Nagoya is a lot like Chicago or Detroit. Perched in the middle of Japan, the city of 2 million has broad shoulders and earthy realness. Like its spiritual American siblings, it’s an industrial hub, especially for car manufacturers. And also like America’s Midwest cities, it’s often written off by visitors drawn to Tokyo’s dizzying scale or Kyoto’s elegant veneer.
But Nagoya has lots to offer. Centuries-old castles and shrines stand alongside monuments of modern industry, connected by roads that are wide and clean, making it perfect for families, larger groups, and road trippers who want to tack on a stop while touring the country. It’s the home of Ghibli Park, the theme park built around the famous animated worlds and stories of Studio Ghibli, as well as a range of museums. Local food is deeply seasoned with punchy red miso, kissaten (coffee houses) are everywhere, and breakfast is often complimentary at local spots, making for a warm welcome to any visitor.
Who I am: I’m Nina Li Coomes, a Japanese and American writer who has called Nagoya one of her homes since 1993. I write about culture writ large — everything from film, to television, to food. These days, I return to Nagoya at least once a year with my husband and two young children in tow.