With high-end beef offerings being overshadowed lately by cheap and cheerful cuts, it’s important to remember that you get what you pay for, writes our critic

Boulabán salted caramel ice cream. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan.

Boulabán salted caramel ice cream. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan.

Chateaubriand, cote de boeuf, filet mignon, New York strip, porterhouse, ribeye, T-bone, tomahawk – these are all hallowed words but ones that are fast disappearing from restaurant menus this autumn, except of course at dedicated high-end steak houses serving equally high-end cuts where, believe me, you pay accordingly.

Beef prices have increased so much in the past year that, for many restaurateurs, they’re just not a viable offering, much to the chagrin of the dedicated carnivore for whom the great-value-steak hunt is on!