\n\tDior\u2019s decision to move its show slot to 9 a.m. from 2:30 p.m. because of the record-breaking French heat wave meant a short night for Paris showgoers, especially those who stayed up past midnight to see Madonna perform at the Saint Laurent after party.<\/p>\n
\n\tGuests arriving at the Mus\u00e9e Nissim de Camondo were offered cold towels and fresh strawberries as temperatures inside the venue, currently under renovation, quickly reached boiling point. Those seated in the garden were handed old-fashioned parasols to ward off the sun\u2019s piercing rays.<\/p>\n
\n\tThough seemingly incongruous, the breakfast call time worked perfectly with Jonathan Anderson\u2019s theme for spring 2027, which offered a looser take on the \u201cdisheveled aristocrat\u201d aesthetic he set as a baseline with his debut Dior<\/a> men\u2019s show a year ago.<\/p>\n \n\tModels emerging from the mansion in sequined pants and dressing robe coats looked like they had reveled all night \u2014 the soundtrack by Fred Again still pulsing with dance tracks. \u00a0<\/p>\n \n\t\u201cEspecially in London at the moment, there\u2019s a whole new movement of kids going out to raves. Rave culture is starting back up again. You see it in the suburbs, you see it more outside of the city. I see it on the Seine at 7 o\u2019clock in the morning. Something is changing, and kids are dressing up. They\u2019re mixing things,\u201d Anderson told reporters after the show.<\/p>\n \n\tHence the high-low theme that ran through this lineup: artfully frayed denim shawl-collared jackets were paired with lavishly embroidered shirts and black dress pants, while a crisp pleated tuxedo shirt was tossed over stone-washed pink shorts and topped with a textured wool frock coat.<\/p>\n \n\tIt was one of several more wearable versions of the replica historical garments Anderson sent out on the runway 12 months ago. He has also let go of the tricky shrunken Bar jackets and voluminous constructions of that debut collection<\/a>.<\/p>\n \n\tWhile critically applauded by the fashion pack, his more conceptual ideas have yet to filter through to the Dior shop floor, where more traditional styles prevail. Perhaps that\u2019s why he ramped up the classically commercial fare, like his cotton drill pajama suits with velvety collars.<\/p>\n \n\tAnderson described the job as a work in progress. With four men\u2019s collections a year, he\u2019s incrementally rewriting a brand vocabulary rooted in founder Christian Dior\u2019s love of the 18th century \u2014 an obsession the couturier shared with Mo\u00efse de Camondo, who during his lifetime amassed a major collection of decorative arts from that period.<\/p>\n \n\t\u201cFor me, it\u2019s just [you] keep refining and enjoying it, having fun with it, and trying to work out new codes, take codes away that you put in,\u201d Anderson said.<\/p>\n \n\tThe designer has a lot of boxes to tick.<\/p>\n \n\tDior menswear is rooted in tailoring, which this season revolved around the new Bobby suit, a baggy style inspired by a vintage Marc Bohan jacket that Anderson purchased for himself. It came in sheer silk chiffon, printed with pinstripes or a houndstooth motif, in addition to more classic wool fabrics for day and evening.<\/p>\n