2011between state could be a place of power and expression rather than strife led her to embrace the notion that fabric was her first language.<\/p>\n
\n\tChildhood memories of her French mother and grandmother, both keen seamstresses, come interlaced with parcels of vividly colored Indian textiles sent by paternal relatives she wouldn\u2019t meet in person until her teens.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cWhen I start my collection, I always try to combine fabrics that you don\u2019t usually see together, colors as well that are not seen together, but that could really reflect something and give a special feeling,\u201d Chowdhury said.<\/p>\n
\n\tThat dialogue between underpins Rescha\u2019s hybrid aesthetic, where unexpected fabric pairings, rich craft techniques and fluid styling proposals blur the lines between East and West \u2014 as well as masculine and feminine.<\/p>\n
\n\tArt and textile research are the starting points for each collection. For spring 2027, the designer continues her ongoing narrative inspired by figures such as fabric historian Krishna Riboud, who also inspired the fall collection.<\/p>\n
\n\tTuesday\u2019s show at Mus\u00e9e Guimet, which Chowdhury described as temple\u2011like for its architectural features and ambience, is meant to feel almost spiritual, a contemplative interlude in the fashion week rush.<\/p>\n
\n\tAlthough womenswear currently leads the offer, men already account for roughly 40 percent of Chowdhury\u2019s clientele. The designer said her male clientele was drawn in particular to embroidered skirts and ornate pieces that are still rare in the menswear landscape.<\/p>\n
\n\tPrices start at 140 euros for a silk embroidered scarf, and go up to 800 euros for a hand-embroidered skirt and 1,700 euros for a leather jacket.<\/p>\n
\n\tRetailers include Ssense, South Korea\u2019s A Momento, Colom in Spain, Jihan and Fallon in Paris as well as U.S.-based Forecast.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"PARIS \u2014\u00a0Whether the story starts in Sydney when two 10-year-olds ended up next to each other alphabetically; in…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":39682,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[30,6504,16024,4940],"class_list":["post-39681","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-paris","tag-paris","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-paris-fashion-week-mens","tag-spring"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39681","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=39681"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39681\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/39682"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=39681"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=39681"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=39681"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}