{"id":261267,"date":"2026-01-01T07:33:14","date_gmt":"2026-01-01T07:33:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/261267\/"},"modified":"2026-01-01T07:33:14","modified_gmt":"2026-01-01T07:33:14","slug":"les-troisgros-review-a-michelin-starred-feast-that-will-leave-you-ravenous-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/261267\/","title":{"rendered":"Les Troisgros review \u2013 A Michelin-starred feast that will leave you ravenous \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"

Menu-Plaisir: Les Troisgros<\/strong> <\/p>\n

\ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d8<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Director:<\/strong> Frederick Wiseman <\/p>\n

Cert:<\/strong> None<\/p>\n

Genre:<\/strong> Documentary<\/p>\n

Starring:<\/strong> Marie-Pierre Troisgros, C\u00e9sar Troisgros, L\u00e9o Troisgros, Michel Troisgros<\/p>\n

Running Time:<\/strong> 4 hrs mins<\/p>\n

Frederick Wiseman has been a quiet, persistent observer of modern life for nearly six decades, an artist whose presence is so unobtrusive that his films appear to have filmed themselves. <\/p>\n

Yet behind every frame is the formidable intelligence of a former law professor who has camped out at institutions across the United States and beyond for months at a time, then spent many more months \u2013 often more than a year \u2013 shaping hundreds of hours of material into rigorously constructed nonfiction narratives. <\/p>\n

Since Titicut Follies, in 1967, Wiseman has made more than 40 documentaries, each a meticulous immersion in institutional life: a high school, a welfare office, New York Public Library, Paris Op\u00e9ra Ballet, the University of California at Berkeley and the National Gallery in London. <\/p>\n

With the sumptuous Menus-Plaisirs: Les Troisgros, the film-maker finds a subject as meticulous and patient as he is. Les Troisgros is a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Ouches, in the Loire region of France. The Troisgros family have run it for four generations.<\/p>\n

Wiseman\u2019s four-hour film invites the viewer to live at the pace of the grazing horses visible through the restaurant window. There are no talking heads, no narration and no explanatory subtitles beyond a glimpse of the sign at the local train station and the Michelin plaque outside Troisgros. Everything else \u2013 every gesture, rhythm and decision \u2013 must be absorbed from observation. <\/p>\n

The family patriarch, Michel \u2013 gregarious, philosophical and prone to lovely bouts of wittering \u2013 moves between produce markets, the kitchen, farms and diningroom tables with the assurance of a man who has spent a lifetime building an institution. <\/p>\n

His sons, C\u00e9sar and L\u00e9o, increasingly confident in shaping the cuisine, provide the film\u2019s quiet counterpoint: an unspoken generational transition plays out amid caviar-and-strawberry debates and the saut\u00e9ing of kidneys destined to meet passion fruit. <\/p>\n

The kitchens, filmed with quiet reverence by Wiseman and his cinematographer, James Bishop, operate less like the high-pressure battlegrounds depicted in The Bear and Boiling Point than like an orchestra. Fish are descaled. Herbs are chopped. Molten chocolate is coaxed across marble. The cooking is ingredient led. Pretty Italian herb leaves with \u201cthe taste of capers … might work in a battuta or with a fish\u201d. <\/p>\n

Everything, from the placement of tablemats to the grazing habits of cattle destined for the table, is considered in exact detail. <\/p>\n

What emerges is not a portrait not only of a craft but also of a hive. The labour that sustains fine dining, the cost of perfection, and the weight of legacy underscore every lengthy conversation about wine or crayfish. Wiseman has made films about bureaucracies, city halls and cabarets, but here the institution is pleasure itself. It\u2019s a feast that will leave many viewers ravenous. <\/p>\n

In cinemas from Friday, January 2nd; at Queen\u2019s Film Theatre, in Belfast, from Friday, January 9th<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Menu-Plaisir: Les Troisgros \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d8 Director: Frederick Wiseman Cert: None Genre: Documentary Starring: Marie-Pierre Troisgros,…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":261268,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[75],"tags":[18,117,2220,19,17,22906],"class_list":{"0":"post-261267","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-entertainment","8":"tag-eire","9":"tag-entertainment","10":"tag-france","11":"tag-ie","12":"tag-ireland","13":"tag-michelin"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@ie\/115818686268707000","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261267","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=261267"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261267\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/261268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=261267"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=261267"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=261267"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}