{"id":472573,"date":"2026-05-07T07:26:14","date_gmt":"2026-05-07T07:26:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/472573\/"},"modified":"2026-05-07T07:26:14","modified_gmt":"2026-05-07T07:26:14","slug":"ela-review-a-restaurant-offering-super-value-and-tasty-dishes-in-the-heart-of-ranelagh-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/472573\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00c9la review: A restaurant offering super value and tasty dishes in the heart of Ranelagh \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>\u00c9la<\/strong> <\/p>\n<p><strong class=\"star\">\ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d7<\/strong> <\/p>\n<p><strong>Address:<\/strong> 11 Chelmsford Lane, Ranelagh, Dublin 6, D06 KX84<\/p>\n<p><strong>Telephone:<\/strong> 01 406 2034<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cuisine:<\/strong> Indian<\/p>\n<p><strong>Website:<\/strong> <a class=\"c-link\" href=\"https:\/\/elamagic.ie\/\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">https:\/\/elamagic.ie\/Opens in new window<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cost:<\/strong> \u20ac\u20ac<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">My <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/ranelagh\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/ranelagh\/\">Ranelagh<\/a> food aficionado dropped me a note about \u00c9la, a little <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/india\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/tags\/india\/\">Indian<\/a> restaurant where Michie Sushi used to be, she said. It\u2019s down Chelmsford Lane, an easy-to-miss laneway off the busier Sandford Road, making it feel like a secret amid the glitzier restaurants along this stretch.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">While artificial vine leaves trailing down from wooden ceiling slats would not be top of my design priorities, I find myself liking \u00c9la the minute I walk in. It\u2019s a small room \u2013 white linen tablecloths and napkins, glasses polished, cutlery gleaming, low lighting \u2013 with a neat bar area which doubles as a service station. Beyond that, the kitchen is partially visible, pots and pans on the go; it\u2019s not just an assembly job.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Lalit Kumar is the chef-patron of \u00c9la restaurant, which opened last October, and his wife and son help out with the kitchen and service. He grew up in Mandi in Himachal Pradesh and headed to Mumbai at 15 to work in kitchens, working his way across India \u2013 Delhi, Nagpur, Pune \u2013 before moving to Ireland in 2006. He has done the rounds here too: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/life-and-style\/food-and-drink\/jaipur-on-george-s-street-to-close-1.2064583\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/life-and-style\/food-and-drink\/jaipur-on-george-s-street-to-close-1.2064583\">Jaipur on South Great George\u2019s Street<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/life-and-style\/a-dazzling-jewel-in-the-crown-1.894699\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/life-and-style\/a-dazzling-jewel-in-the-crown-1.894699\">Ananda<\/a> in Dundrum, then head chef at Chakra in Greystones, Co Wicklow.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The name \u00c9la comes from the Sanskrit word for cardamom, which is also used across the country. It is elaichi in Hindi, but there\u2019s also a gentle nod to Ireland, with the fada on the \u00c9 a marker of the restaurant\u2019s dual identity.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The menu reflects a career spent moving around, so rather than being anchored to the region where he grew up, the focus is broader, offering choice. Tandoor grills, chaat and sharing boards all feature on the starters, moving to tikka masala, korma, makhan and madras for main courses, which also include some interesting vegetarian dishes, with paneer and lentils.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Malabar fish curry, coconut-based prawn dishes, Kashmiri and Awadhi lamb, plus a full biryani section broaden out the mains.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The wine list is short and predictable \u2013 Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Primitivo \u2013 with four whites, four reds, one ros\u00e9 and two Proseccos, starting at \u20ac30, with glasses \u20ac8 \u2013\u20ac9. I prefer beer with Indian food, so it\u2019s Cobra (\u20ac4.50 a bottle).<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph b-it-article-body__interstitial-link\">[\u00a0<a aria-label=\"Open related story\" class=\"c-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/food\/restaurants\/review\/2025\/05\/16\/jaipur-dalkey-takeaway-review-the-best-takeaway-biryani-weve-ever-eaten\/\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"> Jaipur Dalkey review: The best takeaway biryani we\u2019ve ever eatenOpens in new window<\/a>\u00a0]<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">To get a sense of the tandoori grill, we start with the non-vegetarian board (\u20ac18.95) which includes two pieces each of seekh kebab, Patiala tikka, tiger prawn and Amritsari fish with chutney. Everything comes beautifully charred, the heat bringing a deep seafood richness to the prawn and highlighting the spice in the kebab. The fish is lightly battered and crisped, dressed with a hot green chutney. And the Patiala tikka (from the Punjabi region) has chicken marinated in a creamy sauce made from cashew nuts, yoghurt and fresh cream.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The Malabar fish curry (\u20ac20) revels in a multilayered spicy coconut sauce built on Malabar spices. The tilapia flakes apart nicely in a relatively thin-textured but richly flavoured sauce, driven by curry leaves and a mix of background spices that hit the back of the tongue with a prickle of heat.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Jhinga Jalaali starter composed of Kochin prawns marinated in ground spices and herbs, served with mint chutney. Photograph: Bryan O'Brien\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/AZGNTHHM7JGQLPS5IKLGFZGVOQ.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Jhinga Jalaali starter composed of Kochin prawns marinated in ground spices and herbs, served with mint chutney. Photograph: Bryan O&#8217;Brien <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Nahar lamb shank, slow cooked with caramelised onions and Kashmiri spices from &#xC9;la. Photograph: Bryan O'Brien\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/GG5OELJJPVGEDI3WCT6ON53BAU.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"510\"\/>Nahar lamb shank, slow cooked with caramelised onions and Kashmiri spices from \u00c9la. Photograph: Bryan O&#8217;Brien <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Malai Kofta: cottage cheese dumplings stuffed with nuts finished in a rich tomato-cashew gravy. Photograph: Bryan O'Brien\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/PNBUIRZBLFBA7IPASGKN3HUPTA.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Malai Kofta: cottage cheese dumplings stuffed with nuts finished in a rich tomato-cashew gravy. Photograph: Bryan O&#8217;Brien <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Indian restaurants tend to be reliable places for vegetarians to dine, and \u00c9la is no exception. The malai kofta (\u20ac19.45), cottage cheese dumplings stuffed with nuts and finished in a rich tomato-cashew gravy, are made with house-made paneer using fresh Irish milk. They are quite gorgeous, notably light, with the filling in the paneer coming as a nice surprise. The sauce tastes almost like a butter chicken sauce \u2013 rich, smooth and a little sweet \u2013 complementing the dumplings beautifully. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Sides of garlic naan (\u20ac3.95) and pilau rice (\u20ac3.95) are excellent, the aroma rising from the charred naan, which is glossed with ghee and garlic, while the pilau rice arrives dappled with saffron, the grains separate and distinct, topped with a scattering of fried onions.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph b-it-article-body__interstitial-link\">[\u00a0<a aria-label=\"Open related story\" class=\"c-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/food\/2026\/03\/22\/this-is-my-first-foray-into-business-in-ireland-multicultural-cuisines-of-talbot-street\/\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">\u2018This is my first foray into business in Ireland\u2019: Multicultural cuisines of Talbot StreetOpens in new window<\/a>\u00a0]<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The selection of desserts is designed to appeal widely. We skip the cheesecake and brownie and opt for the daily rotating Indian dessert (\u20ac9.99). I miss its name, but if you think of a doughnut baklava baby, soaked in syrup, you get a sense of it. The three small doughnuts are topped with vanilla ice cream and raspberry syrup.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u00c9la has brought a whole new identity to this compact room with its green, gold and brown palette, warmed by soft pendant light. It is extremely welcoming, helped along by Kumar\u2019s regular visits from the kitchen. It works well for two, but would be great with a group, when you can order across the menu.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Dinner for two with three beers was \u20ac89.79.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><b>The verdict:<\/b> A family-run Indian restaurant with some very tasty dishes<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><b>Food provenance:<\/b> Lamb, Ballymore Prime Irish Meat; chicken, Musgrave (Netherlands, not free-range); vegetables, Keelings<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><b>Vegetarian options:<\/b> Malai kofta, Achari baingan (aubergine), and Punchratan daal<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><b>Wheelchair access:<\/b> Accessible room with no accessible toilet <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \"><b>Music<\/b>: Classic instrumental <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Chef-patron Lalit Kumar, his wife Suman Devi and son Akash Kumar at work in &#xC9;la. Photograph: Bryan O'Brien\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/LHPI5UICYBHDFJD7OQXHLIY5T4.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"849\"\/>Chef-patron Lalit Kumar, his wife Suman Devi and son Akash Kumar at work in \u00c9la. Photograph: Bryan O&#8217;Brien <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u00c9la \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d7 Address: 11 Chelmsford Lane, Ranelagh, Dublin 6, D06 KX84 Telephone: 01 406&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":472574,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[75],"tags":[7924,18,117,19,387,17,361,63497,5281,33646,946],"class_list":{"0":"post-472573","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-entertainment","8":"tag-dundrum","9":"tag-eire","10":"tag-entertainment","11":"tag-ie","12":"tag-india","13":"tag-ireland","14":"tag-magazine","15":"tag-ranelagh","16":"tag-restaurant","17":"tag-restaurant-reviews","18":"tag-wicklow"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@ie\/116532110207395937","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472573","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=472573"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472573\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/472574"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=472573"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=472573"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=472573"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}