Little did Haderlump\u2019s creative director Johann Ehrhardt know that when he was a waiter at a hotel, he\u2019d one day end up a designer showing a collection in one. We\u2019re at the Hotel Adlon, perhaps Berlin\u2019s most storied hostelry, which lies in the shadow of the Brandenburg Tor, and sitting beneath 12 enormous chandeliers to see Ehrhardt\u2019s spring 2027 Haderlump collection. Entitled Atrium, it began apparently, \u201cin the hotel, as a memory\u2026the stillness of off-season, the hierarchies of service, the strange intimacy of incompatible roles brought together by circumstance\u2026to become the key architecture of the collection.\u201d Backstage, Ehrhardt expanded on his thinking. \u201cWhen we started looking to show in a hotel, the idea was to go somewhere very modern,\u201d he said, \u201cbut then we came to the Adlon, the most historic one in the city, and it made so much sense to be here.\u201d<\/p>\n
Of course, you can see the parallels, between being in service as a designer, and that of a hotel employee: the notion of anticipating what someone wants and needs to feel cared for and comfortable; to create a sense that one\u2019s every wish and hope is being catered to. In terms of the collection, which saw Ehrhardt continue to expand on his late 19th\/early 20th century silhouettes\u2014waisted, corseted, flowing, tailored\u2014and bring them sharply into today with a cool, urban attitude and energy. There were the obvious hotel references\u2014the room key as a decorative motif; metal fastenings that echoed cutlery; apron-like panels over the label\u2019s signature super-wide pants; the graphic white lines on black that looked like an architectural fa\u00e7ade rendering. Yet also the less obvious; of late, Ehrhardt has been pushing into evening looks more and more, so mid-show out came a strapless bias-draped faded denim dress, the idea being it\u2019s like wrapping yourself in a hotel towel, and locked out of her room, a guest has had to walk through the lobby. (We\u2019ve all been there, right?)<\/p>\n
Yet the theme didn\u2019t overpower Ehrhardt\u2019s collection. He continues to fuse quotidian fabrics, materials we can all relate to\u2014denim, leather, cotton for tees and sweats, with every one of them admirably coming from dead-stock, by the way\u2014and use them for his dramatic, floor-sweeping looks, looks that speak to an ever-higher level of craft and accomplishment. Every look, he said, was meant to evoke a story, so aside from the poor unfortunate in her towel in the lobby, there was a crush of characters rushing around his square set, the chandeliers twinkling above, wearing the likes of a terrific patched black leather jacket, tightly belted over distressed jeans; a double-breasted great coat rippling with creases pressed into it; or a corset-laced, severe long dress, like something a governess would wear\u2026 if she was really into techno and liked to take herself off to Berghain of an evening.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Little did Haderlump\u2019s creative director Johann Ehrhardt know that when he was a waiter at a hotel, he\u2019d…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":49573,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[18,40542,8393,40544,40543],"class_list":["post-49572","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-berlin","tag-berlin","tag-berlin-spring-2027","tag-haderlump","tag-runway","tag-runway_review"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/49572","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=49572"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/49572\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/49573"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=49572"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=49572"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/germany\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=49572"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}