{"id":218748,"date":"2025-12-06T15:43:18","date_gmt":"2025-12-06T15:43:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/218748\/"},"modified":"2025-12-06T15:43:18","modified_gmt":"2025-12-06T15:43:18","slug":"meet-the-foodmakers-behind-some-irish-festive-favourites-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/218748\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet the foodmakers behind some Irish festive favourites \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9Thierry Peurois, Le Paysan, Co Wicklow<img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Thierry Peurois, Le Paysan p&#xE2;t&#xE9;. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/TL32AGBTGNF3HE3HNQP4J7XGVI.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Thierry Peurois, Le Paysan p\u00e2t\u00e9. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">My parents were charcutiers in Brittany, so one could say that I have been making p\u00e2t\u00e9s for a long time. I first set up Le Paysan as a delicatessen and restaurant in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/greystones\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/greystones\">Greystones<\/a>, Co Wicklow, in 1996. I was selling chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9s and terrines. I moved to a new premises in Wicklow town in 2019 and started focusing on the production of p\u00e2t\u00e9. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/christmas\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/christmas\">Christmas<\/a> has always been busy. With the retailers I supply, we do in December what we will do in five months otherwise. I am also busy with hamper companies, online sales and markets. I will be at the Christmas on the Plaza in Greystones at the weekends leading up to Christmas. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">My Christmas prep starts very early in the year. By March or April, I\u2019ve already made plans with the hamper companies. From early September onwards, we ramp up production according to our sales forecast; we usually do more than 1,000 p\u00e2t\u00e9s per week from then on. One of our issues is packaging, as the pallets of glass jars have to come on time, and have to be paid upfront, and as a small artisan producer, we have limited space to store them. We are fairly busy until Christmas week with production and the market, and keeping the supermarket shelves full. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">For many people, chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9 is an essential part of the traditional menu at the festive table. Our free-range chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9 is our best seller and makes up about 80 per cent of our sales. Our wholesale customers include retailers such as SuperValu, independent retailers such as Nolan\u2019s of Clontarf, Ardkeen Quality Stores in Waterford and Morton\u2019s of Ranelagh. Overall my business is thriving because of repeat purchases all year long. At Christmas even more so. In Ireland the classic way is to eat chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9 with Melba toast with a side of relish. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I\u2019ve grown to like the traditional Irish Christmas dinner; there\u2019s nothing like turkey and ham when it is well made. This year, though, I probably will go for a beef Wellington for a change. I will enjoy the rest, too, maybe a few walks in the Wicklow Mountains if the weather is good. I take a nice break for New Year\u2019s and visit my mother in Brittany. We\u2019ll have a few glasses of wine, some good terrine, foie gras and a nice roasted capon. <a href=\"https:\/\/lepaysan.ie\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">lepaysan.ie<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Christmas puddingCharlotte Leonard-Kane, Sc\u00e9al Bakery, Co Wicklow<img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Sc&#xE9;al Christmas Pudding\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/QOSLGQ3OU5E5HDFDMTPOJFXGDA.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"1199\"\/>Sc\u00e9al Christmas Pudding <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/food\/2025\/09\/06\/for-the-love-of-bread-the-couple-telling-the-real-sceal-of-artisan-baking\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/food\/2025\/09\/06\/for-the-love-of-bread-the-couple-telling-the-real-sceal-of-artisan-baking\/\">Sc\u00e9al<\/a> is deeply connected to Christmas. The very first market we did was the Dublin Christmas Flea in 2016. We made our puddings in a makeshift kitchen at home. We sold them, jars of mincemeat, brandy butter and the very first version of the Sc\u00e9al mince pie. The funds we raised that weekend went towards setting up our first kitchen at Elmhurst Cottage Farm. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Our Christmas pudding recipe is one that I hold very dear to my heart. It has been passed down through the generations since 1906. We make our own marmalade instead of mixed peel and simply substitute house-made sourdough breadcrumbs in place of classic white breadcrumbs. The recipe was given to me by Mimi, a mother, sister, best friend, and aunt figure in my life. Mimi died suddenly in 2020. I miss her terribly. What brings me great comfort is that her memory and cooking legacy live on in our Christmas pudding, and she is celebrated among hundreds of families each year. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Many customers will serve our pudding as one of their centrepiece desserts on their festive table. It\u2019s a real celebration with a jar of our vanilla sea salt brandy butter on the side. I adore a slice of warm Christmas pudding with cold, cold pouring cream. It\u2019s the contrast of hot and cold that is really nostalgic for me. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Shane Palmer and Charlotte Leonard-Kane of Sce&#xE1;l Bakery. Photograph: Shantanu Starick\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/I7LEU2SBKJBVXMC2JZJH75S4Q4.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"600\"\/>Shane Palmer and Charlotte Leonard-Kane of Sce\u00e1l Bakery. Photograph: Shantanu Starick <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">We had our first Christmas meeting in June. There\u2019s a lot of planning, particularly this year, as we grow our list of stockists for our Christmas puddings. Our cafe\u2019s general manager, Cl\u00edona, has refined the packaging this year, a project that started back in July. All while running the bakery seven days a week. The lead-up to the festival season can be gruelling, but I still love Christmas, always have. I\u2019d happily have the Christmas playlists on in the bakery from early November, but Shane [Palmer, her husband and business partner] has to rein me in.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Christmas has taken on a whole new meaning now that we have a young family. Seeing the season through a child\u2019s eyes makes even the smallest moments feel special again. I\u2019ve been daydreaming about having a creamy Baileys over ice this Christmas with a classic movie on. And I\u2019m particularly excited for a celebratory Christmas Eve pint of Guinness in our local pub.\u201d <a href=\"https:\/\/www.scealbakery.com\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">scealbakery.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Blue cheeseMike Thompson, Young Buck &amp; Mike\u2019s Fancy Cheese, Belfast<img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Mike's Fancy Cheese. Photograph: Arthur Allison\/Pacemaker Press&#10;\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/UABQMHQWUFF6JOR7IH6KL2LTVE.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"532\"\/>Mike&#8217;s Fancy Cheese. Photograph: Arthur Allison\/Pacemaker Press<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I got into cheese accidentally, working in a deli in Belfast. Most of the cheese we sold at the time was from west Cork. I loved learning about Veronica Steele and the Fergusons at Gubbeen. I realised cheese was made by people, not large factories. Then I went to England for a cheese-making course and worked on different farms and for small producers for about three years, but I always wanted to come back to Belfast to try starting something. We made our first batch of Young Buck in October 2013 and sold it on 1st April, 2014. It was terrifying. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Young Buck is the first raw milk blue cheese made in the North. It\u2019s made in the style of Stilton, a cheese traditionally linked with Christmas because it has aged for about three months. The cheese made during summer, when cows graze on grass, was traditionally eaten at Christmas time.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Historically, Stilton was aged much longer, sometimes up to a year. It became drier and was even called the English Parmesan. The ageing process allowed the blue veins to develop naturally through drying, cracking rinds, and time. Since it was an old, long-aged cheese, it was quite expensive, and at Christmas, people wanted the priciest cheese rather than just the best-tasting. But our customers are buying for taste, and Young Buck is very decadent, so people love it at Christmas. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">As a small producer, it\u2019s difficult to scale for Christmas. Usually we make cheese three times a week, but from July to the third week in September, we make it five times a week to get ready for Christmas. So when we start selling our Christmas cheese in December, it\u2019s up to nearly five months old, and then after the new year will be back to three months. With cheesemaking, it\u2019s not just the making side of things; we also have to mature and pierce the cheese, too. I\u2019m very fortunate to have such tolerable cheesemakers. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Mike Thompson from Mike's Fancy Cheeses\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/7WWEJYIXSNCZHJSTOGNTICIVGM.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"786\"\/>Mike Thompson from Mike&#8217;s Fancy Cheeses <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">We have a shop in Belfast, Mike\u2019s Fancy Cheese, which is where we sell most of our Young Buck, and it goes in all our hampers too. We also supply to Sheridan\u2019s and cheese shops around Ireland. We\u2019re big believers in a smaller number of cheeses on your Christmas cheese board with bigger pieces of cheese. Or even just one simple wedge. Our pals Maegden, another cheesemonger, make a massive batch of pickled pears, which we have to ration out to two per customer. People got mad for them; they are perfect with Young Buck, and you can also make a great dirty martini with the pickled pear juice. We also get a load of apple jelly logs, our local version of quince jelly, made for us by chef Karen Bell. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">By Christmas Day I\u2019ve usually worked about 14 12-hour shifts, so I take the opportunity to do very little. I get a dozen oysters, a Broughgammon goat gammon, a pitcher of Bloody Mary and usually one cheese from the shop. I\u2019ll take the dog for a walk and sit in silence watching NBA basketball with the fire lit. <a href=\"https:\/\/mfcheese.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">mfcheese.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Christmas condimentsKathleen Flavin, head chef at Foxford Cafe, Co Mayo<img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Kathleen Flavin, head chef at Foxford\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IRJCVPYP5ZEUXC7OILEIG4O3XU.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"1200\"\/>Kathleen Flavin, head chef at Foxford <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I\u2019ve been working at Foxford Cafe for 15 years. Christmas has always been busy. The first year I would have started with Christmas cakes and a couple of jams, and it has grown from there. We\u2019ve more than 30 products at the moment. Chutneys are our bestsellers at Christmas. People like to get them for cheese boards. Then there are also things like cranberry sauce and ham glaze, and mulled wine spice. Our cranberry sauce is used for all sorts. I\u2019ve heard of it being used on top of a cheesecake. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Mulled Wine Spice Mix from Foxford\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/T3BWRTIJRNA27LSBZZLFNC3BGY.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"1000\"\/>Mulled Wine Spice Mix from Foxford <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Festive Mincemeat from Foxford\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMNKO4WYOZB47OVN7DNFXND6XI.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"708\"\/>Festive Mincemeat from Foxford <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Making the condiments and dressings for retail happened because I made a red onion marmalade that would have gone into our goat\u2019s cheese tart, and people asked to buy that. The same thing happened with dressings. We started making them for retail. The beetroot and orange chutney I first made for sandwiches, and people started asking for that, so that ended up in a jar. The pickled pears would have been made for going on our fig and pear platter. I made them because the pear season was so short, so I started pickling them. I\u2019ve developed a lot of the recipes over the years like that because I had a glut of things. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The mincemeat is all made by early September. We sell thousands of mince pies. They are baked fresh every day. The Christmas cake orders start coming in from early October. We\u2019ve a huge amount of repeat customers. And people who come to Foxford for the day and do their Christmas shopping, we stock a lot of other items. Lots of local produce. People go around and make up their own hampers, and we\u2019ll box them up for them. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I sit down in January and run through what we did at Christmas when it\u2019s fresh in our minds. Last year whiskey marmalade and raspberry jam were the best sellers. We are making stuff all year. The production kitchen runs until about two weeks before Christmas, and then in the run-up to Christmas, I\u2019d always spend a lot of time out on the floor. I meet the people who have been coming in all year, and I chat to people about cooking the turkey. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">At home I cook for as many as 30 people. I\u2019ve a huge family and my house is where everyone congregates. Traditional dinner with a turkey, four kinds of desserts and lots of mince pies. There are always people around, cups of tea being made and glasses of wine being had. Walks in the woods, loads of food. It\u2019s hectic. I sometimes go back to work in the days between, and it can feel like a reprieve. But then, when I get home, there will be dinner waiting for me, and that\u2019s nice. I love a good cheese board, because there\u2019s no cooking. I love sitting down and relaxing with a nice glass of wine. I\u2019m quite happy with that. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.foxford.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">foxford.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Smoked salmonSally Barnes, Woodcock Smokery, Skibbereen, west Cork<img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery. Photograph: Paul Sherwood\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/WOFXJFYJVJAQDGLZOBUHAZ47JM.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery. Photograph: Paul Sherwood <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I\u2019ve been smoking fish here in west Cork for over 45 years. I started it for extra income when I was married to a commercial fisherman and as a way to preserve some of the fish we were catching. I only use wild fish, and for smoked salmon, I work exclusively with diminishing supplies of wild Atlantic Salmo salar, and we compensate the fishers properly for their efforts. Fishing was often an impossible source of income in the winter, so Christmas was such a joy in the early days, as I had forgotten how popular smoked salmon was at that time. Planning begins in early May, when the commercial fishery commences on the river. The time flies during the autumn, so we have to be ready and fully prepared; days become too short for forgetting things. Along with the wild salmon, we try to source alternative species to smoke around that time, but it\u2019s not always successful. If we do source whitefish fillets or albacore tuna, we put those on the website along with salmon.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">At Christmas people celebrate with precious foods, so for many, our smoked salmon is an annual purchase. I\u2019ve had many of the same customers for decades. Most people that I know eat the salmon with brown bread, and plenty of butter slathered on it. I am strict about the use of lemon on our fish \u2013 absolutely none \u2013 but a drizzle of local honey is a wonderful addition or a scratch of fresh-ground black pepper.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">I collapse in a heap on Christmas Eve, exhausted, so I am fit for very little for a couple of weeks afterwards. I have spent three days in PJs, eating simple sandwiches \u2013 salmon, obviously \u2013 and sipping prosecco. I will open a bottle of bubbly in the morning, slice myself some salmon, and find a good movie to relax with. All I really want is rest. And hope that everyone else who is consuming the fish is as happy as I am. I have an aged Christmas pudding, made by my friend Anthony O\u2019Toole, from his Fat Tomato range, which I didn\u2019t get around to using last year, so this year it will be even better, with brandy butter and cream. A good cheese board, mostly Irish cheeses, raw milk when possible, oatcakes and some home-made pickles. And a glass of golden rum to finish. That\u2019s my idea of a blissful Christmas. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.woodcocksmokery.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">woodcocksmokery.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9Thierry Peurois, Le Paysan, Co WicklowThierry Peurois, Le Paysan p\u00e2t\u00e9. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw My parents were&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":218749,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[73],"tags":[79,16838,18,3276,19,17,361,84521],"class_list":{"0":"post-218748","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-business","8":"tag-business","9":"tag-christmas","10":"tag-eire","11":"tag-food-production","12":"tag-ie","13":"tag-ireland","14":"tag-magazine","15":"tag-new-year"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@ie\/115673394127163719","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/218748","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=218748"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/218748\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/218749"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=218748"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=218748"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=218748"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}