Arthur in Hanoi (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
When Arthur was four, I found myself as a single mom and instead of letting life crush me, I wrote a bucket list. I wasn’t going to let the curveball that life had thrown stop me from realizing our dreams. Instead, I decided that I would find a way. Our first adventure was funded by selling everything we didn’t need that was laying around the house, helping other people sell things they didn’t need and working extra hours. I made a grid and Arthur colored in a box every time we made £5…soon we were on a plane to the Maldives. That’s where it all started – we were inspired to explore our incredible world.
Thirteen years later, and with a bucket list that had a whole load of ticks on it, it was time for Southeast Asia and Vietnam. This was our biggest adventure so far and the most enriching experience for us both. Planning with someone who knew a whole lot more than I did was almost as exciting as the adventure itself. With incredible attention to detail and a completely personalized itinerary, we were off. Our journey began in Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi. This city took us completely by surprise with its charm, warmth and unique organized chaos that we hadn’t experienced anywhere else. We quickly learned the art of crossing the road – keep walking, trusting that the buzz of beeping Vespas will move around you; they are professionals at this. We soaked up scenes of everyday life: local people sitting on little plastic stools sharing a meal together (often pho) or playing a card game. Pedal bikes wheeling past overloaded with things to sell, from fruit and vegetables to anything else you can think of, including a kitchen sink! Money changed hands and a smile is exchanged. Whole families balanced on motorbikes, little ones with no helmets or even shoes, journeyed to and from school. This was their life, but for us…another world.
Hanoi (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hanoi (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hanoi (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hanoi (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
We journeyed southwest towards our next stop, Ninh Binh and on the way visited the village of Quang Phu Cau where the centuries old craft of incense making was the life of a whole community; everyone playing their part. We watched with interest as villagers went about their workday, splitting and trimming bamboo, laying them out to dry in the sun, dying sticks, rolling incense paste and creating beautiful bundled, colorful displays to charm the passing tourists. They hardly noticed us as they went about their work. It was like we were peeping through a window into another life while also appreciating the toll it takes on the villagers’ health – a life inhaling dust and powder.
(Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
(Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
(Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
(Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
In total contrast to the hustle and bustle of Vietnam’s capital was our next stop; Ninh Binh. ‘Ha Long Bay on land’ as it is also known, threw us into complete awe as Arthur and I marveled at the drama of this landscape. Limestone karsts towering either side of rivers and rice fields. A view that took our breath away after a five hundred step climb up Dragon Mountain. This was a view that can’t be captured in words or a photograph; you just have to be there.
The river is at the heart of life in Tam Coc. Boat rowers steer using their feet – a beautiful thing to watch. Despite the many tourists there is a real sense of peace and calm on the river as goods are transported, buffalo graze, the occasional cone hat appears from the middle of a rice field and goats snooze on shady, rocky mountain sides. Arthur and I ventured out early one morning to catch a glimpse of local people setting about their daily routines. Mothers washing clothes in the river and others preparing their boats for a busy day ahead. Meandering along the river was a real highlight of our trip as we took in the beauty of this place, paddling peacefully through rice fields and echoing caves.
Ninh Binh (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Ninh Binh (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Ninh Binh (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Ninh Binh (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Having spent three days exploring Ninh Binh on foot, bike and boat we set off for Ha Long Bay – on water. It was easy to see why this natural wonder of the world is renowned for its beauty. ‘Wonder’ is the very definition of this dramatic landscape. We felt like we were in a James Bond movie as we sailed through what can only be described as one of nature’s miracles. The peace only disturbed by locals, trying to make a living as they encourage you to buy snacks and wine from their little rowing boats. Arthur and I spent three days absorbing this incredible corner of the world. We kayaked, cycled at Cat Ba Island and visited a pearl village. We learned so much here and even though the sun didn’t shine for us, its beauty was almost more mystical in the misty cloud and shades of grey.
Ha Long Bay (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Having been spoilt by air-conditioned, chauffeur driven cars with outstanding expert guides, it was time for some proper adventuring next; a sleeper train from Hanoi to Hue. Being rocked to sleep by the movement of the chugging train to the sound of Max Richter’s ‘On the Nature of Daylight’ on my headphones, then waking at 5am to peep through the curtain to watch the sun rising over workers already busy in their rice fields -well, it doesn’t get much better than that.
Train street (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Traveling by train (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Traveling by train (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hue (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hue (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
I will always remember our day in Hue as being intensely hot and full of culture. This is what you’re meant to do when you travel to the other side of the world; absorb the country’s history. So, we did – armed with a fan, sunhat and plenty of water we walked in the footsteps of emperors, exploring ancient pagodas, tombs and palaces we listened to ancient tales of Vietnamese emperors; stories of lives so contrasting to what we know and so rich in culture and tradition.
Our journey from Hue to Hoi An took us back in time as we stood at the Hải Vân Pass, the famous site of a battle between Vietnam and France. You could almost close your eyes and hear the brave soldiers fighting to defend their beautiful country. Another glimpse into real life came at Lăng Cô Lagoon where we watched local fishing folk collecting oysters in the shallow water while tiny boats floated on the lagoon in the heat of the midday sun.
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An is a difficult place to describe – I thought I was prepared for it having spent hours researching online, talking to our wonderful travel expert, reading travel guides and looking at photographs taken by people like me. I just don’t think you can prepare for this special place. Once you get past the fact that, like you, everyone wants to be there, Hoi An old town reveals itself slowly and beautifully. The mix of French and Chinese architecture gives the town its charm with rusty red and yellow washed walls and blue wooden shutters. Tourists wander the lantern filled streets, enticed by the offer of candlelit boat rides as locals persuade you to buy a lantern to float on the river. Musicians strum guitars and sing to entertain as you wander through quieter narrow alleyways that unless you really look, you would pass without noticing. Here, there is no traffic, just a flow of people who are all there to absorb something quite special.
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Hoi An (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Being on holiday isn’t about waking up to an early morning alarm but if you can bring yourself to do it, this is how you see a very different Hoi An. This is a time that belongs to its people. A time to witness the details of these beautiful people, who seem so proud to share their town as they sweep the street, set up their shops or market stalls and quietly prepare for another busy day.
Hoi An is a place famous for its tailors. This part was Arthur’s dream. It was my turn to sit back and watch as my six-foot-two, 17-year-old towered above the friendly tailors of Ms. Tam Tam’s ‘Blue’ tailor shop, as they measured him for a three-piece suit. Slightly overwhelmed by the fabric choice, Arthur chose a very smart grey for the suit and pink cotton for his shirt. After two impressively efficient fittings in the space of 24 hours, Arthur’s finished suit was delivered to our hotel. The look of sheer pride and joy on Arthur’s face was enough to remind me of why our adventures are what life is about. This was something we will never forget.
(Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
We ended our journey with two nights at a rather luxurious hotel on the beach, just twenty minutes from Hoi An’s old town. This trip had changed us and what we really craved was one last glimpse into real life. We enjoyed the breakfast buffet, the cool pool water that reflected the palm trees and the lazy sun loungers, but we were pulled towards something different. Another early 5am alarm and we were on the beach, once again soaking up the real stuff – life that happens before the tourists mingle with it. The beach belonged to the locals. The famous round coconut boats lay scattered along the beach resting after their night’s work, where lamps had glowed in the darkness as fishermen searched for squid and shoals of fish. Just like at the incense village, everyone played their part. Men and their sons hauled in their catch from the night’s fishing while the women gather around blue baskets and metal scales, weighing the catch to sell at market. In the evenings the beach changed character again. Families gathered to eat together while children raced in and out of the sea and jumped off rocks. Fathers waded into the shallows with young sons, teaching them how to search for shellfish as the waves gently rolled in and out. Arthur and I sat and took it all in, trying to make friends with the tiny crabs that scuttled across the sand before vanishing again beneath the sand. With a deep breath we absorbed the last of what had been the most special adventure of our lives. The sun slid away, leaving the silhouette of the palm trees against an orange sky. Arthur and I left Vietnam with a big tick on our bucket list, incredibly grateful and changed hearts, with memories made together for a lifetime.
What struck me the most as I captured Vietnamese life through my lens, was what a privilege it was to witness, not only the beauty of this place and its landscapes but more, the beauty of its people; their history – a story full of pain and struggle yet their smiles only spoke of hope and love.
About the Author
Caroline & Arthur (Photo by Caroline Palmer/See Asia Differently)
Caroline, a professional photographer, and her son Arthur, a passionate young foodie, explored Asia with See Asia Differently, whose expert planning, deep regional knowledge, and thoughtful approach to meaningful travel shaped every step of their journey. Travelling as a single mum, Caroline felt completely safe knowing Peter’s team on the ground understood the region inside out; allowing her to relax, enjoy, and fully immerse herself in the experience. She highly recommends See Asia Differently for their exceptional service and the way they turn every trip into a memorable and enriching adventure.
Peter has arranged numerous holidays for military families, couples, and solo travellers, including military nurses, and has even coordinated a destination wedding in Siem Reap for a military couple based in Guam. His long-standing experience supporting service members ensures every journey is seamless, safe, and tailored with care.