If a culture-maxxing trip to Japan is on your agenda, you’re probably planning to hit ever-popular Kyoto, the country’s best-known cultural hub. But there’s another city that, like Kyoto, was largely spared World War II bombs, leaving it resplendent with geisha teahouses and samurai districts straight out of an Akira Kurosawa epic — all without streets frustratingly jammed with tourists. Kanazawa offers a more relaxed experience, allowing you to immerse yourself in centuries of history without getting jostled by selfie sticks.
Located on the central-west coast of Honshu Island by the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa flourished under the Maeda samurai clan that ruled this domain from 1583 to 1869. These smashingly wealthy feudal lords invested heavily in the arts, particularly Noh theater and tea ceremonies. Today, Kanazawa remains a global center of culture, and it produces a range of unique textiles and crafts, including 99 of Japan’s gold leaf. It was designated a UNESCO City of Crafts and Folk Art for its intricately dyed silk, refined lacquerware, and vivid colored porcelain, too.
This itinerary takes you through Kanazawa’s castle gardens, vintage streetwear shops, and a ninja temple. The city also makes a great hopping off point for a drive through the rugged foothills of the Japanese Alps to ancient Shirakawa-go, where you can stay in one of the village’s charming thatch-roofed farmhouses, and the White Road beyond, which offers drivers incredible views of mountains, waterfalls, and primeval forest on the way to Hakusan National Park.
Who I am: I’m La Carmina, an award-winning journalist, TV presenter, and creator specializing in Japan. I’ve written several books and freelance about travel, culture and design for National Geographic, Architectural Digest, and other publications. You can follow my offbeat, creative adventures around Japan and other countries on La Carmina Blog and @LaCarmina Instagram.