Our critic is impressed by the menu and ‘universally delightful’ staff at this buzzing D2 spot

Doolally restaurant in Dublin 2

Doolally restaurant in Dublin 2

If you’ve read much about the British in India, you may find yourself less than enamoured of the tendency of some modern Indian restaurants to celebrate the country’s colonial past.

Much of the history is not as pretty as the clubby decor of these establishments might suggest. One of the most shameful events was the massacre at Jallianwala Bagh in Amritsar, which took place in April 1919 under the instructions of Sir Michael O’Dwyer, an Irish colonial in the Indian civil service.