It is rare that I travel to a region knowing little about the wines. But that was the case on a recent trip to the north of Italy. Alto Piemonte lies in the foothills of the Alps, a short drive from Alba. At one stage, the wines were better-known than either Barolo or Barbaresco. Like many other regions the Alto Piemonte was hit by the phylloxera pest in the late 19th century. In the 1940s and 1950s much of the population fled to the cities and well-paid, regular factory jobs (Torino and Milano are close by). By the end of the 20th century, viticulture had almost died out. Where once there had been 40,000 hectares of vines, fewer than 800 remained. Now a new generation is rediscovering the old vineyards (as are some foreigners) and producing some unique and wonderful wines.
If you find the austere, chewy tannins of nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco a bit overpowering, the wines of Alto Piemonte will come as a pleasant surprise. Here, nebbiolo can be like pinot noir; fragrant, ethereal and elegant, light in colour and tannins, but still with the potential to age. Sometimes the local vespolina, uva rara and croatina varieties are included in a blend. Sub regions include Ghemme, Boca, Lessona, Bramaterra, Gattinara, Coste della Sesia and others. The key to success seems to be finding the delicate balance between ripeness, acidity and tannins. There are also some enjoyable white wines, usually made from the local erbaluce variety.
The region is a delight to visit in autumn, and so too I would imagine in spring. Expect mixed agriculture and lots of forests, all with the Alps in the background.
Cantine Garrone is located in Valle Ossolane, very close to the Swiss border. This is a family-owned winery that works closely with small local growers to save the old vines (often trained on pergolas) and produces some fascinating wines. The local clone of nebbiolo is called prünent.
Noah is the work of former architect Andrea Mosca, who bought a small vineyard in Bramaterra. He now produces a range of excellent red wines from his three hectare estate, which is named after his son.
Proptietà Sperino is the historic estate of the di Marchi family, producers of Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico. Paolo di Marchi bought back the estate, which is now run by his son Luca.
In addition to the wines below, each of the growers produce more expensive wines that are worth the premium. Certainly, working with low-yielding old vines on the steep terraced slopes makes wine production a costly business. Look out too for Le Piane, Nervi Gattinera, and from a neighbouring region, those from Ar Pepe in Valtellina.
Chianti Riserva 2021, Corte alle Mura Chianti Riserva 2021, Corte alle Mura13%, €10.99
Not from Piemonte, this Tuscan wine has smooth dark fruits, a savoury touch and some nice dry tannins on the finish. Try it with grilled red meats.
From Lidl
Coste della Sesia Rosso ‘Rossonoah’ 2024, Noah Coste della Sesia Rosso ‘Rossonoah’ 2024, Noah13%, €22
Subtle floral notes, with fine red cherry and wild strawberry fruits. Fine tannins and a mineral touch. Nicely balanced with a touch of liquorice.
From Lennox Street Grocer, Dublin 8; Sheridan’s, various locations; Wild Beans, Kinvara, Co Galway; Food Store, Claremorris, Co Mayo; MacCurtain, Cork
Munaloss 2024, Vino Rosso, Ossolo Valley, Cantine Garrone Munaloss 2024, Vino Rosso, Ossolo Valley, Cantine Garrone14%, €23
Racy refreshing red fruits with soft easy tannins. A glorious glugger to serve cool with antipasti.
From Quintessential Wines, Drogheda, Co Louth; Ely, Maynooth, Co Kildare; Aitiuil Store, Bearna, Co Galway; O’Leary’s, Cootehill, Co Cavan; The Wine Pair, Dublin 8; Pinto Wines, Dublin 9; Mitchell & Son, Dublin 2 and Sandycove, Co Dublin
Proprietà Sperino, ‘Uvaggio’ Coste della Sesia Rosso 2020 Proprietà Sperino, ‘Uvaggio’ Coste della Sesia Rosso 2020
13%, €44.99
Fragrant rose petals, refined red cherry and raspberry fruits. A vibrant, elegant wine to enjoy with antipasti.
From Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Mitchell & Son; Red Island, Skerries, Co Dublin; BaRossa, Dublin 4; Fíon Eile, Dublin 7; The Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Delgany Wine Cottage, Co Wicklow