{"id":45166,"date":"2026-07-02T18:20:18","date_gmt":"2026-07-02T18:20:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/45166\/"},"modified":"2026-07-02T18:20:18","modified_gmt":"2026-07-02T18:20:18","slug":"a-temperature-check-at-mens-fashion-week-in-paris","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/france\/45166\/","title":{"rendered":"A temperature check at Men\u2019s Fashion Week in Paris"},"content":{"rendered":"

From Saint Laurent\u2019s fog-filled spectacle to Louis Vuitton\u2019s Californian beach and Rick Owens fountains and inflatables, the Spring\/Summer 2027 season unfolded against a critical heatwave, resulting in a more relaxed vision of modern menswear.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Comme des Gar\u00e7ons.<\/p>\n

The week started with Saint Laurent, where, amidst a cloud of steam by artist Fujiko Nakaya whose immersive fog installations are currently the subject of a retrospective at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello once again presented a solid collection. The commitment of the front row here deserves to be noted: a handful of attendees wore last season\u2019s infamous latex PVC socks in that weather, and Charli XCX shared a cigarette with Madonna before the show. Worth the heatstroke.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The show also included what might have been the most talked-about footwear of the season. Designed by Corrado De Biase, the house\u2019s head of footwear, the transparent PVC heels prompted Vaccarello to question backstage whether if women were made to wear polyvinyl heels, men should follow suit. As for the actual clothes, a tamed palette was then turned up by silk scarves that became chokers and briefs that exposed the bare legs. When it wasn\u2019t paired with pastel-hued windbreakers, the tailoring was paired with sheer tops. Suits were closed by bejewelled buttons, and power shoulders Vaccarello has made his signature remained, while a gold lam\u00e9 suit and trench coat provided the golden finale to another successful Saint Laurent outing.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Saint Laurent.<\/p>\n

If the mist at Saint Laurent wasn\u2019t enough, Louis Vuitton constructed what might have been the season\u2019s most talked-about set, designed by Pharrell Williams himself, bringing the beach and the waves to Paris, almost predicting the city\u2019s relentless heatwave. The surf-inspired collection captured a relaxed spirit through effortless Californian tailoring, pairing structured blazers with graphic tees, sun-faded hoodies, distressed denim, and worn-in leather, and plenty of LV-branded objects, from surfboards to bikes.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Louis Vuitton.<\/p>\n

The prints at Rei Kawakubo\u2019s latest offering for CdG Homme Plus read \u201cThe United Nations of Comme des Gar\u00e7ons\u201d. With a collection titled If the War Were To End, a hopeful Kawakubo presented a noticeably softer side of her menswear. Relaxed blazers and coats were layered over ruffled shorts, a sharp contrast to her previous menswear collection, where garments leaned much more towards uniforms and military dress. The joyful finale, with models skipping and jumping rather than marching, confirmed the shift.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Comme des Gar\u00e7ons. <\/p>\n

Soundtracked by Fred again.., Jonathan Anderson\u2019s third outing for Dior menswear was an exercise in refining and establishing what he believes the Dior man should be for Anderson; he is a young, aristocratic, private school student that probably stays up all night more often than not. Printed chiffon suits arrived deliberately untailored, while distressed denim featured frayed threads woven together with chains, something that seemed to vex Hedi Slimane online. Do the Eton boys stay for the after-party?<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Dior.<\/p>\n

Whether it was the white fan gifted at the entrance or the relocation due to the heatwave, Celine felt like a breath of fresh air. Not because everything was new, there were plenty of clothes we\u2019ve seen before, but because they were made to feel new again. Michael Rider\u2019s first menswear collection was a lesson in French style: how to dress like the coolest guy you know. Rider refused to commit to one silhouette, there were tight suits and fluid tailoring, skinny jeans alongside wide leg trousers, cummerbunds with t-shirts. The styling was masterful too \u2014 ties tucked into shirts, beaded necklaces and headpieces, keyrings hanging everywhere, belts layered over coats and shirting and barely there sandals.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Celine.<\/p>\n

Sarah Burton continues to excel at dressing , not just real women, but now real men too. For her latest collection, she collaborated on a presentation with British sculptor Rachel Whiteread, whose installation featured Untitled (Canister Series). If Timoth\u00e9e Chalamet\u2019s butter-yellow leather red carpet look was your thing, you\u2019ll probably enjoy the colour-blocked tailoring Burton built throughout the presentation. The accompanying lookbook, photographed in London by Juergen Teller, featured filmmaker and DJ Don Letts, painter Danny Fox, photographer Sir Don McCullin and other men of different ages, shapes and backgrounds, perhaps much closer to the brand\u2019s actual customers than the endlessly youthful fantasy many luxury houses seemed intent on selling (and selling to) this season.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Givenchy.<\/p>\n

Soshi Otsuki, last year\u2019s LVMH Prize winner, received such recognition after presenting a parade of\u00a0 well-dressed Japanese salarymen. This season, that same cast seemed to have relaxed. The tailoring felt looser, not only because of the premium Japanese fabrics now available to him, but because of the softer cuts of the garments. Balloon trousers with gentle pleats, boxer shorts, and shirts left casually unbuttoned made it seem as though every businessman had finally gone on holiday.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Soshi Otsuki.<\/p>\n

Like Williams, Rick Owens, who\u2019s proved to be environmentally conscious, appeared to predict the heatwave. His set featured monumental water arches beneath which models glided as they crossed the metallic structure spanning the pool at the Palais de Tokyo. Soundtracked by an exclusive techno remix of \u201cGirl in Bed\u201d by Sissy Misfit, Owens also unveiled an Adidas collaboration, including inflatable tracksuits equipped with their own body-cooling system. Fashion\u2019s answer to air conditioning, or to the climate crisis, perhaps.<\/p>\n

\"ACourtesy of Rick Owens.<\/p>\n

The overall consensus, however, was that many of the smaller presentations and showroom appointments stole the spotlight. London\u2019s John Alexander Skelton, for example, presented a lookbook photographed inside an early Georgian house. Less severe than previous outings, the collection felt ditsy, with floral motifs inspired by the work of eighteenth-century English silk designer Anna Maria Garthwaite.<\/p>\n

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