Our food critic was impressed by the food and wine at this ‘hideaway’ headed by an Australian chef

Planque restaurant. Photo: Anton Rodriguez

Planque restaurant. Photo: Anton Rodriguez

I’d been curious about Planque for a while, the restaurant fluttering around the fringes of my subconscious. But there are always so many new places to explore in London – and old favourites to revisit – it kept falling off the list.

And Planque seemed a bit of an oddity, not quite sure whether it was a restaurant or a members-only wine club. (Spoiler alert: it is both, but you don’t need to worry about the latter.) I feared it might be a bit annoying.